Here is a pic of Rocketdog's sweet G coupe lowered on some Tanabe coilovers, he wanted me to post the pic for him. Rocketdog, if you have more pics send them to me....car looks MUCH better with those wheels now that it is lowered.

 

nice

 

Looks real clean!!!!!

 

Thanks Alberto. Ya, with the aggressive offsets they just don't look right until you lower a little, it tucks the tires in a bit and gives it "the look". I'll send ya a couple more pics soon as I take a couple of decent ones.

 

Looks good!!! Which tanabe set-up did you use???

 

I went with Tanabe's Sustec Pro-SOC TYP-II. The type IIs don't have the helper spring. I was told the type IIs are more linear. I noticed they have come down in price since I bought them.

 

When did you get yours? I got some a few months ago as well

 

I got them on a couple of month ago. I'm still "tweaking" them a bit. The left front needs to come down about .12 and the left rear needs to come up about .12. I know i'm picky. The right side of the car came stock about .2 higher than the left. Did you notice anything like that? At least with coil overs you can adjust the height until your happy. Also, did you go with larger toe bolts to get your alignment in specs? If so how did that work out?

 

Nice setup.
What size tire/wheel are u using...any rubbing now that you've lowered?

 

I run Kinetix camber/traction arms and still couldnt get my rear aligned, so to that I added www.iapdirect.com 's eccentric toe/camber bolts and that fixed it. I recommend you do their camber arms/toe bolt combo, should be all you need.

 

yea doesnt spc make a pretty good one?

 

The normal offset for "aggressive" LE37s or TE37s. 9.5 F, 10.5 R both +22. 255x35x 19 F, 285x35x19 R. The rear rubbed even without lowering because the rear lips are about .75 wide at the top. I removed the rear tire/rims, masked, trimmed the lips approx .3 up to the spot welds, re-masked, primed and painted. I even had my local auto paint store mix me up a batch of stock color in a spray can. Alberto "rolled" his rear lips with a rolling machine and it worked well for him. The fronts are no problem.

 

Great combo ...

But the weather makes the combo colors look dull. Would look great in the sunlight

 

Yeah they wernt perfectly set thats for sure.... since most of my fun rides are solo ones I adjusted/balanced her for my weight in the drivers seat.... Yes I had to use larger toe bolts as well... I've got a great suspension tuner (my neighbour races his GT3) so I got his guy to set me up!!! Its all about the connections you have!!!
Cheers, and good luck with your G35C!
Louis

 

I'm running the JIC rear camber and traction arms and Cusco front A-arms. I was "gun shy" to grind the toe holes and use the larger toe bolts. I guess that's the only way to get the toe right? Any opinions on having to grind?

 

It was a gloomy day. Pictures never give the LE37s justice, they look so much better in real life.

 

Its no big deal grinding away. I have a suspenion guy that sets up local road course racers do it, so I had him do it and re-align my car. Ive had no problems with it, and my alignment is staying put. With the Kinetix arms Ive had the alignment go bad after a few months of driving 2X and 1X because the traction rod broke on my while driving down the highway. Whats your rear camber like now? Im at -2.1 camber in rear, -2 in front, car handles like crazy, and doesnt kill tires at a rapid rate like when I was between -2.9 through -4.2 degrees camber

Yes thats what I linked him to, www.iapdirect.com sells them....

 

-1 degrees camber front left and right. -1.9 left rear and -1.3 right rear. Any more negative camber on the right rear causes the toe to move way out. That's why I need the larger toe bolts to make it "perfect".

 

Ahh ic, I would def try to make the rear camber a lot more even.

 

sorry to butt in but you guys remember the stock camber numbers?