Breaker bar with someone holding the other side of bolt with a wrench underneath car. Came off really easy.

 

^
or breaker bar until you hear and feel the snap . At least it taught me to use anti-sieze for my re-install.

ncdoc

 

Sounds good. Nice gains.

 

wow - i really like how that sounds.

a.) that's a crap load of smoke that comes out, but when i plan on racing in a year or so - i guess it won't be a big deal.

b.) for the CEL light, does someone make a false o2 sensor so that it doesn't throw a code? or do our cars have o2 sensors? i'm used to the ls1/lt1 world.

other than that - thanks for the vids!

 

^^
If you get test pipes for the 07's, there will be no way to trick the O2 sensors.

What you can try is some non foulers and stick some steel wool in them. It should last you a couple thousand miles before the little bastard comes back on. Then you would have to reset the ECU again.

 

thanks for posting up vids, now i dont have to... we need one of WOT though, mine sounds EXACTLY the same (not like i was expecting any differences or anything)

 

how did you get the drivers side top bolt out? there isnt enough clearence for a breaker bar and that thing is on there really thight. I wonder if taking the steering shaft would help?

 

I can't see the video

 

AH i just installed mine. ill get a video tomorrow morning

 

Alright, i drove it for 20 miles this morning. Heres what i think:

They definitely sound great. I get a lot of drone around 2.7K rpm. That is when the car is under load not in neutral. The drone is, however, mostly felt inside the car. Outside, you cant hear it as much. Also, when the rpm fall after accelerating and it hits around 1.6, there is significant vibration noises.
Im going to try getting thicker bolts and tightening them more to see if that gets rid of it. The stock header bolts were so rusted and crappy, that i had to use the new bolts that came with the pipes up there. I found some smaller bolts laying around and used them on the y-pipe. im almost certain that is where the loud vibration sound is coming from (vibration of the smaller bolts). I really hope it is the vibration because that is a LOT of rasp for my taste if it isn't the small bolts.

As for power, the car definitely revs smoother and faster. I can also feel a slight difference at WOT. The car picks up quicker and seems to have increased throttle response. that isn't as true for low rpm. I haven't decided whats going on there yet.

And yes, the car is running lean. I don't think its enough to be worried about.
At a cold start, there is a lot of white smoke that is emitted. After the car warms up that goes away. The smell doesn't. When stopped at a light or such, the smell reaches the car if the windows are down. I personally love the smell

CEL: 20 miles so far and no CEL. It is bound to come on though. i mean if i was a CEL and i smelled that smell the whole time id come on too. Tonight, Im going up to baltimore and i have to drive a total of around 100 miles so ill let you know about CEL.

Installation notes:
The driver side top bolt was a pain. At one point i thought i was going give up It was so rusted and so tight that we had to use a huge breaker bar. The best way to reach it, i found out, is to use a 3/8" drive extension (the body thickness is thin enough to reach around the steering shaft) and a short 14mm socket. I used a 1/2-3/4 converter on the breaker bar and used PLENTY of extensions to easily reach the bolt. I took the driver side intake out and went in from there. The bolt is directly under there and that is the best place to reach it from. Its best to have someone under the car to position the socket and hold it in place. Then give the breaker bar power and it comes loose. Oh and i bathed it with penetrative liquid wrench. The other bolts weren't that bad. They are relatively easier to reach. Be patient with that bolt. And for everybody that helped me through it, i thank you.


I will post up vids as soon as i get a chance to take some. it should be sometime this week.

 

Nice gains and sound. I will be looking into this.

I don't know exactly the location of the bolts, but I'm just offering something that really helps with stuck/rusted bolts. This is a neat trick my buddy showed me. Take a torch and heat up the bolt for like 30-60 secs. Rusted bolts are hard to turn because there is rust where the threads meet (even though sometimes you can't see it), thereby interfering with the "fit". Heating the bolt causes the nut and bolt to expand and give it some more room. Be careful though, the parts will be extremely hot and this technique should only be used in locations where the heat/flame won't damage other stuff. I've used this method fairly often on exhaust parts. Hope this helps.

 

why not use some PB blaster

 

i just didnt have any at the time.

 

PB blaster is teh **** and it didn't work on my install...i soaked everything before i started, and it still was a pita.

 

If you have some hydrogen peroxide around the house you can use that to loosen bolts. Be careful not to get it in your eyes as it will blind you!! If you can get it the 35% stuff works best... try calling local health food stores and asking for OW&C brand 35% food grade hydrogen peroxide.

Hope it helps. Oh and the strong stuff will burn your skin if you get it on there...

Peace,
```

 

Here are the dyno results from my test pipes:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/345668-07-hr-aam-test-pipes-dyno-vids.html

 

CEL can be fixed with an o2 simulator

 

more info please ^^

 

If i use for 5AT is good or not

please recomment

Thanks a lot

 

i would imagine so.