PLEASE READ: 350Z, track days, rear pad wear
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by DZeckhausen
...It this time, I'm not aware of any ducting kits for the 350Z. The ideal kit would consist of a replacement backing plate that used a quick disconnect to attach a high-temp hose to duct air directly to the center of the rotor from an opening under the front bumper. You don't want to simply direct air to the inside face of the rotor, since this will result in differential cooling and added stress to the rotor as it tries to take on a cone shape. The quick disconnect would allow you to remove the hose for street driving, since it would limit the range of steering. On atrack, this is not a problem at all, but on the street it makes parallel parking a pain!
...It this time, I'm not aware of any ducting kits for the 350Z. The ideal kit would consist of a replacement backing plate that used a quick disconnect to attach a high-temp hose to duct air directly to the center of the rotor from an opening under the front bumper. You don't want to simply direct air to the inside face of the rotor, since this will result in differential cooling and added stress to the rotor as it tries to take on a cone shape. The quick disconnect would allow you to remove the hose for street driving, since it would limit the range of steering. On atrack, this is not a problem at all, but on the street it makes parallel parking a pain!
btw - I finally got to your web site and remember it now as I was looking for some brake and suspension parts for my 330Ci.
Thanks for the contributions to the thread Dave.
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just to add to the dataset, when I changed my OEM pads for Ferodo DS 2500s at 5,500 miles, the stock pads were quite evenly worn, front and back, with about 7 or 8 mm left. At that point I had run five track days, mostly with VDC off. However, it can be quite helpful in the rain.
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So far, so good, but I haven't had a chance to put them to really hard use. The only track day I've had since installing them was wet and cold. And it looks like my next track day, this Friday, will also be wet, dammit.
The DS-2500s are supposed to be good street-track combo pads, and on the street they're fine: no excessive noise and dust about the same or slightly better than the stock pads. I didn't want to a) risk wearing down the rotors, as the more agressive pads (DS-3000 or Hawk Blues) are supposed to do, or 2) switch pads before and after every track event (yeah, I'm lazy).
I'll report back when I have more info.
The DS-2500s are supposed to be good street-track combo pads, and on the street they're fine: no excessive noise and dust about the same or slightly better than the stock pads. I didn't want to a) risk wearing down the rotors, as the more agressive pads (DS-3000 or Hawk Blues) are supposed to do, or 2) switch pads before and after every track event (yeah, I'm lazy).
I'll report back when I have more info.
#26
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Bump for a great thread.
I just recently upgraded my pads, lines and fluid for track events and wish I would have read this thread earlier.
I stuck with the factory setup but added motul 600, Carbotech Panther+ f/r, s/s lines and a DIY air duct for the fronts. My latest track event was a time trial so I didn't get a *lot* of repetitive use, but the morning practice session was probably 10-12 laps and I experienced no fade. Which was a very different experience from my last event where I had to downshift to make the car slow down because the brakes faded so badly.
Also, I brought along an infrared non-contact thermometer and my parked front rotor temps never exceeded 800 degrees. Rears came in around 750. Both front and rear temps were very close to the same each time I tested them. Those temps were with a shortened cool down lap, with no high speed straight.
Now my plan is to work on enlarging the duct system and finding a way to get air to the rears. But so far I am pretty happy with the factory brakes. Sure they don't look as good as a BBK, but they work, for now.
I just recently upgraded my pads, lines and fluid for track events and wish I would have read this thread earlier.
I stuck with the factory setup but added motul 600, Carbotech Panther+ f/r, s/s lines and a DIY air duct for the fronts. My latest track event was a time trial so I didn't get a *lot* of repetitive use, but the morning practice session was probably 10-12 laps and I experienced no fade. Which was a very different experience from my last event where I had to downshift to make the car slow down because the brakes faded so badly.
Also, I brought along an infrared non-contact thermometer and my parked front rotor temps never exceeded 800 degrees. Rears came in around 750. Both front and rear temps were very close to the same each time I tested them. Those temps were with a shortened cool down lap, with no high speed straight.
Now my plan is to work on enlarging the duct system and finding a way to get air to the rears. But so far I am pretty happy with the factory brakes. Sure they don't look as good as a BBK, but they work, for now.
Last edited by zillinois; 07-04-2004 at 04:32 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Subarism
East Canada
2
09-23-2015 06:09 PM