TOP problem
#101
04 top wont open
Thanks for all the info guys. Im helping a lady coworker of mine.
She has an 04 Roadster.
like some on here, windows go down, pasenger seat goes forward and then a clicking sound.
sounds like a solenoid or relay switch inside the driver door.
any DIY guys here?
i want to help her and fix it myself. Car is out of warranty.
please help, thanks jason
any help is appreciated.
She has an 04 Roadster.
like some on here, windows go down, pasenger seat goes forward and then a clicking sound.
sounds like a solenoid or relay switch inside the driver door.
any DIY guys here?
i want to help her and fix it myself. Car is out of warranty.
please help, thanks jason
any help is appreciated.
#102
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I hate to say it but it sounds like her top is doing the same thing mine did before I took it in this week. The clicking sound is the 5th bow actuator motor latch releasing the 5th bow from the Tonnea cover. The mechanic took the time to show me the 5th bow and what it will take to start the replacement and he will have to start by taking the bottom top molding off the rear and then drilling out the rivets holding the 5th bow frame on the top under the bottom lip of the back of the top. It does not sound like and easy DIY job.
The good news about mine today is the Nissan service manager called me today to tell me that the mechanic found after finishing installing my 6 speed transmission and looking more closely at the top. He found that the top problem is not only my bands but also my 5th bow needs replacing and it's servos. He also recommended going ahead and replacing the loose bands that he mentioned a few days ago because they are not as tight as they should be and it could cause problems down the road by damaging the 5 bow and other parts of the top frame. The good new is the 5th bow and servos replacement and my 6 speed transmission are all under my extended gold Nissan warranty! I believe my extended warranty just paid for itself a couple of times over.
Thank god I listened to the service manager that recommended buying the extended Nissan warranty before my bumper to bumper warranty ran out.
Brian
The good news about mine today is the Nissan service manager called me today to tell me that the mechanic found after finishing installing my 6 speed transmission and looking more closely at the top. He found that the top problem is not only my bands but also my 5th bow needs replacing and it's servos. He also recommended going ahead and replacing the loose bands that he mentioned a few days ago because they are not as tight as they should be and it could cause problems down the road by damaging the 5 bow and other parts of the top frame. The good new is the 5th bow and servos replacement and my 6 speed transmission are all under my extended gold Nissan warranty! I believe my extended warranty just paid for itself a couple of times over.
Thank god I listened to the service manager that recommended buying the extended Nissan warranty before my bumper to bumper warranty ran out.
Brian
#103
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Got my Z back this afternoon and just in time for sunny Texas weather this weekend. The top works great now and my new tranny shifts like butter. I'm happy even though I had to pay for some of the parts.
#104
ANY Bay AREA, NOR CAL Roadsters??
Any norcal bay area roadsters with the convertible top problem? please let me know what dealer worke don your roadster. Id rather go to the same dealer that has some experience in this problem. thank you
jason
jason
#105
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Well, like all others, i just started experiencing issues with mine. The top goes down all the way and locks in but the the little light stays on. On putting the top back up, it appears as though the last part of the top, the peice that goes down, statys up. I have to play with the button, down, up down up for it go down properly.
I will try to grease the mechanical parts first and see where that gets me.
My roadster is an 05 with 22k miles on it.
Wonder how many people need to be on for class action status
I will try to grease the mechanical parts first and see where that gets me.
My roadster is an 05 with 22k miles on it.
Wonder how many people need to be on for class action status
#106
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Is there a good DIY on replacmenet of the 5th bow motor? Parts where to get from? I read in another thread that the motor looks exactly like the windows motor.....
I've search all other net for a good DIY but have yet to come across one.
I've search all other net for a good DIY but have yet to come across one.
#107
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More roof woes...
Hi Guys,
I'm new to the forum, but this definitely sounds like group therapy.
"Hi, my name is Bob and I have a ZR roof problem..."
