How To Maintain Your RAYS Wheels!
09-28-2009, 08:51 PM
#161
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Jonny Law:
The actual process of anodizing anything is basically a controlled form of corrosion. It is typically performed on Aluminum and or Magnesium because they tend to oxidize (corrode) rather quickly. Even Stainless Steel will rust if it comes into contact with something that will oxidize it immediately after polishing or cutting it since the steel itself is not corrosion resistant but the chromium in the steel alloy that reacts with air forming the protective "passive layer". If you can cause Stainless to rust before this film forms it will ( I hope that makes sense).
Titanium has none of these issues and if I remember correctly is the second most corrosion resistant pure (elemental) metal behind platinum, even beating gold. I haven't looked into it but I would assume a Ti exhaust would be pretty tough as far as corrosion. It should be able to be polished with anything made for stainless steel (even to a mirror finish) and the only reason I would wax or use any protectants would be to make cleaning easier in the future. As I state with everything...."test in an inconspicuous area first." as I'm no expert on the actually alloys used in exhaust systems (or Volk Wheels for that matter)
The actual process of anodizing anything is basically a controlled form of corrosion. It is typically performed on Aluminum and or Magnesium because they tend to oxidize (corrode) rather quickly. Even Stainless Steel will rust if it comes into contact with something that will oxidize it immediately after polishing or cutting it since the steel itself is not corrosion resistant but the chromium in the steel alloy that reacts with air forming the protective "passive layer". If you can cause Stainless to rust before this film forms it will ( I hope that makes sense).
Titanium has none of these issues and if I remember correctly is the second most corrosion resistant pure (elemental) metal behind platinum, even beating gold. I haven't looked into it but I would assume a Ti exhaust would be pretty tough as far as corrosion. It should be able to be polished with anything made for stainless steel (even to a mirror finish) and the only reason I would wax or use any protectants would be to make cleaning easier in the future. As I state with everything...."test in an inconspicuous area first." as I'm no expert on the actually alloys used in exhaust systems (or Volk Wheels for that matter)
09-28-2009, 10:55 PM
#162
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I wouldn't think so.
The label does not say that it works for Anodized AL. The fact that it states "leaving a long lasting protective coating from tarnishing" leads me to believe that it is meant for bare metal which your wheels are not.
This is what I recommend and have had other people second.
http://www.bonami.com/products/
I don't know if you can find it in Italia but I'd try. It works like a champ and is very inexpensive.
Mike
The label does not say that it works for Anodized AL. The fact that it states "leaving a long lasting protective coating from tarnishing" leads me to believe that it is meant for bare metal which your wheels are not.
This is what I recommend and have had other people second.
http://www.bonami.com/products/
I don't know if you can find it in Italia but I'd try. It works like a champ and is very inexpensive.
Mike
09-29-2009, 07:55 PM
#163
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Sorry didn't scroll down. Looks like it should work. I wouldn't expect it to polish by "removing" material as much as really cleaning it. There isn't anything in the ingredients that I'd call abrasive.
Try it and let us know.
Try it and let us know.
09-30-2009, 09:58 AM
#164
Thanks for the response. I think I feel comfortable using never dull or one of the polishe/cleaners meant for all metal, but my only concern now is the signature gradated parts of the titan tips and the blue gradation on the canisters. I would hate for that gradation to come off or deteriorate due to an application of one of these polishes/cleaners.
Jonny Law:
The actual process of anodizing anything is basically a controlled form of corrosion. It is typically performed on Aluminum and or Magnesium because they tend to oxidize (corrode) rather quickly. Even Stainless Steel will rust if it comes into contact with something that will oxidize it immediately after polishing or cutting it since the steel itself is not corrosion resistant but the chromium in the steel alloy that reacts with air forming the protective "passive layer". If you can cause Stainless to rust before this film forms it will ( I hope that makes sense).
