Track wheel specs (search doesn't work)
Originally Posted by Armitage
I don't think understeer with RWD is too bad because you can always correct it with a bit of throttle, at least thats my understanding. I don't mind the bit of understeer when auto-xing, but I haven't driven it neutrally yet either.
Ok, i'm either getting Enkei RPO3's or RPF1's. I like the look of the RP03's best. bit the RPF1's are significantly lighter. If my stock rims are around 24lbs a piece, I could save ~30lbs going with RPF1s. And from a thread I was browsing 1lb of unsprung weight is like 8lbs of static weight. So that's a weight savings of 240 lbs...which would affect acceleration significantly I would think.
I'm definitely going with 17s.
So, assuming I go with one of these two sets, and reiterating my question before to nano, should I get the same width rims all the way around?
Because I can obviously set a slight stagger with the tires on equal width rims (I want a little understeer, it's a RWD car).
If not, then why would you recommend staggered rim widths?
I'll decide on tires after we get this sorted out
I'm definitely going with 17s.
So, assuming I go with one of these two sets, and reiterating my question before to nano, should I get the same width rims all the way around?
Because I can obviously set a slight stagger with the tires on equal width rims (I want a little understeer, it's a RWD car).
If not, then why would you recommend staggered rim widths?
I'll decide on tires after we get this sorted out
The performance difference on the street is not the end of the world between 17" and 18", and street tire choice is abundant in 18". The reason why 17" wheels are a track favourite is because of the competition tire choice and the slight performance advantage... But keep in mind that if you go 17", you will most likely end up with an overall smaller diameter than stock. Also, some 17" wheels have brake clearance issues if you have Brembo brakes(or plan on going with a BBK later on).
If it's only for the street, you can comfortably go with 18" wheels with a slight stagger front/rear.
If you REALLY want to go all-out performance without compromises, go for 17" with a slight stagger front rear(something like 255 front / 275 rear).
equal size rims and tires are more of an auto-X thing.
If it's only for the street I'd go with something like this with the ENKEI, (these are the offsets I know ..there are other possible combos)
Rp03
18x8.5 + 30
18x9 +18
Rpf1
18x8.5 + 30
18x9.5 +15
If it's only for the street, you can comfortably go with 18" wheels with a slight stagger front/rear.
If you REALLY want to go all-out performance without compromises, go for 17" with a slight stagger front rear(something like 255 front / 275 rear).
equal size rims and tires are more of an auto-X thing.
If it's only for the street I'd go with something like this with the ENKEI, (these are the offsets I know ..there are other possible combos)
Rp03
18x8.5 + 30
18x9 +18
Rpf1
18x8.5 + 30
18x9.5 +15
Last edited by Nano; Apr 9, 2006 at 06:42 AM.
It's not only going to be for the street. And the 17" Enkei rpf1s are SOOO light.
So say I go with the 255F/275R like you said, what rim widths would you go with?
Still 8.5F/9.5R like on the street setup?
So say I go with the 255F/275R like you said, what rim widths would you go with?
Still 8.5F/9.5R like on the street setup?
Originally Posted by Kolia
Isn't +15 on the rear a bit aggressive if we're going to run 275 tires?
These are 275/40R17 rear tires on a +30mm rim. Suspension is OEM.
Hello fender gap!
These are 275/40R17 rear tires on a +30mm rim. Suspension is OEM.
Hello fender gap!
Are those 5zigen wheels btw? I was thinking about getting them, but the sizes I was looking at weren't as light as I previously thought. Those rpf1s are uber light.
Last edited by phile; Apr 9, 2006 at 09:14 AM.
Originally Posted by Kolia
Isn't +15 on the rear a bit aggressive if we're going to run 275 tires?
9.5+15 SHOULD fit without issues(don't take my word for it though). I run a 9.5 +25 and still have quite some room (atleast 10mm). The pictures are missleading as when suspension gets loaded the wheels retracts a lot(camber). In anycase, I would rather have my fender rolled in worsts case scenario, than run huge spacers. Some people run much more aggressive offsets. (research to make sure)
Note that ENKEI japan makes a 9.5 +22 offset RPF1 that would be perfect. I am not sure if it's possible to get them in US.