So, yeah, I've been down the 5th Bow Actuator replacement road with "AAA-certified" shops who we're clueless. (Forget the dealership -- they can't even replace a window motor correctly!) "Our techs are better than the delearship techs." Yeah. Uh-huh. I have the service manual and I told them to check the 5BA when I brought it in and they nodded blankly. A week later I got "Hey, we found another set of motors below the rear window." DOH!!!!
Anyways, I just got thru replacing my alternator (I've got an 04.) which oddly seems to have gone out not long after the $2,600 5BA fiasco. What I've noticed -- both before and after the replaced alternator -- is that, occasionally, the storage lid seems to stick when trying to open and the engine dies. It happened this morning when I came to work, but then worked fine at lunch. (It's prolly 55 this morning and 65 at lunch.)
So, I'm thinking to myself, "Self, I wonder if the mechanism gets sticky and the motors are drawing too much current and frying the alternator?". But then I thinks again, "Self, shouldn't there be a fuse protecting the alternator?" I've gotta re-check the manual...
Anyways, sorry for the diatribe, but basically, I haven't seen this problem in the forums, so I was wondering if anyone else had this kind of problem? Any help / advice would be appreciated. If nothing else, this is good / cheap therapy. I'll also have to try to find that Primus Lube spray...
Thanks for reading,
Bob
I'm new to the forum, but this definitely sounds like group therapy.
"Hi, my name is Bob and I have a ZR roof problem..."
So, yeah, I've been down the 5th Bow Actuator replacement road with "AAA-certified" shops who we're clueless. (Forget the dealership -- they can't even replace a window motor correctly!) "Our techs are better than the delearship techs." Yeah. Uh-huh. I have the service manual and I told them to check the 5BA when I brought it in and they nodded blankly. A week later I got "Hey, we found another set of motors below the rear window." DOH!!!!
Anyways, I just got thru replacing my alternator (I've got an 04.) which oddly seems to have gone out not long after the $2,600 5BA fiasco. What I've noticed -- both before and after the replaced alternator -- is that, occasionally, the storage lid seems to stick when trying to open and the engine dies. It happened this morning when I came to work, but then worked fine at lunch. (It's prolly 55 this morning and 65 at lunch.)
So, I'm thinking to myself, "Self, I wonder if the mechanism gets sticky and the motors are drawing too much current and frying the alternator?". But then I thinks again, "Self, shouldn't there be a fuse protecting the alternator?" I've gotta re-check the manual...
Anyways, sorry for the diatribe, but basically, I haven't seen this problem in the forums, so I was wondering if anyone else had this kind of problem? Any help / advice would be appreciated. If nothing else, this is good / cheap therapy. I'll also have to try to find that Primus Lube spray...
Thanks for reading,
Bob
#108
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Convertible top problem - Here's a DIY solution.
Hello every one.
A friend of mine has a 2004 350Z and his top works perfectly except for when it folds down into the storage compartment it sticks out about 4 inches and the storage cover lid closes but it can't close all the way due to the top not fully folding enough.
It was taken to the dealer 3 times and they said it needed a new top assy. well it was under warranty, so they fixed it and sure enough it happened again. this time the warranty was expired.
I went over there and looked at it for about an hour, cycling the top open and closed. Like others here in the forum I noticed that there is a bar that supports the top when closed to keep the top from sagging inward from rain, water and snow, the bar is free floating (it moves freely forwards and backwards) and is in the forward position when the top is closed, it has 2 black elastic bands/straps that pull it to the rear position when the top stows in the storage compartment. when these bands stretch out of shape (they do all the time and are made of a cheap material) the bar will stay in the forward position and it jams the frame assy. and it wont allow it to fully stow.
they are accessible from inside the car, they are held in place with 2 rivets and a small metal plate (on each end) to the bar and to another portion of the actual frame assy.
All you need to do is to go down to your local sewing\fabric supply store and purchase some black high quality elastic (waist band) and drill out the rivets and attach the new elastic with new rivets.
