Wbruce03

I've searched on the forums for a write up on how to properly remove the front steering knuckles and haven't found anything. I am replacing both ball joints on them, and need to remove the steering knuckles so I can take it to a shop tomorrow, to have them press out the old ones, and press in the new ones. Along with new poly bushings for the control arms and compression rods. Any help would be appreciated.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

It's 4 nuts(2 lower ball joints, upper ball joint, tie Rod) a single 10 mm for the ABS sensor and 2bolts to the caliper , and a 10mm bolt to the brake line where connected to the spindle. Very simple.

bjr

I need to do the same thing. So since you are taking the whole knuckle out, you do not need to take any bolts out of the transverse arm (at the frame and shock)?
Also, Wbruce03 take note that when you pop the steering linkage off, it will not just pop out like the ball joint usually. You may want to invest a few bucks in a tool like this.
http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n...or-in-acti.jpg

It works like a pickle fork but is a spreader that you control with a wrench and a jack screw. I was going to check my outer tie rod a few weeks ago to see if the ball end had play and forgot about how tight those fit. Be careful of the boot!

But the number of things to take apart sounds right on! I've been under there quite a bit in the last two weeks looking around...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Tie rods on the z just take a slight knock with a hammer (to the spindle) and will pop right off. I have yet to use a pickle fork or any tool to free a ball joint on a Z.

bjr

Hmmm. Good to know. I was trying to get mine off quickly to do a simple check and remembered from another car it was (could be in some cases) a pain. That was after I tapped on the Z a little with a rubber mallet real quick on the threads of the joint and thought to myself "oh yeah, these don't come out easily" and put the nut and cotter pin back on.

Will give it a try. Hit the spindle right next to the tie rod joint with a dead blow hammer then? It's probably just got some side loading from the rack pulling or pushing on it holding the knuckle in place I would guess...

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Gotta be carefull, support the knuckle from moving down when you hit the tie rod. And make sure you don't mess up the threads...

All you need to do is remove every bolt you see after you take the wheel off. Get yourself a Factory Service Manual it will give you step by step instructions!

Wbruce03

Thanks for the replies. I actually figured it out on my own. It was exactly like you said tho. Got both sides off in like an hour and a half. I'm going tomorrow to a shop to have 2 ball joints pressed in along with complete poly bushings for the front. The shop is wanting to charge me 2 hours of labor, ($160), even though I am bringing them the steering knuckles and lower control arms to them. Seems a little high? Thoughts?

bjr

Sounds fair enough. It just depends on how you want to think of it. If you are handy and spent the $160 (or less - cheap presses work just fine) on your own press you would be money ahead in the future. If you are thinking about how simple the job is compared to the cost, most shops just charge a rate/hour no matter what job they are doing so I don't think $80/hr is too high. Also pressing things is not a job a lot of shops want to bother with so in a way you are lucky to find one but they are making sure they make some money off of you. I'd either buy a press and do it myself or go for it. Seems fair...

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Na pressing those in will only take 15 minutes hahaha but they gotta feed their kids and send them to college

mcubed45

Does the knuckle even fit in a press? It's such an awkward shape to fit the plates around. Seems like way less hassle to just leave the knuckle on the car and use a bj press kit...

But I guess if your already taking the arms in it might make sense?

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Yea pretty easy to press it on the car, I did a write up on it posted here and g35driver in the ball joint threads

bjr

Good question. I was wondering that too. I probably will take out the old ball joint out of my old knuckle in the next two weeks and could say for sure...

ny350zat

iTrader: (3)

where did u guys buy the ball joints? my ball joint in the passenger side is shot and leaking grease and i need to change it but i havent been able to find a oem replacement, everybody keeps saying u need to buy the whole assembly???
sorry for the thread jack btw

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

^16 pages of fun, only a few threads down from this one:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ll-joints.html

bjr

It looks like you could do it. The top part of the arm could be in the way depending on the press. You have to keep the arm a certain height from the press plates to have the arm clear the frame of the press. The joint is not in there as much of an angle as I remembered. It could be done with the right amount of spacer plates and receiving cup. I think it may just be easier to do it on the car. I did not press mine out but I had the rental tool on the car and it fit fine. You would need a big breaker bar or brief bursts of an impact gun to get it out I would think but either way should work.

bjr

New knuckle isn't bad to do. My only problem was getting the tie rod end to pop out. 228,000 miles rain, sun, or snow really takes a set. My pickle fork and special tie rod tool I already owned, the fork wasn't wide enough to fit. The FSM and my tie rod tool suggests leaving the nut on the end of the threads to deal with the part jumping out of the knuckle and damaging the threads.
After trying a few other more gentle persuasions, I ended up placing my 19mm impact socket on there then an impact extension and ended up having to hit it with a 5lb. sledge hammer a dozen times to pop it out! No damage. Didn't like doing it but had to move forward... It is a jolt but not really directly loading the ball I don't believe.
Other problem was getting the bearing out after the knuckle was out of the car. I've replaced both front bearings on the car and got them out OK. With it out of the car, I had to attach an old rotor and beat on it with a rubber mallet rotating around. It did pop out after only about 4-6 blows. Not bad. Took me about 15 minutes of screwing around to come up with the idea though.
Lower mileage cars should be easier. I marked the dust shield so I only had to do it once. Also the plastic cup on the back of the bearing - you may end up better off with a new one. Mine was kind of distorted after popping it out and didn't stay in easily at first. A new one would have been great to have...