Go Back   MY350Z.COM Forums > Do It Yourself Guides > Brakes & Suspension (DIY)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Photos FAQ Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read ExperienceUsed CarsGarageVendor Directory
Search


Welcome to my350z.com!
Welcome to my350z.com.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-12-2008, 06:26 PM   #1
hndumafia
Registered User
 
hndumafia's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,925
Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Today's Activity: 1.8%
Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8%
Send a message via AIM to hndumafia
Default Wheel Hub Assembly (wheel bearing) replacement - FRONT - HOW TO

Well, after almost 6 years of ownership, as well as membership on this site, I've decided to give back. I haven't seen a how to for replacing the front wheel hub assembly on the 350Z, so I decided to write one up since I was replacing mine.

This was done on my car, which is a 2003 Track model. Steps might be different on cars not equipped with the Brembo brakes.

Additionally, I take no responsibility for what happens to your car if you try to do this on your own. This i merely a documentation of my experience replacing the wheel hub assembly on my car.



Parts and Tools Needed:
17mm socket
22mm socket
socket wrench
torque wrench (if you want to be accurate when re-tightening bolts)
small extension for socket wrench
floor jack
jack stand
zip ties or string or wire
a breaker bar/cheater bar of some sort is helpful

Step 1:
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel/s where you will be replacing the hub assembly.

Step 2:
Jack up the car and place jack stands. I have to drive onto a block of wood to get my car high enough to fit the jack under the side skirt. (Note: if you are unsure of where to jack up the car from or where to place the jack stands, there is a picture in the service manual, and also floating around on this site.)

Step 3:
Completely loosen lug nuts and remove wheel.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 4:
Remove the two 22mm bolts holding the brake caliper in place. I found it difficult to remove with just my 1/2" drive socket wrench, so I used a pipe on the wrench to provide extra leverage.

To provide some support for the brake caliper, I zip-tied it to the top of the control arm.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


Step 5:
Remove the rotor from the hub. Some people have claimed to have trouble removing their rotor, but mine slide right off. If you have trouble I recommend figuring out a solution with a 2x4 and mallet.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 6:
Remove the four 17mm bolts that hold the hub assembly in place. They are located behind the hub assembly. One of the bolts is difficult to access due to the steering knuckle being in the way. I jacked up the suspension a bit to try and make it easier, but am not really sure if it made any difference. You don't need to actually remove the bolt completely anyway so it's not a problem.

The brake shield will also come off, so note its orientation.

Caution: When removing the four bolts, be careful not to have the hub assembly fall off the car and onto your foot while wearing sandals. The hub assembly is pretty heavy, and will hurt your foot (ask me how I know! )

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 7:
Put it all back together with the new hub assembly!

Torque specs are:
Four 17mm bolts holding hub assembly: 78.5-98.1nm/ 58-72ft-lb
Two 22mm bolts holding brake caliper: 151-152nm/ 111.4-112.1lb-ft

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 8:
Take car for test drive and enjoy improved driving.



Step 9:
Kick back and enjoy a brewsky of your choice (of in my case what was given to me for free... thanks w0ady!)

Click the image to open in full size.


The car drives soooo much better now that I replaced the faulty/worn bearing. Before I had serious noise coming from that bearing. It sounded like my friends lifted truck on off roading tires, but worse.

My brake pedal also feels much improved. The engagement of the brakes is way more solid and the pedal is much less mushy.

Overall, this is a pretty simple DIY. This was my first time replacing a part like this, and it took me about 45 min to replace the front passenger side assembly, start to finish. If you can lift the car and remove the wheel, you should be able to replace the hub assembly.
__________________
03 track - 11 e92 m3
hndumafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 08:11 AM   #2
burntZ
Registered User
 
burntZ's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ocala, florida
Posts: 300
Points: 3,508, Level: 37
Points: 3,508, Level: 37 Points: 3,508, Level: 37 Points: 3,508, Level: 37
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

Excellent write up!

I have this on the to do list - i have an occasional nasty grinding under load which must be the bearing and REALLY didn't want to shovel a pile of money to the stealership - this seems definetly do able!

good pics!