Compared to the dealer price of 410.00 (parts and labor) this will set you back
aprox. 10.00 dollars if you have a drill and pop-rivet gun. I bought a rivet gun with assorted rivets for 20.00 at my local auto parts store.
The top now works great.
The reason for these bands failing is that they are always in the stretched position when the top is closed, and with the heat and humidty and the fact that they are super thin they fail in just a few months.
I even have the complete service manual but it doesnt even talk about this problem under troubleshooting section. it you need a copy of the complete service manual you can get it in PDF format with all files in a zip folder at *********
I hope that this helps anyone whose top is not fully storing in it storage compartment with the lid trying to close but can't the last few inches.
Happy Cruiz'n
Joseph
A friend of mine has a 2004 350Z and his top works perfectly except for when it folds down into the storage compartment it sticks out about 4 inches and the storage cover lid closes but it can't close all the way due to the top not fully folding enough.
It was taken to the dealer 3 times and they said it needed a new top assy. well it was under warranty, so they fixed it and sure enough it happened again. this time the warranty was expired.
I went over there and looked at it for about an hour, cycling the top open and closed. Like others here in the forum I noticed that there is a bar that supports the top when closed to keep the top from sagging inward from rain, water and snow, the bar is free floating (it moves freely forwards and backwards) and is in the forward position when the top is closed, it has 2 black elastic bands/straps that pull it to the rear position when the top stows in the storage compartment. when these bands stretch out of shape (they do all the time and are made of a cheap material) the bar will stay in the forward position and it jams the frame assy. and it wont allow it to fully stow.
they are accessible from inside the car, they are held in place with 2 rivets and a small metal plate (on each end) to the bar and to another portion of the actual frame assy.
All you need to do is to go down to your local sewing\fabric supply store and purchase some black high quality elastic (waist band) and drill out the rivets and attach the new elastic with new rivets.
Compared to the dealer price of 410.00 (parts and labor) this will set you back
aprox. 10.00 dollars if you have a drill and pop-rivet gun. I bought a rivet gun with assorted rivets for 20.00 at my local auto parts store.
The top now works great.
The reason for these bands failing is that they are always in the stretched position when the top is closed, and with the heat and humidty and the fact that they are super thin they fail in just a few months.
I even have the complete service manual but it doesnt even talk about this problem under troubleshooting section. it you need a copy of the complete service manual you can get it in PDF format with all files in a zip folder at *********
I hope that this helps anyone whose top is not fully storing in it storage compartment with the lid trying to close but can't the last few inches.
Happy Cruiz'n
Joseph
Last edited by josephscarr; 06-25-2009 at 06:30 AM. Reason: forgot to add link
#109
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Here is my new problem. I put the top down yesterday going home from work. It started to go real slow as the top was doing it thing in the 5th bow session. I was thinking damn.....I hope the motors are not going out.
So I got home...and into the garage, and then I attempted to put up the top. the trunk lid opened, and the top came out and it attached to the A-Pillar...and then it got stuck where the 5th Bow is...It would not close to in the back.
I used WD40 and some white lithium grease and it finally worked! I was able to close the top and it locked! Yeah!
I did not try to open it up again for fear I would never be able to close the top.
I am in San Antonio and it was about 95 to 100 degrees outside. I have never had a top problem till now. I had the ragtop portion of my top replaced in 2007.
I have a 2004.5 350ZR with about 95000 miles...yeah I drive my car...hehe!
I have never had the alternator replaced.
What is the current price to have the 5th bow motor replaced?
Can you just have the motor replaced or do you have to have the whole 5th bow assembly replaced?
Please help guys!
I put my top down everyday, unless it is too hot!
I got a good dealership to take it to here in San Antonio...but I don't want to spend $2000 to fix it..
Thanks,
Copperhead
So I got home...and into the garage, and then I attempted to put up the top. the trunk lid opened, and the top came out and it attached to the A-Pillar...and then it got stuck where the 5th Bow is...It would not close to in the back.
