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How To Maintain Your RAYS Wheels!

Old 09-30-2009, 09:58 AM
  #161  
jonnylaw
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Thanks for the response. I think I feel comfortable using never dull or one of the polishe/cleaners meant for all metal, but my only concern now is the signature gradated parts of the titan tips and the blue gradation on the canisters. I would hate for that gradation to come off or deteriorate due to an application of one of these polishes/cleaners.


Originally Posted by StlMikeD View Post
Jonny Law:

The actual process of anodizing anything is basically a controlled form of corrosion. It is typically performed on Aluminum and or Magnesium because they tend to oxidize (corrode) rather quickly. Even Stainless Steel will rust if it comes into contact with something that will oxidize it immediately after polishing or cutting it since the steel itself is not corrosion resistant but the chromium in the steel alloy that reacts with air forming the protective "passive layer". If you can cause Stainless to rust before this film forms it will ( I hope that makes sense).

Titanium has none of these issues and if I remember correctly is the second most corrosion resistant pure (elemental) metal behind platinum, even beating gold. I haven't looked into it but I would assume a Ti exhaust would be pretty tough as far as corrosion. It should be able to be polished with anything made for stainless steel (even to a mirror finish) and the only reason I would wax or use any protectants would be to make cleaning easier in the future. As I state with everything...."test in an inconspicuous area first." as I'm no expert on the actually alloys used in exhaust systems (or Volk Wheels for that matter)
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:12 AM
  #162  
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@ Jonny Law:

I would fully expect that proper use of any good polishing product WILL without a doubt remove the blue coloring and I'd recommend avoiding that with anything other than, really, soap and water.

Typically in metal fabrication what causes that effect is mistakes and is usually considered discoloration. BUT, sometime back when people were first building those exhausts someone probably accidenally caused some of the blueing and thought it looked cool (and also demonstrating that it is in fact Titanium) so the look stuck.

I'm curious (since I've never looked) Is there any "bluing" around any of the welds?

I would compare this to a handmade suit that I own. At the cuff of the jacket, the buttons at the end of the sleeve unbutton and come open like a dress shirt. I leave the last buttons undone on each sleeve, not because I'm a sloppy dresser but as a very subtle detail showing that it's a bespoke suit. Same thing with the blue tips.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:37 AM
  #163  
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Unhappy Replace, Re-paint or Cleaning??

Hi all,

I got TE37 Bronze on my 350Z, per attached, but as you see.....extremely dirty! Even the sticker are off.... I really love them, but will I be able to clean them...still?

How To Maintain Your RAYS Wheels!-img_0333.jpg

How To Maintain Your RAYS Wheels!-img_0340.jpg

Thanks for advice in advance!
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:06 PM
  #164  
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hey guys, one of my SF challenge just got a chip 1/4 size of a penny. Its bother the crap out of me, what is the best way to get it fixed?
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:45 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by JPE22 View Post
hey guys, one of my SF challenge just got a chip 1/4 size of a penny. Its bother the crap out of me, what is the best way to get it fixed?
pic?
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:34 AM
  #166  
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Anyone else have ideas for removing spots?? Im going to try the bon ami suggestion I think. Did anyone have any good experiences having their volks refinnished?? Which shops??
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:50 PM
  #167  
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Just got my Volk GT-S (used) with scratches here and there, and some rust look-alike. (i'll try to get pics)

reading through this thread, i've put down the list of used/recommended products, and i'd appreciate if ppl can verify or even update us with new good products.

-Eagle1 Wheel Cleaner
-Zaino Z5 (to remove scratches)
-Turtle Wax ICE (Car Wash)
-Clay bar (remove stains)
-Zaino Z6 (to shine the wheels)
-Meg's Quick Detailer (to shine the wheels)
-WheelWax (to shine the wheels)
-Zaino Z8 (to shine the wheels)
-Zain Z2 (to shine the wheels)
-Meg's Multipiece Wheel Cleaner
-P21 Wheel Cleaner Gel
-Bon Ami


