350z Roadster stance help!
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,316
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From: Northern California
As it's been stated throughout this thread, the "logical" way to "stance" - using your existing wheels, as stated you wish for - is by using spacers. While I'm NOT a fan of same due to the likely change in handling feel (due to "artificial" change in scrub radius), here's how to do this.
- Start by measuring the distance from the most outboard point of your tires to the fender lip (if you really want that "hella flush" look, you'll start by rolling the fenders all the way up and THEN measuring.)
- Next, you need to KNOW (or determine) the offset of your existing wheels. If you don't know this, remove the wheel and look for size markings on the back of the wheel or measure the offset if no markings exist.
- Plug the numbers into the tire width calculator (found under "Tools" on every forum page) and play with the variables (subtracting spacer sizes) until you're close to how much you want them to stick out, leaving adequate space from tire to fender lip to allow for fender clearance.
- Purchase spacers in that size, install, and voila, you're done.
Yes, this is something of an oversimplification but that's pretty much the procedure.
Personally, though, I'd get the correct wheel/tire sizes for what you want the car to look like. This gives you the look and minimal amount of scrub radius change because you've compensated for scrub by changing the actual footprint/width, hence, altered the centerline of the tire and wheel vis a vis the steering axis line.
NOTE: Lowering the car will change all of this so lower it first if that's your desire. This will likely add steps to this by your needing to add camber adjustment (front UCAs, camber arms out back.) You do NOT need coilovers for stance-only (actual performance enhancement be dammed.). Lowering springs will take care of this unless you're going for the "road-UFO" look, scraping as you go - in which case, you'll just turn down the springs to the right height with C/O's.
- Start by measuring the distance from the most outboard point of your tires to the fender lip (if you really want that "hella flush" look, you'll start by rolling the fenders all the way up and THEN measuring.)
- Next, you need to KNOW (or determine) the offset of your existing wheels. If you don't know this, remove the wheel and look for size markings on the back of the wheel or measure the offset if no markings exist.
- Plug the numbers into the tire width calculator (found under "Tools" on every forum page) and play with the variables (subtracting spacer sizes) until you're close to how much you want them to stick out, leaving adequate space from tire to fender lip to allow for fender clearance.
- Purchase spacers in that size, install, and voila, you're done.
Yes, this is something of an oversimplification but that's pretty much the procedure.
Personally, though, I'd get the correct wheel/tire sizes for what you want the car to look like. This gives you the look and minimal amount of scrub radius change because you've compensated for scrub by changing the actual footprint/width, hence, altered the centerline of the tire and wheel vis a vis the steering axis line.
NOTE: Lowering the car will change all of this so lower it first if that's your desire. This will likely add steps to this by your needing to add camber adjustment (front UCAs, camber arms out back.) You do NOT need coilovers for stance-only (actual performance enhancement be dammed.). Lowering springs will take care of this unless you're going for the "road-UFO" look, scraping as you go - in which case, you'll just turn down the springs to the right height with C/O's.
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 3,379
From: Northern California
Laff....
Mistuh Sparco, you know it's not about spittin' no wads of nahlejj.
It's about helping OP understand that achieving the look he wants isn't just about "slam it and make it fat". It's about doing it right the first time around, and preserving his tire/wheel investment as well as keeping the car reasonably safe and DRIVEABLE - facts so often overlooked for the sake of aesthetics and image.
I'm just Mistuh Boring to most I'd guess - a fact I can live with; but I want (and have) the confidence in my cars when I hit that apex, looks be dammed. Hahahahahahahahahaaaaaaaa....
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,400
Likes: 2,226
From: ZdayZ
@ OP
What i did? Enkei rpf1, 18s all around.
9.5 fr, 10.5 + 15 all.
Bridgestone 760s
265/35 fr
295/35 rr
bc daily driver. And not race car.
Since you've got new tires and wheels, drive those. Get spacers or not. ( they need to be put on with a torque wrench to be safe. 90 foot pounds)
@ MicBr0, I will be Ed if you'll be Jonny haha.
@ Sparco, Hope you enjoy a good, safe holiday!
jc
What i did? Enkei rpf1, 18s all around.
9.5 fr, 10.5 + 15 all.
Bridgestone 760s
265/35 fr
295/35 rr
bc daily driver. And not race car.
Since you've got new tires and wheels, drive those. Get spacers or not. ( they need to be put on with a torque wrench to be safe. 90 foot pounds)
@ MicBr0, I will be Ed if you'll be Jonny haha.