I used WD40 and some white lithium grease and it finally worked! I was able to close the top and it locked! Yeah!
I did not try to open it up again for fear I would never be able to close the top.
I am in San Antonio and it was about 95 to 100 degrees outside. I have never had a top problem till now. I had the ragtop portion of my top replaced in 2007.
I have a 2004.5 350ZR with about 95000 miles...yeah I drive my car...hehe!
I have never had the alternator replaced.
What is the current price to have the 5th bow motor replaced?
Can you just have the motor replaced or do you have to have the whole 5th bow assembly replaced?
Please help guys!
I put my top down everyday, unless it is too hot!
I got a good dealership to take it to here in San Antonio...but I don't want to spend $2000 to fix it..
Thanks,
Copperhead
#110
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Hey Copperhead,
I believe the 5th Bow and the motor(s) are an integral piece. I know I was forced to replace the whole thing. I'm thinking that part was about $1,300 -- if memory serves. Not a good thing...
Best of Luck,
Bob
I believe the 5th Bow and the motor(s) are an integral piece. I know I was forced to replace the whole thing. I'm thinking that part was about $1,300 -- if memory serves. Not a good thing...
Best of Luck,
Bob
#111
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Here is my new problem. I put the top down yesterday going home from work. It started to go real slow as the top was doing it thing in the 5th bow session. I was thinking damn.....I hope the motors are not going out.
So I got home...and into the garage, and then I attempted to put up the top. the trunk lid opened, and the top came out and it attached to the A-Pillar...and then it got stuck where the 5th Bow is...It would not close to in the back.
I used WD40 and some white lithium grease and it finally worked! I was able to close the top and it locked! Yeah!
I did not try to open it up again for fear I would never be able to close the top.
I am in San Antonio and it was about 95 to 100 degrees outside. I have never had a top problem till now. I had the ragtop portion of my top replaced in 2007.
I have a 2004.5 350ZR with about 95000 miles...yeah I drive my car...hehe!
I have never had the alternator replaced.
What is the current price to have the 5th bow motor replaced?
Can you just have the motor replaced or do you have to have the whole 5th bow assembly replaced?
Please help guys!
I put my top down everyday, unless it is too hot!
I got a good dealership to take it to here in San Antonio...but I don't want to spend $2000 to fix it..
Thanks,
Copperhead
So I got home...and into the garage, and then I attempted to put up the top. the trunk lid opened, and the top came out and it attached to the A-Pillar...and then it got stuck where the 5th Bow is...It would not close to in the back.
I used WD40 and some white lithium grease and it finally worked! I was able to close the top and it locked! Yeah!
I did not try to open it up again for fear I would never be able to close the top.
I am in San Antonio and it was about 95 to 100 degrees outside. I have never had a top problem till now. I had the ragtop portion of my top replaced in 2007.
I have a 2004.5 350ZR with about 95000 miles...yeah I drive my car...hehe!
I have never had the alternator replaced.
What is the current price to have the 5th bow motor replaced?
Can you just have the motor replaced or do you have to have the whole 5th bow assembly replaced?
Please help guys!
I put my top down everyday, unless it is too hot!
I got a good dealership to take it to here in San Antonio...but I don't want to spend $2000 to fix it..
Thanks,
Copperhead
#113
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It seems as if a lot of people are having top problems. I was interested in trading in my 04 coupe for an 04 350zr but this thread is making me think twice. Is it worth the risk guys?
#114
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#115
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I bought it at Walmart but they don't carry it any more.
Here's a mfgt. link http://www.iqproducts.com/our_produc...cts_primis.htm
Call 1-281-444-6454 ext 0
8/5pm CST
Here's a mfgt. link http://www.iqproducts.com/our_produc...cts_primis.htm
Call 1-281-444-6454 ext 0
8/5pm CST
Last edited by sluggoZ; 07-20-2009 at 03:17 PM. Reason: adding more info
#116
http://img30.imageshack.us/i/roof2.jpg/
http://img518.imageshack.us/i/roof3.jpg/
I read some previous post it seems like I may have a different issue.