Titanium has none of these issues and if I remember correctly is the second most corrosion resistant pure (elemental) metal behind platinum, even beating gold. I haven't looked into it but I would assume a Ti exhaust would be pretty tough as far as corrosion. It should be able to be polished with anything made for stainless steel (even to a mirror finish) and the only reason I would wax or use any protectants would be to make cleaning easier in the future. As I state with everything...."test in an inconspicuous area first." as I'm no expert on the actually alloys used in exhaust systems (or Volk Wheels for that matter)
The actual process of anodizing anything is basically a controlled form of corrosion. It is typically performed on Aluminum and or Magnesium because they tend to oxidize (corrode) rather quickly. Even Stainless Steel will rust if it comes into contact with something that will oxidize it immediately after polishing or cutting it since the steel itself is not corrosion resistant but the chromium in the steel alloy that reacts with air forming the protective "passive layer". If you can cause Stainless to rust before this film forms it will ( I hope that makes sense).
Titanium has none of these issues and if I remember correctly is the second most corrosion resistant pure (elemental) metal behind platinum, even beating gold. I haven't looked into it but I would assume a Ti exhaust would be pretty tough as far as corrosion. It should be able to be polished with anything made for stainless steel (even to a mirror finish) and the only reason I would wax or use any protectants would be to make cleaning easier in the future. As I state with everything...."test in an inconspicuous area first." as I'm no expert on the actually alloys used in exhaust systems (or Volk Wheels for that matter)
09-30-2009, 10:12 AM
#165
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@ Jonny Law:
I would fully expect that proper use of any good polishing product WILL without a doubt remove the blue coloring and I'd recommend avoiding that with anything other than, really, soap and water.
Typically in metal fabrication what causes that effect is mistakes and is usually considered discoloration. BUT, sometime back when people were first building those exhausts someone probably accidenally caused some of the blueing and thought it looked cool (and also demonstrating that it is in fact Titanium) so the look stuck.
I'm curious (since I've never looked) Is there any "bluing" around any of the welds?
I would compare this to a handmade suit that I own. At the cuff of the jacket, the buttons at the end of the sleeve unbutton and come open like a dress shirt. I leave the last buttons undone on each sleeve, not because I'm a sloppy dresser but as a very subtle detail showing that it's a bespoke suit. Same thing with the blue tips.
I would fully expect that proper use of any good polishing product WILL without a doubt remove the blue coloring and I'd recommend avoiding that with anything other than, really, soap and water.
Typically in metal fabrication what causes that effect is mistakes and is usually considered discoloration. BUT, sometime back when people were first building those exhausts someone probably accidenally caused some of the blueing and thought it looked cool (and also demonstrating that it is in fact Titanium) so the look stuck.
I'm curious (since I've never looked) Is there any "bluing" around any of the welds?
I would compare this to a handmade suit that I own. At the cuff of the jacket, the buttons at the end of the sleeve unbutton and come open like a dress shirt. I leave the last buttons undone on each sleeve, not because I'm a sloppy dresser but as a very subtle detail showing that it's a bespoke suit. Same thing with the blue tips.
10-04-2009, 07:37 AM
#166
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Replace, Re-paint or Cleaning??
Hi all,
I got TE37 Bronze on my 350Z, per attached, but as you see.....extremely dirty! Even the sticker are off.... I really love them, but will I be able to clean them...still?
Thanks for advice in advance!
I got TE37 Bronze on my 350Z, per attached, but as you see.....extremely dirty! Even the sticker are off.... I really love them, but will I be able to clean them...still?
Thanks for advice in advance!
10-29-2009, 07:45 PM
#168
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01-04-2010, 10:34 AM
#169
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Anyone else have ideas for removing spots?? Im going to try the bon ami suggestion I think. Did anyone have any good experiences having their volks refinnished?? Which shops??
