bought the car with all kinds of mods and a fair to midland uprev tune. Car came with the haltech but no one ever put it in(guessing they lacked tuning experience with it)

I have finally worked out a lot of the kinks in the engine and am ready to plug in the haltech which I am familiar with on other platforms but not as much here. With DSMs that I have been tuning we have a strong community of people that help each other out and was hoping to find that here.

 

Is the is the Standalone? I think it is. All things considered Haltech isnt that hard to learn and the tuning language is the universal.

do you have specific questions?

 

it is the standalone. I dont think tuning will be an issue either.

One question I do have is about using the 5v input for wideband until i splurge for the dual controller. Does it read ok? On all DSM stuff as long as you get your voltages input correctly it works just fine.

Also if trying to save money can I leave my wideband that is controlling my gauge on 1 bank and the just a single on the other?

I wish haltech could use our 4.2 O2 sensors but theyve already told me they wont read at least in boost

 

I'm only mildly experienced with Haltech, Link, and a humming-birds beek's worth of Uprev. But I think Haltech's user interface is like a Mac OS while Link's is more like Windows. IMO - haltechs is laid out simpler and easier to learn. It took me a while to really understand how the Link was laid out. I havent seen Haltech's Elite software but I think Link's G4+ standalone is better than Haltech Platinum Standalone (I should do a comparison thread).

The best thing you can do is get in the software and start using it. Go through all your settings-menu and learn everything that in those menus. Then start going through all your tuning tables and understand how they interact with each other.

I think as long as your widebands are giving a calibrated .5v to 4.5v signal than you can feed the haltech that signal and it 'should' read it fine. I use my AEM UEGOs as my wideband controller. The UEGO's send a .5v to 4.5v analog signal to the Link for wideband control.

why are the 4.2 widebands incompatible with the Haltech?

dont try to save money ... especially with wideband control...save up and do it right...penny-wise / pound-foolish.

If I were to only run a single controller I would put it at the merge but I would run dual widebands especially seeing how the VQ has disproportionate intake charge flow.

 

Im very familiar with it. Actually built my base maps already 😀. Even boost protection!

I talked directly with Matt at haltech and their response was
"It wont read the OEM 4.2 widebands. The kit was originally developed on the earlier models with narrow bands."

Ill go for the duals but wondered if my current one can hold me over. Itching to have control over my ecu

 

Couple of my tables if youre interested. Still need to get it on the dyno and play.... hopefully covid cooperates

 

A stripper once told me: 'lots of pennies on that table' … and that's what I feel about your ign-timing map

go get tuned and definitely don't listen to a single thing I say - but here are my two timing maps for a +/-15psi tune

 

Ill always listen to you brother! These are just bases I built before getting on the dyno. The cars tell us what they want once there!


Btw this is the stuff I love to see!

 

Whats the compression ratio of the engines for the featured maps?

 

I'm pretty sure those are both mine and I'm 9.1 : 1 pushing high-teens boost levels...

 

ok thanks, overlooked where you said they were yours previously, is there a build thread for your setup, or can you list the engine specs?
How much power are you making at that boost?
Sorry for being so inquisitive, however most folk are seemingly secretive with their maps and what not here.

 

I know the Link map is but I cant remember if that haltech map is canned or not...I dont really care if anyone copies my maps...they're so specific to my build that anyone using them for their own is setting themselves up for failure or setting themselves up for leaving gobs of power on the table.

Last I dyno'd I was 568hp on 17psi - I dont mind answering questions. You saw my build thread so dont hesitate to ask more over there as they come up.

I appreciate your insight on the Haltech stuff -

 

I'm running twin gtx3076r Turbos, 8.5 compression and Kelford 272's. Car made ~530 at 12psi (was running 100 octane and direct methanol injection at the time, just started tuning so was being extra safe), on 87 octane and methanol injection I made 520 on 15psi. I'm running approximately ~ 4 to 6 degrees more timing than you throughout most of my powerband. Recently I ran into some complications with the nozzles on the direct methanol injection and so I've moved to a singular jet. Suspect I'll have to retune.

 

assuming on a DE engine?

Yea - my maps are pretty safe and I know there is more on the table. Also we can only get 91octane here so gotta advance the timing gingerly!

 

You're lucky, we've ~87 octane at the pump, hence the direct methanol setup.

 

valid point … direct meth injection? Where exactly are you injecting?

 

Nozzles were placed under the lower collector on each runner, had issues with jetting and so I abandoned the direct injection setup a couple weeks ago. I'm currently running Ras Gas race fuel concentrate to bump the octane to ~ 91 and then running a staged AEM 500cc and 250cc nozzles respectfully. Havent had an opportunity to re-dyno, however Im see no increases in knock values, I did decrease timing by about 2 to 3 degrees in boost though.

 

Any thought to placing nozzles pre-MAF, pre-Intercooler, or even pre-Blower?

I think running them that close to the valves is foolish as you dont give the water/meth enough time to atomize into the air charge and you are not seeing the benefit of cooler air across your MAF (assuming you're using an MAF). Also running them through the blower keeps the blower cooler but methanol isnt good for steel (so, use your discretion).

 

I'm was running a map sensor and AIT sensor with an additional nozzle pre throttle body, the smaller nozzles allowed for sufficient atomization(however they also seemed to clog faster, resulting in spray patterns not being uniform and defeating the entire point of direct injection), air intake temps were fine and the system provided adequate improvements in octane.

As for pre intercooler and pre turbo, Ill likely going to keep jets post intercooler for simplicity.