i need to work on my wheels to get them shiny and clean as possible, what would be the best way of doing so?
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:00 AM
  #168  
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-Eagle1 Wheel Cleaner - I'd Avoid on Volks
-Zaino Z5 (to remove scratches) Will only work on painted face, don't use on anything metallic, probably wouldn't work anyway
-Turtle Wax ICE (Car Wash) should be fine for light cleaning
-Clay bar (remove stains) haven't had much luck on Volk's but doesn't seen to hurt
-Zaino Z6 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Meg's Quick Detailer (to shine the wheels) Great for routine "light" maintaining of clean wheels
-WheelWax (to shine the wheels)I'd use this every time, all over the wheel after cleaning
-Zaino Z8 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Zain Z2 (to shine the wheels) probably won't do much on Volks
-Meg's Multipiece Wheel Cleaner I'd Avoid on Volks
-P21 Wheel Cleaner Gel I'd Avoid on Volks
-Bon Ami My "go to" product for Volks, I use everytime, does well on heavier grime, don't be afraid to scrub
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:00 PM
  #169  
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^thanks... i'm sure we don't have Bon Ami here.. so, i'm not sure what should i use to clean the rust..

i have Ultimate Quick Detailer.. is it as good as the quick detailer? i mean, it doesn't have any additives to it that might ruin the lip?
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:41 AM
  #170  
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The Bon Ami is a powdered cleanser. You may be able to order it online. I really can't stress enough, how well it really works. It is also rediculously in-expensive.
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:15 PM
  #171  
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I just used P21s on my clear coated limited edition CE28s, worked beautifully.

If your Volks are painted and cleared, you should have no issues with this product. I left the stuff on both my diamond cut lip and painted spokes (both clear coated areas) for 2+ hours to test...no discoloration, no hazing, no difference at all in finish. I would recommend using mild car soap to clean your wheels regularly, but if you have some stubborn brake dust or just need a thorough clean, P21 is a-ok for clear coated Volks.

EDIT: I have done my fronts so far. I will take before and afters for the rears. I will be attempting to use Zaino to seal up the wheels before they get mounted in spring and hopefully have detailed macro shots of the results.

Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-14-2010 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 02-15-2010, 04:57 AM
  #172  
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P21 is wax, correct?

Also please define what you mean by "diamond cut".

If you have a polished metal lip on your CE28s they are most definitely not clear coated but anodized. I do highly recommend keeping your wheels waxed.
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Old 02-15-2010, 11:35 AM
  #173  
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motul wash n. wax has worked very well on my Volks and my oem's for that matter. Also have heard that Honda polish is a good choice as well.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:46 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by StlMikeD View Post
P21 is wax, correct?

Also please define what you mean by "diamond cut".

If you have a polished metal lip on your CE28s they are most definitely not clear coated but anodized. I do highly recommend keeping your wheels waxed.
No, P21s wheel gel cleaner. It's the stronger version of their original spray that is still pH neutral and very gentle but strong. (ignore the watermark, it was the clearest picture I could find quickly)


By diamond cut I mean, diamond cut. Straight from Rays website:


My spokes are painted Formula Silver and clear coated. My lip is NOT polished, but bare-cut aluminum that is clear coated. You can see the grain of the metal in the cut, it's not perfectly shiny or smooth, I'll try to take a macro shot of the texture later.
(before cleaning picture - just to show the lip and spokes)


I used the gel cleaner on my wheels knowing all parts were clear coated and nothing was anodized to get ruined. I let the gel sit for 2+ hours on small part of the lip and spokes to see if anything would happen. It's perfect. No change occurred whatsoever. No discoloration, no hazing, no visual difference.

Thus for those with painted and clear coated Volks, I think P21s gel is solid cleaner. I have used it on everything before I got Volks and it is my cleaner of choice as it has never harmed any wheel I've used it on before.

That being said, I haven't tried it on every Volk finish but I will be asking a detailer friend of mine what he thinks or if he has any experience with it on anodized or other types of finishes. For the time being, if you have clear coat on your wheels and you want a strong but very gentle and pH neutral cleaner that wont etch your clear, P21 gets my vote.

I will be using Zaino Z2 and Z5 to seal my wheels for the time being while I hunt for a possibly better wheel wax/sealant. I will take a full picture set when I do my rears.

Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-16-2010 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:49 PM
  #175  
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anyone here have a matte/flat finish Volk that has a flat/matte clearcoat? Its really hard to clean mine and they just smear when i wipe them off with soap and water. Anyone know the best/easiest way to clean these?

btw the finish feels like there is no clear coat, doesn't feel glossy whatsoever...but again it has matte clear coat on em so i guess thats the reason they feel like that.
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:54 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by JPE22 View Post
anyone here have a matte/flat finish Volk that has a flat/matte clearcoat? Its really hard to clean mine and they just smear when i wipe them off with soap and water. Anyone know the best/easiest way to clean these?

btw the finish feels like there is no clear coat, doesn't feel glossy whatsoever...but again it has matte clear coat on em so i guess thats the reason they feel like that.
yes, I have gunmetal ce28n's. It is a matte finish with a lighter clear coat than some other volks. Motul wash n wax works great after washing with soap and water. I have heard good things about honda polish, but have not tried it personally. I would try motul wash n' wax.
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:33 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by jonnylaw View Post
yes, I have gunmetal ce28n's. It is a matte finish with a lighter clear coat than some other volks. Motul wash n wax works great after washing with soap and water. I have heard good things about honda polish, but have not tried it personally. I would try motul wash n' wax.
thanks a lot man ill try that
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:35 AM
  #178  
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Alright guys...you're going to think this is a bit crazy/ballsy/stupid, but it worked out great.

I noticed there was a ton of small 0.5-2.0mm tar spots on the lips of my Limited CEs. Again these are bare machined aluminum lips with a top clear coat (NOT ANODIZED) and painted and cleared spokes. So I talked to a bunch of detailer friends I have across the country. All of them do very high end work and own their own detailing businesses (Ferrari's, Porsches, Lambos, concours events), basically not your average joe in a garage with some Meguiars and Turtle wax.
I asked them what they use/recommend for removing tar off clear coated surfaces. I received recommendations for two 'lower' end products (ie ones that I didn't have to order through them that cost 20-30 bucks).
1) Stoners Tarminator

2) 3M Adhesive Remover (automotive type, not for office work)


I picked up a can of Tarminator to try it out. I got like 10 q-tips and sprayed a little into a puddle on a curved piece of plastic. I put the tip in the line of fire so it got soaked and then swished it around in the formed puddle of tarminator. I found a tar spot and just let the tip rest on the spot for 10-15 sec (longer for some) and then turned the q-tip in my fingers and the tar spots came right off. I then immediately rinsed each spot with water and checked for any changes in clear coat color/hazing and etc.
No problems found. So I basically repeated this process for all the tar spots on my wheels. Aside from the true defects from rocks/etc causing physical defects in the clear layer, all the tar was removed in under 35 seconds of exposure to tarminator. Now all 360 degrees of my wheels are completely free of tar...no little black spots anywhere. Looks like new essentially and after some coats of sealant should shine like new too.

Note: I DID NOT / DID NOT NEED TO spray the tarminator directly on the wheel. Just apply through a q-tip as a solvent soak...takes the tar right off and you can rinse the excess from the area immediately. Worked very well with NO appreciable defects. Am I going to do this every wash? Hells no, but if you have a bunch of tar on your wheels from a season of driving, before you mount them up in spring, I think it's perfectly acceptable to do this if you have a layer of clear coat.

ANODIZED FINISH = be very careful and test on your own.
And as always with any type of solvent type cleaner work as efficiently as possible, pick small areas and remove the tar, then clean with water as quickly as you can to minimize exposure time and area.

Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-21-2010 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:53 AM
  #179  
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Really confused here, when I put my new Volk GTS on, what is the best way to keep them good looking, besides water and car wash soap?

Am I understanding correctly that when you have Volks and leave your car outside in the rain the lips on your rims will have water spots galore? This just isn't adding up.

Is there one universal safe wax/detailer to use on Volk's to remove these spots?
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:04 AM
  #180  
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I have a set of work eurolines I just bought, Ive read this thread and am a little nervous now on cleaning them. I have some Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer.. from what I read am I correct in understanding that this will be safe to use on my wheels.. barrels and all?

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