02-07-2010, 11:50 PM
#170
Just got my Volk GT-S (used) with scratches here and there, and some rust look-alike. (i'll try to get pics)
reading through this thread, i've put down the list of used/recommended products, and i'd appreciate if ppl can verify or even update us with new good products.
-Eagle1 Wheel Cleaner
-Zaino Z5 (to remove scratches)
-Turtle Wax ICE (Car Wash)
-Clay bar (remove stains)
-Zaino Z6 (to shine the wheels)
-Meg's Quick Detailer (to shine the wheels)
-WheelWax (to shine the wheels)
-Zaino Z8 (to shine the wheels)
-Zain Z2 (to shine the wheels)
-Meg's Multipiece Wheel Cleaner
-P21 Wheel Cleaner Gel
-Bon Ami
i need to work on my wheels to get them shiny and clean as possible, what would be the best way of doing so?
reading through this thread, i've put down the list of used/recommended products, and i'd appreciate if ppl can verify or even update us with new good products.
-Eagle1 Wheel Cleaner
-Zaino Z5 (to remove scratches)
-Turtle Wax ICE (Car Wash)
-Clay bar (remove stains)
-Zaino Z6 (to shine the wheels)
-Meg's Quick Detailer (to shine the wheels)
-WheelWax (to shine the wheels)
-Zaino Z8 (to shine the wheels)
-Zain Z2 (to shine the wheels)
-Meg's Multipiece Wheel Cleaner
-P21 Wheel Cleaner Gel
-Bon Ami
i need to work on my wheels to get them shiny and clean as possible, what would be the best way of doing so?
02-08-2010, 09:00 AM
#171
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-Eagle1 Wheel Cleaner - I'd Avoid on Volks
-Zaino Z5 (to remove scratches) Will only work on painted face, don't use on anything metallic, probably wouldn't work anyway
-Turtle Wax ICE (Car Wash) should be fine for light cleaning
-Clay bar (remove stains) haven't had much luck on Volk's but doesn't seen to hurt
-Zaino Z6 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Meg's Quick Detailer (to shine the wheels) Great for routine "light" maintaining of clean wheels
-WheelWax (to shine the wheels)I'd use this every time, all over the wheel after cleaning
-Zaino Z8 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Zain Z2 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Meg's Multipiece Wheel Cleaner I'd Avoid on Volks
-P21 Wheel Cleaner Gel I'd Avoid on Volks
-Bon Ami My "go to" product for Volks, I use everytime, does well on heavier grime, don't be afraid to scrub
-Zaino Z5 (to remove scratches) Will only work on painted face, don't use on anything metallic, probably wouldn't work anyway
-Turtle Wax ICE (Car Wash) should be fine for light cleaning
-Clay bar (remove stains) haven't had much luck on Volk's but doesn't seen to hurt
-Zaino Z6 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Meg's Quick Detailer (to shine the wheels) Great for routine "light" maintaining of clean wheels
-WheelWax (to shine the wheels)I'd use this every time, all over the wheel after cleaning
-Zaino Z8 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Zain Z2 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Meg's Multipiece Wheel Cleaner I'd Avoid on Volks
-P21 Wheel Cleaner Gel I'd Avoid on Volks
-Bon Ami My "go to" product for Volks, I use everytime, does well on heavier grime, don't be afraid to scrub
02-09-2010, 07:41 AM
#173
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The Bon Ami is a powdered cleanser. You may be able to order it online. I really can't stress enough, how well it really works. It is also rediculously in-expensive.
02-14-2010, 05:15 PM
#174
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I just used P21s on my clear coated limited edition CE28s, worked beautifully.
If your Volks are painted and cleared, you should have no issues with this product. I left the stuff on both my diamond cut lip and painted spokes (both clear coated areas) for 2+ hours to test...no discoloration, no hazing, no difference at all in finish. I would recommend using mild car soap to clean your wheels regularly, but if you have some stubborn brake dust or just need a thorough clean, P21 is a-ok for clear coated Volks.
