^ Nice pick-up. Now you gotta wait until spring to put them on???

Here's one to hold you over (or make you run out into the garage and put yours on right now : ) )

 

I'm glad everything went so well, Arnab. I miss them already.

 

This question goes to all Volk GT-C owners. I need your help in knowing if it's possible to install TPMS on these rims? I'm tired of the warning light on my dashboard and I'm considering adding the darn TPMS's to the rims. Thank you for your help.
P.S. I read the TPMS thread but I did not see anyone mentioning these type of rims.

 

sry - I'm very excited to join the CE crew. I had all but confirmed bronze as my color as I never thought I'd find a set of limited editions for a better deal but lo and behold Jon came through on a random night at 1:30AM. It is torture having to walk past the wheels every morning and look at the OEM 17s and Blizzaks that are currently shod on my car.
Oh well, only a couple more months I guess.

Jon - I can imagine, they are a slick set of wheels. I'm trying my best to free up for Zdays so hopefully you can see them again in person.
Also as a random side note...do you know if the Kumho's you had on there tend to run wide, avg, or narrow compared to other tires. I was dead set on running 285/35 out back but the current 275/35 is barely stretched at all really on the rears. I want to run the proper width but would prefer the marginally smaller sidewall of the 275/35 if it's barely stretched.


Z08 - As far as I know only the Volk monoblocks can directly accept TPMS from the original wheels. People have banded TPMS sensors onto the barrels as an alternative for the multipiece wheels and there is an option to use an adapter.

Do a search for TPMS and band and it should net you quite a few results.
This is to get you started.

 

I haven't done a direct comparison, but they seem to be pretty standard as compared to other tires I've run on a 10.5" rim. One of my other sets of wheels has a 265 on all four (each 10.5") & the Kumho 275s seem to be a tiny bit larger/ meatier.

When I got the tires, I was intent on running a 285, but we mounted the 275 just to see & it was plenty thick enough for my purposes. In retrospect, though, I probably would've gotten the 285 anyway as I like the thick tire.

 

I can't decide lol...I browse the aggressive wheel and FAT tire thread and love the meaty sidewalls and then I look at some lower profile setups and love them too...sigh. I don't like the uber stretched look for my own car especially given it's a fully daily, but I might just go 275 for the initial set so I can get some Vredesteins which don't come in 285/35. Later I might switch to a meatier setup depending on what happens to my car's status as a daily...

edit: how about some better pictures?

fulls:


Attachment 1

finer details:


Attachment 1

right down to the TPMS caps a la Jon:


sizes and certs:




enjoy/

 

Very nice man! Keep them clean. I'm tempted to put the big Volk Japan stickers on my lips too but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Looks awesome..

 

GAH!! Clean...it's going to kill me. I drive my car everyday, everywhere. I also tend to work about 75-85+ hrs/ a week. Keeping these in shape may kill me. What have you been using for your CEs? I have P21s wheel gel that I love for my OEMs; neutral pH, reputed as top notch stuff that's very gentle. I will probably test it out before committing on this set, but I'd appreciate any advice from a fellow owner.

Also, put the stickers on!! I don't know how long it will last, but hopefully with only spring-fall duty they shouldn't be exposed to too much other than rain and dirt. Bringing it back to the first point...

 

I have been pretty successful keeping them spotless so far, save for a few tiny spots where it looks like hot road tar might have splattered on and engrained itself in the clearcoat. I don't use any special designated wheel cleaner products, I just use the same stuff I put on the car's paint. For the past few years it's been Turtle Wax brand ICE car wash soap. Here's my procedure:

1) Thoroughly rinse the spokes and lip with moderate pressure hose stream to knock off any solid dirt/stones/grit stuck to the surface.

2) Dunk a clean wash mit (I believe the one I am using is some sort of microfiber / chenille) into the bucket of ICE / water mixture and wring it out onto the wheel lip at 9:00 and 3:00, so the water/soap coats the lower half of the wheel lip. Wipe the lip gently in case there is any leftover loose grit, only do short wipes, and turn wash mit frequently. This way in case you do pick up a stone or piece of sand or something, you won't drag it all the way across the lip. (I've done that before - and a little piece of me died)

3) Rinse the wash mit frequently with the hose, and not in the water/soap bucket. Keeps the mit and the water clean and again reduces the chances of dragging a stone across the wheel.

4) Just be gentle with the top half of the wheel lip, since you can't pour water upwards. Short wipes, lots of soap, lots of turning the mit, lots of rinsing.

5) I always do the spokes after the lips because if you do the spokes first, there is the chance that you willbe rubbing a stone or dirt around on the lip as you wipe the spokes near where they meet the lip. Plus in my experience the painted spokes are much, much less susceptible to scratching than the machined and clear-coated lips.

6) When it's all washed, rinse off with moderate pressure water. I try not to use high pressure for fear of one of the stickers starting to peel and then the water just ripping in off. (Happened to me on my winter wheels).

7) Use microfiber towels to dry the wheels. When I really get into it, I fire up the air compressor and use the spray nozzle attachement to blow all the water out from the lug holes and all the crevices - that way you don't end up with a bead of water picking up some brake dust and slinging it around your freshly cleaned wheels the first time you drive after washing.

Tip: When you are cleaning the outward-facing step in the lip (just inside of the outer rim), you might be tempted to just stick your thumb in the wash mist and give it a good 360 degree wipe. DON'T. I did that on my previous set (LE28n's) and sure enough one wheel I must have trapped a little stone or sand grain or something and it pit a nice circumfrential scratch about half way around the lip. (Another part of me died). Be careful!

I know all of this probably seems like common knowledge, but my point really is that the lips on these particular wheels are unfortunately very delicate.

 

^I appreciate the write up, common knowledge or not, you have the exact same wheels I have and what better resource than that?

I have quite a few detailer friends I will check with before hand to get their opinion on using my P21s gel on aftermarket wheels such as Volks. I will try to test the p21 stuff that I have very carefully before I go soak my wheel in it. I have used it on a lot of wheels and it's very effective but very gentle. It tends to remove anything that regular car shampoo and water cannot, but it cannot do the tar.

However, you can try to use a light cutting claybar on very clean wheels to get the tar off. It has worked for me in the past. Use lots of soapy water for lubrication and just go with the grain of the lip and it should take it off with no pressure whatsoever if it is ever going to come off. If it requires more than just light pressure than it's likely too far gone and you might as well chalk it up to a battle scar of daily use.

I noticed a few tar spots on my wheels and I will be claying them once it gets a bit warmer and I can post a detailed process if it helps when I do it. I will also let you know if the P21 is safe and carries any worthwhile benefit for these specific wheels.

 

^ Beautiful CE's bro, love that color!

 

i had my TE's since september, and now i finally have pictures of them.

 

^ Just like my brotha Stogies, nice.

 

just put them on last night along with springs... took a quick shot with my phone cam this morning.

better pics by the weekend (if time permits)


GTS 19x9.5/10.5
Tanabe GF210

 

^ Killer, brosef.

 

never go wrong with a set of GT-S

 

They look rad, but watch out for those bump stops behind your exhaust tips

 

ONE8 - Thanks for your response. I had considered the banding option but I wasn't trying to go that route.

 

Where to get those Rays valve caps? My Ce's just came with plain ones?

 

Yea, I don't particularly like the banding option. I'd go with the adapters then if you can get them to work. I guess ask some people with them and go from there.

To be honest, I'm not sure. I bought the wheels from cow, and he sent me the Rays valve stems and he just put the caps onto the TPMS. I have the valve stems sitting as extras currently. I don't know if it was special order or if that's standard, but I'd ask cow.