Basically what is happening is when I am going to close the top it runs perfectly until the latch at the rear is poised to go down and lock in. It stops, If I press the close button repeatedly it will go down maybe an extra inch but it leaves me with a quite unsightly gap.
I went over to a couple shops and the dealership even and a quick examination yielded no anwsers only more speculation. 1) Possible Lubrication issues 2) A sensor out of whack 3) General Wear and Tear
Also I read a few forms about the alignment being out of whack, is it possible that this has some how come out of alignment?
I am sorry I don't currently have photo's of it but as soon as I get out of the office I will take some and post them so it's a bit more clear
Also I'm a Sales rep for a lubrication company if you guys are having any problems finding a lubrication let me know and I will see what I can do for you.
Regards,
Ty Beal
http://img518.imageshack.us/i/roof3.jpg/
I read some previous post it seems like I may have a different issue.
Basically what is happening is when I am going to close the top it runs perfectly until the latch at the rear is poised to go down and lock in. It stops, If I press the close button repeatedly it will go down maybe an extra inch but it leaves me with a quite unsightly gap.
I went over to a couple shops and the dealership even and a quick examination yielded no anwsers only more speculation. 1) Possible Lubrication issues 2) A sensor out of whack 3) General Wear and Tear
Also I read a few forms about the alignment being out of whack, is it possible that this has some how come out of alignment?
I am sorry I don't currently have photo's of it but as soon as I get out of the office I will take some and post them so it's a bit more clear
Also I'm a Sales rep for a lubrication company if you guys are having any problems finding a lubrication let me know and I will see what I can do for you.
Regards,
Ty Beal
Last edited by TyBeal; 07-22-2009 at 05:04 AM. Reason: Added Pics
#117
Any Bay Area California roadsters with this top problem? Please help, we are looking for a place to take the roadster too to have the convertible top motor replaced. Where have you taken yours? We are looking for an experienced place that has done it. Please help!
#118
Just got done reading all the posts on this, and like most other Roadster owners. I also am having issues with the 5th Bow Motor on an '04 Z. I contacted the local dealer and they said that the 5th bow motor and 5th bow are a complete unit, $1800+tax to fix. I heard someone somewhere mention replacing just the motor itself. Has anyone been able to do this? If not I am going to perform open heart on my Z here in the next few days to examine the offending 5th bow actuator/motor and see if I can't get at it. From the schematics it doesn't look too complex. I'll take pictures and post if I manage to get anywhere with it.
If anyone already has actual pictures (not schematic drawings) of the 5th bow assembly and motor please post. It will no doubt be helpful.
Cheers
If anyone already has actual pictures (not schematic drawings) of the 5th bow assembly and motor please post. It will no doubt be helpful.
Cheers
#119
Thanks for the update guys. I'm on my third top and 1.5 years later its still working. Both times I had the seperation issue. The motors seem strong.
I wouldn't mind the issues (all cars have them), but I can't stand Nissan service. You go in there almost feeling guilty....like you are asking for a favour.
I wouldn't mind the issues (all cars have them), but I can't stand Nissan service. You go in there almost feeling guilty....like you are asking for a favour.
Skyhiguy and KK, when you contact a lawyer let me know. Nissan only recognize problems on new productions. I have all my maintenance records.
Shakyj
#120
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Reviving an old thread. Had the 5th bow motor and straps replaced about 3 months ago. Now the top intermittently just clicks and the opening sequence doesn't start. The dealership that did the 5th bow work gave me estimates of $2300 to replace the "actuators" (whatever the hell those are), to $8500 to replace the top, frame, actuators and whatever else they feel like. They said that the frame is out of alignment by a couple of "millimeters" and that is putting stress on everything.
I find that hard to believe.
I find that hard to believe.