EDIT: I have done my fronts so far. I will take before and afters for the rears. I will be attempting to use Zaino to seal up the wheels before they get mounted in spring and hopefully have detailed macro shots of the results.
If your Volks are painted and cleared, you should have no issues with this product. I left the stuff on both my diamond cut lip and painted spokes (both clear coated areas) for 2+ hours to test...no discoloration, no hazing, no difference at all in finish. I would recommend using mild car soap to clean your wheels regularly, but if you have some stubborn brake dust or just need a thorough clean, P21 is a-ok for clear coated Volks.
EDIT: I have done my fronts so far. I will take before and afters for the rears. I will be attempting to use Zaino to seal up the wheels before they get mounted in spring and hopefully have detailed macro shots of the results.
Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-14-2010 at 05:17 PM.
02-15-2010, 04:57 AM
#175
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P21 is wax, correct?
Also please define what you mean by "diamond cut".
If you have a polished metal lip on your CE28s they are most definitely not clear coated but anodized. I do highly recommend keeping your wheels waxed.
Also please define what you mean by "diamond cut".
If you have a polished metal lip on your CE28s they are most definitely not clear coated but anodized. I do highly recommend keeping your wheels waxed.
02-15-2010, 06:46 PM
#177
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By diamond cut I mean, diamond cut. Straight from Rays website:
My spokes are painted Formula Silver and clear coated. My lip is NOT polished, but bare-cut aluminum that is clear coated. You can see the grain of the metal in the cut, it's not perfectly shiny or smooth, I'll try to take a macro shot of the texture later.
(before cleaning picture - just to show the lip and spokes)
Attachment 471264
I used the gel cleaner on my wheels knowing all parts were clear coated and nothing was anodized to get ruined. I let the gel sit for 2+ hours on small part of the lip and spokes to see if anything would happen. It's perfect. No change occurred whatsoever. No discoloration, no hazing, no visual difference.
Thus for those with painted and clear coated Volks, I think P21s gel is solid cleaner. I have used it on everything before I got Volks and it is my cleaner of choice as it has never harmed any wheel I've used it on before.
That being said, I haven't tried it on every Volk finish but I will be asking a detailer friend of mine what he thinks or if he has any experience with it on anodized or other types of finishes. For the time being, if you have clear coat on your wheels and you want a strong but very gentle and pH neutral cleaner that wont etch your clear, P21 gets my vote.
I will be using Zaino Z2 and Z5 to seal my wheels for the time being while I hunt for a possibly better wheel wax/sealant. I will take a full picture set when I do my rears.
Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-16-2010 at 03:53 PM.
02-16-2010, 01:49 PM
#178
anyone here have a matte/flat finish Volk that has a flat/matte clearcoat? Its really hard to clean mine and they just smear when i wipe them off with soap and water. Anyone know the best/easiest way to clean these?
btw the finish feels like there is no clear coat, doesn't feel glossy whatsoever...but again it has matte clear coat on em so i guess thats the reason they feel like that.
btw the finish feels like there is no clear coat, doesn't feel glossy whatsoever...but again it has matte clear coat on em so i guess thats the reason they feel like that.
02-16-2010, 05:54 PM
#179
anyone here have a matte/flat finish Volk that has a flat/matte clearcoat? Its really hard to clean mine and they just smear when i wipe them off with soap and water. Anyone know the best/easiest way to clean these?
btw the finish feels like there is no clear coat, doesn't feel glossy whatsoever...but again it has matte clear coat on em so i guess thats the reason they feel like that.
btw the finish feels like there is no clear coat, doesn't feel glossy whatsoever...but again it has matte clear coat on em so i guess thats the reason they feel like that.
02-17-2010, 12:33 PM
#180
yes, I have gunmetal ce28n's. It is a matte finish with a lighter clear coat than some other volks. Motul wash n wax works great after washing with soap and water. I have heard good things about honda polish, but have not tried it personally. I would try motul wash n' wax.