Last edited by Nano; Apr 9, 2006 at 10:07 AM.
Originally Posted by phile
Isn't the factory offset +33? So with a +15 offset, the wheel would just be a little more concave relative to a +33 right? Why would that be more aggressive?
Are those 5zigen wheels btw? I was thinking about getting them, but the sizes I was looking at weren't as light as I previously thought. Those rpf1s are uber light.
Are those 5zigen wheels btw? I was thinking about getting them, but the sizes I was looking at weren't as light as I previously thought. Those rpf1s are uber light.
A +30mm offset will move the rim centerline inboard 30mm from the rotors face. So a +15mm wheel offset will move the center line of the rim 15mm outboard compared to the OEM wheels.
Yes, these are 5Zigens.
Inexpensive light wheels are usually brittle. Be careful if you run low profile tires not to bend them.
Cool, thanks guys. I'm going for 17" Rpf1s 8.5F, 9.5R, I'm going to do a little research to make sure the offsets are right. Then i'm going to get some michelin pilot sport PS2s. I read some thread on sidewall flex, which is a pretty important compoent to the while suspension mix. 255F/275 rear sounds good...but should I go with 45s or 40 for the sidewall ratios?
For 17s - 8.5" fronts - offsets 30 - Should fit. Not sur of the caliper clearance though?
9.5" rears - only comes in 38 offset - Might be tight a bit on the inside if you plan on running 275
9.5" rears - only comes in 38 offset - Might be tight a bit on the inside if you plan on running 275
I just visited the Enkei web site.
The RPF1 wheels are race spec wheels. Do you know what that means?
Design standards are different for street driven and race wheels. Race wheels do not hit potholes, do not get curbed and do not live long. It’s more important to avoid loosing air pressure if you do hit something, so the wheel is expected to bend under impact so you can finish the race…
These are serious draw backs if you plan to drive them daily. It’s your money, but I’d hate to see you starting a topic on “Where to get a rim fixed” 2 weeks after you got your new wheels…
The RPF1 wheels are race spec wheels. Do you know what that means?
Design standards are different for street driven and race wheels. Race wheels do not hit potholes, do not get curbed and do not live long. It’s more important to avoid loosing air pressure if you do hit something, so the wheel is expected to bend under impact so you can finish the race…
These are serious draw backs if you plan to drive them daily. It’s your money, but I’d hate to see you starting a topic on “Where to get a rim fixed” 2 weeks after you got your new wheels…
If tracking was all they were for. I would just get the RPF1's in 17x8's all around and save some cash. Thats only $310 a wheel.
15.5 Lbs each.
Pilot Sport PS2's are the lightest tires i have found too, but really expensive as well.
15.5 Lbs each.
Pilot Sport PS2's are the lightest tires i have found too, but really expensive as well.
Last edited by OCG35Coupe; Apr 10, 2006 at 03:58 PM.
Originally Posted by Kolia
I just visited the Enkei web site.
The RPF1 wheels are race spec wheels. Do you know what that means?
Design standards are different for street driven and race wheels. Race wheels do not hit potholes, do not get curbed and do not live long. It’s more important to avoid loosing air pressure if you do hit something, so the wheel is expected to bend under impact so you can finish the race…
These are serious draw backs if you plan to drive them daily. It’s your money, but I’d hate to see you starting a topic on “Where to get a rim fixed” 2 weeks after you got your new wheels…
The RPF1 wheels are race spec wheels. Do you know what that means?
Design standards are different for street driven and race wheels. Race wheels do not hit potholes, do not get curbed and do not live long. It’s more important to avoid loosing air pressure if you do hit something, so the wheel is expected to bend under impact so you can finish the race…
These are serious draw backs if you plan to drive them daily. It’s your money, but I’d hate to see you starting a topic on “Where to get a rim fixed” 2 weeks after you got your new wheels…
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