Thanks!

[note to self - wear protective shoes while dropping things on toes... )
burntZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 11:48 AM   #3
QuicksilverZ33
Registered User
 
QuicksilverZ33's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: east coast
Posts: 919
Points: 3,068, Level: 34
Points: 3,068, Level: 34 Points: 3,068, Level: 34 Points: 3,068, Level: 34
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

Thanks for the write-up...plan on doing this as well...At how many miles did you decide to replace the hub assemblies?
__________________
04 350Z
QuicksilverZ33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 02:37 PM   #4
hndumafia
Registered User
 
hndumafia's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,925
Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Today's Activity: 1.8%
Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8%
Send a message via AIM to hndumafia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuicksilverZ33 View Post
Thanks for the write-up...plan on doing this as well...At how many miles did you decide to replace the hub assemblies?
I have about 47k miles on the car. Wear on the parts should depend on driving characteristics. I have used my car to auto-x as well as participate in open road course days at the Gainesville raceway road course (smaller and lower speeds than a real track).

Also, just to clarify, I only replaced one of the assemblies. Some people state that you might as well change them all together, but I didn't see the point since the other bearings weren't giving me any problems. Also, I could have definitely benefited from replacing this earlier. I originally thought the noise I had was a result of my tires (kdw2). But once I replaced the tires, I realized that the noise was coming from somewhere else. Sucks, because I probably would have bought another set of the kdw2s if I had known.

It is easy to see if you have bearing wear by testing it for axial play. Lift up the side where you suspect a problem, hold the tire on the top and bottom and see if there is any free play pushing in and out on the top and bottom of the wheel.
__________________
03 track - 11 e92 m3
hndumafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 05:58 PM   #5
zfokaiz
Registered User
 
zfokaiz's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 52
Points: 1,282, Level: 19
Points: 1,282, Level: 19 Points: 1,282, Level: 19 Points: 1,282, Level: 19
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

Thanks for the write-up. I just ordered new ones for my '06 base, should be here tuesday.
most definetly doing this one myself.
zfokaiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 08:39 PM   #6
davidv
Registered User

 
Trader Score: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 42,795
Points: 11,308, Level: 70
Points: 11,308, Level: 70 Points: 11,308, Level: 70 Points: 11,308, Level: 70
Today's Activity: 0.4%
Today's Activity: 0.4% Today's Activity: 0.4% Today's Activity: 0.4%
Default

Thanks for the photos and detailed steps. Very informative. You are a valuable member.
__________________
370Z 2009 Sport Package
davidv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 10:15 PM   #7
QuicksilverZ33
Registered User
 
QuicksilverZ33's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: east coast
Posts: 919
Points: 3,068, Level: 34
Points: 3,068, Level: 34 Points: 3,068, Level: 34 Points: 3,068, Level: 34
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

If you don't mind me asking, how much are the new hubs?
__________________
04 350Z
QuicksilverZ33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2008, 02:03 PM   #8
hndumafia
Registered User
 
hndumafia's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,925
Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Today's Activity: 1.8%
Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8%
Send a message via AIM to hndumafia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuicksilverZ33 View Post
If you don't mind me asking, how much are the new hubs?
I bought it from autopartswarehouse.com. It is a Timken replacement part. Cost is $133, and has free shipping. You can buy OEM replacements also, but based on what other members said on this site, the Timkens should be just as good, if not exactly the same.

Here is the link..
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ350ZQQTimkenQQWheel_Hub_AssemblyQQ20032006QQTMHA59 0027.html
__________________
03 track - 11 e92 m3
hndumafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2008, 09:25 PM   #9
SponGer
Registered User
 
SponGer's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: only in San Diego
Posts: 856
Points: 3,916, Level: 39
Points: 3,916, Level: 39 Points: 3,916, Level: 39 Points: 3,916, Level: 39
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