@ Sparco, Hope you enjoy a good, safe holiday!
jc
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: Miami, Florida
As it's been stated throughout this thread, the "logical" way to "stance" - using your existing wheels, as stated you wish for - is by using spacers. While I'm NOT a fan of same due to the likely change in handling feel (due to "artificial" change in scrub radius), here's how to do this.
- Start by measuring the distance from the most outboard point of your tires to the fender lip (if you really want that "hella flush" look, you'll start by rolling the fenders all the way up and THEN measuring.)
- Next, you need to KNOW (or determine) the offset of your existing wheels. If you don't know this, remove the wheel and look for size markings on the back of the wheel or measure the offset if no markings exist.
- Plug the numbers into the tire width calculator (found under "Tools" on every forum page) and play with the variables (subtracting spacer sizes) until you're close to how much you want them to stick out, leaving adequate space from tire to fender lip to allow for fender clearance.
- Purchase spacers in that size, install, and voila, you're done.
Yes, this is something of an oversimplification but that's pretty much the procedure.
Personally, though, I'd get the correct wheel/tire sizes for what you want the car to look like. This gives you the look and minimal amount of scrub radius change because you've compensated for scrub by changing the actual footprint/width, hence, altered the centerline of the tire and wheel vis a vis the steering axis line.
NOTE: Lowering the car will change all of this so lower it first if that's your desire. This will likely add steps to this by your needing to add camber adjustment (front UCAs, camber arms out back.) You do NOT need coilovers for stance-only (actual performance enhancement be dammed.). Lowering springs will take care of this unless you're going for the "road-UFO" look, scraping as you go - in which case, you'll just turn down the springs to the right height with C/O's.
- Start by measuring the distance from the most outboard point of your tires to the fender lip (if you really want that "hella flush" look, you'll start by rolling the fenders all the way up and THEN measuring.)
- Next, you need to KNOW (or determine) the offset of your existing wheels. If you don't know this, remove the wheel and look for size markings on the back of the wheel or measure the offset if no markings exist.
- Plug the numbers into the tire width calculator (found under "Tools" on every forum page) and play with the variables (subtracting spacer sizes) until you're close to how much you want them to stick out, leaving adequate space from tire to fender lip to allow for fender clearance.
- Purchase spacers in that size, install, and voila, you're done.
Yes, this is something of an oversimplification but that's pretty much the procedure.
Personally, though, I'd get the correct wheel/tire sizes for what you want the car to look like. This gives you the look and minimal amount of scrub radius change because you've compensated for scrub by changing the actual footprint/width, hence, altered the centerline of the tire and wheel vis a vis the steering axis line.
NOTE: Lowering the car will change all of this so lower it first if that's your desire. This will likely add steps to this by your needing to add camber adjustment (front UCAs, camber arms out back.) You do NOT need coilovers for stance-only (actual performance enhancement be dammed.). Lowering springs will take care of this unless you're going for the "road-UFO" look, scraping as you go - in which case, you'll just turn down the springs to the right height with C/O's.
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 3,379
From: Northern California
@ OP
What i did? Enkei rpf1, 18s all around.
9.5 fr, 10.5 + 15 all.
Bridgestone 760s
265/35 fr
295/35 rr
bc daily driver. And not race car.
Since you've got new tires and wheels, drive those. Get spacers or not. ( they need to be put on with a torque wrench to be safe. 90 foot pounds)
@ MicBr0, I will be Ed if you'll be Jonny haha.
@ Sparco, Hope you enjoy a good, safe holiday!
jc
What i did? Enkei rpf1, 18s all around.
9.5 fr, 10.5 + 15 all.
Bridgestone 760s
265/35 fr
295/35 rr
bc daily driver. And not race car.
Since you've got new tires and wheels, drive those. Get spacers or not. ( they need to be put on with a torque wrench to be safe. 90 foot pounds)
@ MicBr0, I will be Ed if you'll be Jonny haha.
@ Sparco, Hope you enjoy a good, safe holiday!
jc
Or, if you learn to cuss more, Sid The Cussing Rabbit.
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,400
Likes: 2,226
From: ZdayZ
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 3,379
From: Northern California
If you truly want low on Eibach, go Sportline....wayyyy lower than ProKit.
Bought mine at Autoanything for 481.21 in July of 2012 for reference
Those wheels are not worth saving, sell them and go with something else
Do yourself a favor and not write "stancing" anymore, that is not a word. You can have an aggressive fitting wheel and there are plenty of threads about how to do that
Do yourself a favor and not write "stancing" anymore, that is not a word. You can have an aggressive fitting wheel and there are plenty of threads about how to do that
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: Miami, Florida
Will do but I really like my rims tho... I wanna do what chad did. 25 MM spacers with sport line eibach kir
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: Miami, Florida
