zettahertz

I just ordered a set of KW Variant 2 and I've been trying to figure out how I'm supposed to adjust the rebound setting on the rears. I believe it's a **** on the top of the strut but how are you supposed to access this thing without taking the strut out each time?

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

my KW Clubsports have a ~2 or 3mm hex bolt on top of the shock to adjust rebound...

zettahertz

is there a way to access that bolt from the trunk or something?

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

pop off rear plastic coverings. and then drill 2 or 3" diameter hole directly over the rear strut.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

correct ^

zettahertz

omg, ic... I don't see much discussions about this. guess most people just set it first, install it and forget about it. Only thing I found is this after searching 'drill hole coilover':

And this is the only pic i found (pic 3)
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...installed.html

That seems like a tricky location to put a socket in or reach in to turn. (SOL if the socket falls off in there) How deep is it from the hole to the adjustment ****?

Chebosto, you also drilled the hole in that location?

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

yes. i drilled in that location, however with a MUCH larger hole, and i got an extension for the hex key as not to drop it inside the strut tower framing

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

Or you can have Louie at L-con Race cars do a rear setup similar to mine

zettahertz

nice setup and car!
but a cage is a bit over the top for my needs haha.

hmm, the adjustment **** isn't as deep in as I first thought, just ~an inch or even less.

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

LOL, thanks. I meant maybe he can do a back half for you or something similar.

Yeah, the adjustment ***** are not too deep. My strut bar was drilled as mentioned above by Cheston, prior to the cage. Good luck

zettahertz

Ok, got my KW V2s and now i see how to adjust it. Gonna post some pics in case anyone were looking for details on how they're like. Documentation on KW's site isn't quite clear since it shows 3 different types.

Here's a pic of the front coilover and rear strut + springs along w/ the spanner wrenches for each (different diameters)


Here's a closer pic of the adjustment **** of the front coilover, use allen key to loosen and turn **** to adjust height. Has a tag that says to tighten 1-2ft/lbs also.


Here's a pic of the rear spring. similar idea, but no hole for allen key


And here's a pic of the top of the rear strut. Adjustment is done with allen key and "clicks" on turns. The adjustment is done at the TOP, so drilling is required to access!


Now, gotta find the time to put them on.

Any out there with these or the V3s that would like to share their settings drop + rebound settings (and compression if u got V3s)?
Not even sure if many people have these on their Zs, but seems pretty popular on BMWs.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Where it say's to only torque the allen key or setting screw 1-2 lbs, do just that, use a very light touch. Using any more force will damage the threads and cause the seat to hang up and not want to turn because of the damage.

I would start with 1 turn rebound from full soft and test.

The product is make for Kw by Koni, I had no idea that Koni didn't give them the same rear adjustment system where you can adjust them from inside the wheel well.

If you'd like, I have to visit the shop that has finally finished my revalved Bilstein coilovers in San Jose on Monday. I'd really like get a shock dyno run on your setup, I am even willing to pay for the dyno's. Seeing the plots would help you know what changes with different adjustments. PM me if your interested.

zettahertz

Interesting, thanks for the info.

LaoSiFu

iTrader: (97)

Sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread zettahertz

I have mine sitting in the garage forever and haven't put them on yet. I am curious whats everyone V3 setting are? I would like to get an idea that I am playing the rebound and compression correctly. What are you guys running for the street and the track. I think I am finally going to put them on next month

~Robert

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

^ Robert, I still have my Truechoice Phase IV coilovers which are double adjustable. I did what I thought was right following the suggestion's that Koni and Truechoice publish regarding dialing in a DA shock. After I had them dyno'd, I realized that I was using far too little compression and far too much rebound. Seeing the plots really helped me get much better resluts. If you were willing to send me a single front and rear damper, I'll get them dyno'd for free and pay for return shipping. You'd have the plots within 24hrs of the runs being done. LMK.

LaoSiFu

iTrader: (97)

Thanks I will let you know about it.

~Robert

djtimodj

Hi mate, the KW's on mine i have set up like this:

front
rebound 4 clicks from full hard
low speed bump 5 quater turns from full hard.

rear
rebound 8 clicks from full hard
low speed bump 4 quarter turns from full hard.

hope that helps.

pchio

iTrader: (11)

How are the KW v3 feels on the street? How stiff are they? I was deciding between KWv3 and Bilstein PSS10, and I picked PSS10, due to the more complicated adjustments. I do go to track, but I think The more adjustment I have, the more work and confusion I will get. And I dont want to cut open the inside panel either.

My PSS10 feels like stock on softiest setting, ( I heard the KWv3 is very streetable too) however on the track, the PSS10 still feels like a little bit soft. I will post a review on the PSS10 later on. Keep us updated on ur new suspension. Gratz, good work!!

-Pat

zettahertz

Thanks to GSedan35 for the shock dyno. He has determined that the best set up for the V2s are 9 clicks (1.5 turns) from softest for the front, and 6 clicks (1 turn) from softest for the rear. And stated that running it at too stiff is pretty stressful on the suspension, perhaps he can put more detail in the explanation. And he'll be receiving the dyno data from the shop owner that ran the dyno.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

I still haven't received the raw files for the dyno's, still waiting.

To be more specific, the recommended settings were based on the spring rates that come with them and a desire to stay within the capacity of the damper. Higher settings may make certain elements "feel" better, but will not be worth the end cost of shorter shock oil life and anthing else that can be damaged by excessive cavitation over the long run.