Alberto

iTrader: (14)

This has to do with my rear suspenion only...kinda long but PLEASE READ if you think you can help.

Quick history-I have JIC FLT-A2 coilovers, along with some adjustable camber/traction rods. Well about 1 month ago, I was lowered about 2-2 1/4", my wheels were tucked, it looked great. Unfortunately even with the rods, my rear camber was @ neg 2.3 degrees(not to bad compared to 4.2 degrees b4 alignment), Ive never had a problem with my rear toe. My drivers side traction arm, BROKE while driving. Too make a long story short, I got some replacement bars. My car sat with Id say negative 5 degrees camber(on the drivers side rear) for 1 week, while I awaited the new rods.

While I waited I decided to raise the car almost 1"-so that I could get my rear camber back into spec-Ive been through 5 sets of rear tires in 43K miles). After raising it, the drivers side still looked lower cuz the extreme camber, like it was sagging.

The news rods were installed and a got a 4 wheel alignment done. Results for the rear--> toe was good on both sides. Camber on drivers side was negative 1.5 degrees, passenger side was negative 2.7 degrees !!! I have been trying to figure out why my camber is so bad on that side.

I took my springs out AGAIN, and adjusted them perfectly with the perches off the car. I set the shock preload identical on both rears as well. Well I raised my car a little more again, and when I initially put the car on the ground the camber looks better, and the ride height looks good. Then I take it for a spin, and my drivers side rear sags (1/2-3/4" lower than pass side). I also noticed that the pass side rear (which is ok) the traction arm is adjusted pretty long. On the drivers side its all the way short.

My question is since my car is not lowered all that extremely any more, could I just run both factory toe rods, and get an alignment done with the adjustable camber arms?? Ive seen some people on here do that with success. My alignment guy thinks that the subframe that the one side of the camber arm bolts too is bent slightly(therefore casuing difference in camber) because of the toe rod breaking on that side, or that something else has bent slightly because of the toe rod breaking.

Anybody have any ideas? Suggestions? Input? This car is driving me crazy now, and my drivers side rear looks horrible with all the negative camber and sitting lower. Thanks in advance to anybody that read this....

zwindsor

iTrader: (6)

Your's sounds like mine except that it's my drivers side that has more negative then the right (-1 deg front and rear difference). No accidents. Even had a body shop do a chassis alignment check and they couldn't find anything wrong.

Mine is lowered and I've got the adjustable camber and toe rods in the rear (front to come) and I still can't get the 2 sides matched.

Not sure why you would sag more on one side more then the other with the JIC's adjusted the same.

It sounds like they adjusted your car so that the toe was correct which could account for the camber being off. As to why the camber rods are so different it's possible that the eccentric bolt that is used for stock adjustment could be in opposite settings therefore they used the adjustable rods to compensate.

You will have to ask them what they did during the alignment. It's possible they can get the camber right but then the toe is way off (that's what happens to me) so they went with the least wearing position (bad toe will wear a tire faster then bad camber).

Yes you can use the stock toe/traction arms but there is no guarantee you'll be able to get the camber within spec.

I started with just the adjustable camber rods. When the couldn't get the toe to spec I added the adjustable traction rods which solved that but increased the camber again. From what I've learned you need to extend the range of adjustment for the toe from the lower control arm not from the traction rod. This is why people are buying the SPC eccentric bolts.

Don't know if this helped or confused you.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

I didnt know the name of that bolt, but you mentioned it. The eccentric bolt on the passenger side is all the way in toward the center of the car(giving me more positive camber), whereas on the drivers side its all the way out (toward the outside of the car-with a shorter camber arm). I adjusted it in to the same position as the passenger side. I do want them to try to keep this here and try the alignment like that. Your right he set it for toe to be in spec instead of camber because its the worse of the two (toe). Im just upset that in the past with my car lower I had 2.3 degrees camber, andnow that I sit higher I have 2.7 on the drivers side. And I still dont know why its sagging. What Im gonna try is to swap rear springs from side to side and see if the sagging moves to the passenger side---has anybody had any problems with JIC springs sagging?? Thanks for the input.

EDIT-do you have any moe info on the SPC eccentric bolts?? Thanks.

zwindsor

iTrader: (6)

Here's a link to the SPC bolts.

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.HTML


Personally I'm going to get some eccentric bushings from K-mac so that you don't have to enlarge the bolt hole. Before I order I'm waiting for them to complete their new A-arms so I can combine my order.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the info, I just ordered some eccentic bolts from www.iapdirect.com , I wish I would have known about the KMAC bushing's, I probobly would have ordered those.

konspec

iTrader: (4)

post your results I'm having the same problem. hopefully these things will fix the alignment. I've measured and remeasured shock preload and spring perches in the rear yet drivers side always sit a little lower