shyun1250

iTrader: (4)

Just wondering about peoples thoughts on the Eibach Toe bolt kits vs the SPC ones?

pfregeolle

iTrader: (15)

I guess that's a no.... let's just ignore those traction arms so no one knows what they're for O_____O

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Well changing them to SPL removes a lot of stiction in the rear, most people adjust to stock length.

Adjustments, you can fine tune the toe change in travel. ( basically bump steer. But in the rear) if you have the proper equipment (dam good race shop with full chassis setup tools)

I would say very few people have he resources to fully use them.

pfregeolle

iTrader: (15)

Oh, I understand how they work. But my original post states that there's no touching of that subject in this thread on the first few pages. So I was just thinking it would be nice to put something in there so people who don't know how they work or what the do, or how they're adjusted, or if they'll even need them, can understand what they're for.

Erajk

Hi,

I will start tracking my 2006 350z this year.
Was owner of a Rx8 track car before, but bought the 350z for both DD and track days.

Now i have installed:
HEL brake lines
Motul RPF600 oil
Ferodo DS2500 brake pads (live in Sweden, so don´t have much heat issue)
Megan racing camber arms (front)
Berk mid pipe
265/35-18 Federal 595 RS-R TW 140 around

My next mod will be springs or roll bars. (or both?!)
My first question is: which springs is good for trackdays and DD? I´m thinking of Tein S Tech. To low will be bad for my DD.
Or is it better to keep the stock suspension with whiteline roll bars?

// Erik

Did my wheel alignment yesterday.
What do you think?

Front:
Camber -2,45
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber -2
A little toe-in

Erajk

No one drives Tein Springs on track days?

QuickSilver94

hey guys, im new (this is my first post) so please dont eat me if i post something incorrectly.
I just want to adjust camber for the lowering. in the front, do i NEED to adjust caster? from what i read and reread 10 times, you just NEED to adjust the camber.
and if so, what is a good uca that doesnt have caster? (easier to deal with because less **** to deal with on the alignment, right?)

if what i understand above is correct
spl seams to offer more than what i want and is more expensive, i just want the camber
---i will be drifting so i would like a model that holds up to abuse---
any suggestions?

also, since im getting true style coils, i should get rear toe link?

and last but not least, instead of these
http://www.importpartspro.com/spcretoadbok1.html
i can use these, which are better because they wont slip, correct?
http://www.importpartspro.com/splelz33350z.html

sorry if i sound stupid, just trying to get a full grasp on EVERYTHING.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

just look at post 7 - https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html

just get those and be done with it. read post 7 and the links in it very well. you will see its the best bang for the buck and easiest to adjust and all you need.

Caster adjustment isnt going to gain you anything if drifting is what your looking for, with the drop and the kinetix arms to correct your camber, your caster will fall high anyways - which is what you would want for drifting......so dont worry about it. (caster that is).

yes to lock out washers in the rear if you are going to go with true coilover style.


Other:
look at getting the SPL lower compression arm bushing and the Translink (#13 transverse link) - you will tear those - then your alignment will all go to sheit! the hells the point getting upper arms if you dont replace those bushings

- yes all of this cost money, its pointless doing it one part at a time, just save your cash, buy everything, do it once, do alignment once, otherwise, you technically need to do alignment after every swap of part up front. (more alignments, more money).

See here: https://my350z.com/forum/8293650-post23.html


-J

QuickSilver94

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
is the kinetix arm strong enough to handles the pressure of drifting? it doesnt seem as if it can hold up. looks really fragile

---this car is my DD, and i will only take it drifting like 4 or 5 times a year---

concerning the lower compression arm bushing and translink.
what i mean is the entire should i get the entire arm and translink or just the bushing?

also what bushing is it on this website? can you put all the bushings that i need (front and back) in the cart and send me the link?
http://www.importpartspro.com/rebu2.html

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

your face looks fragile.........that's silly. yes, the kinetix is fine.

damn it man, re-read this entire thread - get the translink and compression arm bushings - get them both SPL.

Translink -
SPL SPLCRBZ33 FKS Front Compression Rod Bushings 07-08 Nissan 350Z Z33 Regular price: $175.00 Your price: $158.00

Compression arm -
SPL SPLFLBIZ33 Pro Front Lower Arm Bushings - Inner 07-08 Nissan 350Z Z33 Item# SPLFLBIZ33-Z33 Regular price: $129.00 Your price: $116.00

I dont have time to outline all the bushings you need...re-read this thread, read others on bushings and go out to your car, review whats torn, damaged, etc.....and learn and order and replace the bushings you need.

-J

stascom

all those mad compression forces in drifting... >.<
DD is more taxing on your car than sliding around with no grip lol

hadiz

I bought 371065856885 on ebay
its d2 coilovers
Is it good for drifting ??

I bought 371065856885 on ebay
its d2 coilovers
Is it good for drifting ??

I bought 371065856885 those for my car on ebay . Put it in the search guys

Is it good for drifting

Its d2 coilovers

travlee

iTrader: (8)

real informative post..... why dont you post what you bought instead of making us look

pfregeolle

iTrader: (15)

It's like he's trying to tell us he bought coilovers or something.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

They will work, not really that good.

I would think the language barrier would be the issue

bjr

In theory if the parts are manufactured to specifications, replacing a compression arm should not require an alignment right?
Say that for arguments sake, you replaced a set of compression arms, had an alignment done, then one of the compression rods developed a loose ball joint and you replaced it with a new compression rod. If nothing else changed and the alignment is still good, changing that one particular part should not require another alignment right?
I know I'm going to get responses that you should just check it or just do it but what about relating it to what the arm's function in the overall system is? Only effect is caster????

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

After reading some complaints about the Ichiba upper arms and rear camber arms I did a google search "Ichiba failures"

With the amount of failures I saw in comparison to other tried and trusted brands I am returning my order for the Ichiba upper A-arms and rear camber arms.

Several camber arm posts show the rear camber arms broken in half OMG.

Ichiba and Z seems to equal

Granted I don't track my car but I don't drive it like "Driving Miss Daisy" either.

Now JasonZ-YA I've got a question about the Energy compression rod bushings.

You state that the Energy bushing creates too much friction and would blow the passenger side steering rack seals. Will that occur even if the car is not lowered.

Another question about aftermarket FUCA's if the bushings go bad on them are they OEM size and replaceable with Whiteline, Energy, or SPL bushings or does the complete are need to be replaced?

BTW this is a great thread you have really opened my eyes to getting the right components.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

It may be the old Kenitix arms you saw with your search, and yes the rear arms suck. The V2 or V3 front arms are very nice.

Compression arm bushing, I know Whiteline redesigned theirs, no idea on the difference. I installed V1 of them in my moms G35 prior to the production bushings coming out.

FUCU bushings, I would just get an arm from someone. They are cheap, so many of us have removed them, but I know Whiteline and ES both offer the bushings. Little bit of a pain swap, really not worth it.

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

Kinetix has got replacements:

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...3694.56.18.218

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...3694.56.18.218

kakirk30

Ok so I want to get some lowering springs for my car. I was thinking of either the Tanabe GF210 or the Tein S Tech. Now the wheels I am going to get ar 19x9.5 +24 Front and 19x10.5 +18. Which I know I will need a roll in the rear. Tire sizes will be 255/35 and 275/35. Which would i have less troubles with scraping my bumper and stuff. Also the bumper I will be getting is longs nose. Either the INGs Stream Z, C West E type, or Nismo V3.
Thanks, Kaleb