Thanks for the write-up. Anyone know if there is one for the rear?
__________________
G35 6MT: BREMBO|BORLA|JWT|HOTCHKIS|EIBACH|ICHIBA|ECLIPSE AUDIO|OEM RAYS 19S|CLEAN
SponGer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2008, 03:53 AM   #10
hndumafia
Registered User
 
hndumafia's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,925
Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Today's Activity: 1.8%
Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8%
Send a message via AIM to hndumafia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SponGer View Post
Thanks for the write-up. Anyone know if there is one for the rear?
haven't seen a write-up for the rear either. The rear isn't sold as an assembly, so you would need to pull the hub and pull the bearing. I have seen people say they will just pull the hub assembly off, and take it to a shop to get the old bearing pulled and the new bearing installed.
__________________
03 track - 11 e92 m3
hndumafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2009, 07:05 PM   #11
domepeace
Registered User
 
Trader Score: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: elgin, IL
Posts: 19
Default

any1 know where to get a hub for a lil cheeper on auto parts its 200$
domepeace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2009, 12:27 PM   #12
hndumafia
Registered User
 
hndumafia's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,925
Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Today's Activity: 1.8%
Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8%
Send a message via AIM to hndumafia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by domepeace View Post
any1 know where to get a hub for a lil cheeper on auto parts its 200$
if you do a google search, you can find the hub assembly for around $165. Unfortunately, it looks as if the prices have increased.
__________________
03 track - 11 e92 m3
hndumafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2009, 11:00 AM   #13
guitman32
Registered User
 
guitman32's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South FL
Posts: 1,012
Points: 3,790, Level: 38
Points: 3,790, Level: 38 Points: 3,790, Level: 38 Points: 3,790, Level: 38
Today's Activity: 12.6%
Today's Activity: 12.6% Today's Activity: 12.6% Today's Activity: 12.6%
Default

What pretty new hubs.

Thanks for the writeup and contributing to the Z community Rmeister.

Now invest in some GOOD BEER!!!
__________________
SB.Track.JWT.Enkei.Motordyne.Nismo.Hotchkis.Koni.RS*R.PMu.St optech
guitman32 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2009, 07:58 PM   #14
BallZdeepNYC
Registered User
 
Trader Score: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 987
Points: 2,613, Level: 31
Points: 2,613, Level: 31 Points: 2,613, Level: 31 Points: 2,613, Level: 31
Today's Activity: 1.6%
Today's Activity: 1.6% Today's Activity: 1.6% Today's Activity: 1.6%
Default

is this the same for non brembos????
BallZdeepNYC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2009, 08:07 PM   #15
hndumafia
Registered User
 
hndumafia's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,925
Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53 Points: 6,682, Level: 53
Today's Activity: 1.8%
Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8% Today's Activity: 1.8%
Send a message via AIM to hndumafia
Default

The procedure for removing the caliper is likely different. The hub and bearing assembly should be the same though.
__________________
03 track - 11 e92 m3
hndumafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2009, 09:18 AM   #16
Billz
Registered User
 
Trader Score: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: NY
Posts: 22
Points: 3,057, Level: 34
Points: 3,057, Level: 34 Points: 3,057, Level: 34 Points: 3,057, Level: 34
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

I'm in the process of changing my wheel hub assembly. Rotors on both sides are stuck. Any ideas on how to take them out since they're not lisding right off?
Billz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2009, 09:40 AM   #17
BallZdeepNYC
Registered User
 
Trader Score: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 987
Points: 2,613, Level: 31
Points: 2,613, Level: 31 Points: 2,613, Level: 31 Points: 2,613, Level: 31
Today's Activity: 1.6%
Today's Activity: 1.6% Today's Activity: 1.6% Today's Activity: 1.6%
Default

liquid wrench and a hammer
BallZdeepNYC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2009, 09:41 AM   #18
SuperBlack350z
Registered User
 
