From what I remember I put the car jack under the spindle and pushed it up a bit to get a straight shot ar the bolt.

 

I had to dremel it...I cut the head off of the bolt...I was able then thread it out with my finger...I guess the fugger's head was rusted on pretty good that not even liquid wrench could get it out...what an experience..any idea if I can get the new bolt at home depot or is it more of something I should be getting at nissan?

 

For nuts and bolts that are structural or hold on important things, like, wheels and brakes, i like to pay through the nose from the OEM.

 

Good point! I ordered from Nissan dealer directly. Just FYI..instead of ordering stuff like this through websites and paying crazy shipping fees, you can call up different dealers for pricing. You will get the bolt for same pricing or less and ship overnight for the same amount if not a lot less than through the web. You just have to pick it up. Hope that info helps some people out. Thanks for the insight.

 

So...the bearing went on but I'm getting a worse scrape now with the new bearing in...I've tightened all the bolts to spec...not sure what it could be...would compressing the brake caliper accidentally while off the rotor cause the brake pads to drag on the rotor once put back on without depressing the brakes while driving at this point?
__________________

 

Update: I fixed it...it was the stupid brake shield..not sure but I may have laid something on it while I was working on stuff...and it needed to be bent back a bit since it was hitting the rotor as the wheel rotated...everything works perfectly now...thanks for all the help guys!

 

Sweet, another win

 

Something is clunking now very faintly when driving...I'm assuming that its got to be the compression rod since that nut that's holding it is not 110% tight still...but it wont come off either...any one have any ideas on how to deal with a loose ball joint stud that spins freely with 19mm nut?

 

UPDATE: The compression rod ball joint nut is NOT in any way supposed to be tightened with ratchet. Not even a 200ft/lb impact gun will do it. You actually need an impact gun(air) with a high enough torque to tighten that fugger. It was done and fixed the issue.

 

FSM torque for the compression rod ball joint nut is 62 ft*lbs.

May be really fun to take loose again.

 

Did both sides today be cause a noise, thanks for write up!
Still have a noise going on.... whats next?

It sounds like passenger side, most noticeable while coasting 35-50mph, can hear it down it around 10mph
It doesnt sound like a scrape, not going to rule it out though, it sounds like a bearing problem but now with new it still does (old ones still feel ok)

While accelerating i cant really hear anything, almost like when the weight is transferred it goes away but then with no acceleration it gets noticeable

Im almost tempted to blame the brake rotor, but i have no vibrations, plenty of pad, but it could be warped
or???? any suggestions?

*replaced both wheel bearings
*tried using other set of wheels with no change (rules out wheel or tires hopefully)
*visual inspections of bushings and struts with no leaks/tears visible

Thank you

 

thanks for the info

 

I have been noticing a vibration in my car while turning at highway speed. I suspected that the bearing had gone bad, particularly on the right front where the noise seemed to be coming from. It turned out to be something completely different, and I figured I would post it here in case anyone else had a simlar problem and was considering replacing the bearing.

The transverse link had slipped off the bushing and was rubbing against the frame of the car, transfering any wheel vibration directly into the frame, particulary while turning.


I was able to push the link back onto the bushing with a pry bar, and the issue seems to have cleared up. I suspect that this is only a temporary solution and the bushing will need to be replaced in the near future.

As a note, I do autocross the car and run it hard at track events, so this might not be typical wear and tear for a daily driver.

 

^^ Yes - replace..
do it sooner than later - as that lower control arm (transverse link) will continue to rub the inner sections of the K-member and the softer aluminum control arm will wear away and get damaged under braking loads....

you moving it back in place wont matter - it will move the very next time you hit the brakes....

See here:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ght=transverse

-J

 

if you track the car, i recommend SPL or at minimum whiteline at that location...

if no track or occasional track, the whiteline is all you need....

-J

 

Did this on my G and it was loose lugs on the opposite side!!!!!!! FFFFuuuuuuuu!!!!! -$204!!!!!!

 

Thanks for these instructions. I was able to replace both of my wheel hub thanks to the instructions and for cheap

 

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet !

 

i will do mines this weekend ... hopefully i will have no hard core problems

 

I'm interested in changing my hubs/bearings. Is there is a better brand or anything, or is it all the same?