SuperBlack350z's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (58)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 8,512
Points: 7,681, Level: 58
Points: 7,681, Level: 58 Points: 7,681, Level: 58 Points: 7,681, Level: 58
Today's Activity: 0.4%
Today's Activity: 0.4% Today's Activity: 0.4% Today's Activity: 0.4%
Send a message via AIM to SuperBlack350z
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz View Post
I'm in the process of changing my wheel hub assembly. Rotors on both sides are stuck. Any ideas on how to take them out since they're not lisding right off?
a block of wood and a hammer will do the trick. put the piece of wood behind the rotor and hit the piece of wood. Do it all around the rotor until it falls off.
__________________
▀▄..▄▀▄..▄▀..█.................▄▀▀▄.............▄▀▀▄........ ..............▄..............................▄▀▀▀▄
....█.....█......█▀█..█▄█......▀▄......█▀█.....▀▄.......▄▀▀▄ ...▄..▄...▄...▄▄▄...▄..▄...▄▀▀▄...▀...▄▀
..........................▄..█......▄ ▀▄...█▄█........▀▄....█▀▀.....█▀.....█...█..█...█..█....▀▄.. .......█
............................▀........▀▄▄▀.............▀▄▄▀.. ..▀▀......▀.......▀..▀▀▀....▀▀▀..▀▄▄▀.......▄
SuperBlack350z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2009, 02:33 PM   #19
guitman32
Registered User
 
guitman32's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South FL
Posts: 1,012
Points: 3,790, Level: 38
Points: 3,790, Level: 38 Points: 3,790, Level: 38 Points: 3,790, Level: 38
Today's Activity: 12.6%
Today's Activity: 12.6% Today's Activity: 12.6% Today's Activity: 12.6%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBlack350z View Post
a block of wood and a hammer will do the trick. put the piece of wood behind the rotor and hit the piece of wood. Do it all around the rotor until it falls off.
If it's the fronts you're talking about, then yes apply a little even force with a block of wood and you should be ok. If you're referring to the rear, read on:

REAR ROTOR REMOVAL:

Your bit about hammering the rear rotors off (and the other comment about soaking in WD40 or PB Blaster) are incorrect. No need for hammering or any brute force at all:

http://www.my350z.com/forum/autocros...ml#post3173770

"You need to loosen the parking brake shoes. There is a little rubber plug on your rotor. Align this plug so it is at 11 or 12 o'clock. Then remove the plug. Now, with a flathead screwdriver, you need to turn the adjuster to loosen the parking brake shoes. If you do this, the rotor will come off freely just as the fronts. I see too many threads of people pounding away, when that is totally unnecessary and probably damages your parking brake system and rotors. The FSM is your friend:

Click the image to open in full size.

Once you have replaced your rotor or completed whatever work you are doing, you need to re-adjust the parking brake. From the FSM:

Click the image to open in full size.

I thought I would add that it takes quite a few turns to loosen the rotor, so just keep at it!! Also, a flashlight helps in locating the adjuster if you have never adjusted it before...no pounding necessary!!"
__________________
SB.Track.JWT.Enkei.Motordyne.Nismo.Hotchkis.Koni.RS*R.PMu.St optech
guitman32 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2009, 03:20 PM   #20
SA Z-boi
Registered User
 
SA Z-boi's Avatar
 
Trader Score: (78)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: S.A. TX/SO-CAL
Posts: 1,701
Points: 3,732, Level: 38
Points: 3,732, Level: 38 Points: 3,732, Level: 38 Points: 3,732, Level: 38
Today's Activity: 0%
Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0% Today's Activity: 0%
Default

I just hammered the crap out of my old hub bearing lol
__________________
03 PPW PERFORMANCE Z|HKS |JT-X|JWT|CRAWFORD|RH-PRO R5|8000K HID|ULTIMATE RACING|EVO-R|JAPTRIX|NITTO|MASTERGRADE|ING +1 N-SPEC|NISMO|TANABE|STILLEN|SPC|
SA Z-boi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2009, 03:20 PM
MyG37
Infiniti G37




Paid Advertisement
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
2004, 350z, assembly, bearing, bolts, florida, front, g35, gainesville, hub, hubs, infiniti, installed, pull, replace, replacement, replacing, wheel



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off
Forum Jump

ADVERTISING
INSURANCE CENTER

All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:59 PM.


Advertise on MY350Z.COM - Terms of Service - Privacy Statement - Jobs
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2002 - 2008, MY350Z.COM All Rights Reserved.

Admin control Panel Backup