Any update?

 

is this a dead threaD?

 

I think so. Only one person bought the brackets. I think that most people decided to buy the 350zbrakes or arizonabrakes.

 

After the pricing was figured out no one could dispute the pricing on the Arizona Brakes.

 

cheap bastiche that i am i've successfully* transplanted (non-BBK ) wilwood calipers onto my non-brembo Z,



this being the main reason - the crappy, thin, postage-stamp sized rear pads would wear to the backing plates in 1 day! [ at sebring, ymmv ]
this is the NEW rear pad ~2x as big and ~2x as thick

Front Caliper



Rear Caliper





*successful so far at 500 miles, true test is 7/19 at Sebring!

darn red xs - will find another pic post place... wait pls...

 

$$$ spent

wilwood 4 pot forged billet superlite calipers [summit racing]

4 x 166= $664

bp 10 pads [summit] (same pad size that their 6 pot caliper uses)

2 x 66= $132 [$796]

fr + rr brembo rotors, plain [zeckhausen racing]
85x2 73 x2 = $316 [$1112]

wilwood fr + rr ss brakelines [HRPworld.com]
67 x 2=$134 [$1246]

various grade 8 nuts, bolts, washers + plate of 1/4 steel for brackets [lowes]
~$100 for a total of ~$1350 for front / rear BBK WITH parking brake retained ( which is why i skipped the arizonazcars kits )

Yep - only 1 piece rotors [at this point] but still MUCH better than the stockies with the wafer thin rotors

spent 3+ days making the brackets (kept the stock calipers connected and replaced all the stock parts each nite)

 

Show us the brackets!!

 

well my paypal acct is.... j/k

'this info is just for off road use... etc etc... if youze killz yourself screwing with your own brakes it ain't my fault'



front bracket - the paper is 1/4" square so make sure it prints out that way
will do a better write up later but heading out soon, currently 1/4 inch plate but will redo in 3/8 plate (onlinemetals.com) mostly to stiffen the rear brackets a bit more - next set of fronts will be 18mm from centerline of top holes to bottom holes as the pads ride 1mm above the top of the rotors - will need to sand that 1mm of the top of the car mounting points to get the caliper that 1mm lower - i used brembo sized 12.9 rotors - can easily expand upwards if you spend the $ for larger rotors but i was going for lowest cost




rear brackets - i had a dynalite caliper setup for the nissan caliper site (like arizona z cars) but those pads are way to small, relocated caliper to new position to get the superlite caliper with it's .81" thick pad
made it in cardboard then 1/4" ply then 1/8" sheet then 1/4" plate - the top one (ist) was first and i adjusted the 'copy' by 1mm at the top left bolt hole which aligned the pad and rotor ~near perfectly - plan on redoing in 3/8 plate to eliminate v. minor side to side flex ( prior to bleeding, it doesn't move now) probaly not a big deal as i could shift the unbleed stock caliper a bit too

real test on 7/19 at Sebring - update after that (hopefully not with pics of Z into turn 1 wall!

 

You should have called. I'd have saved you some coin on the calipers.

And I'd be happy to quote your brackets as well. But they'd have proper threaded inserts in them making them easier to work with than the nut/bolt style.

Personally, I'm not up for stocking them to sell but if someone wants to make a run of perhaps 20pcs based roughly on this sketch I'll clean it up and make it work for you.

 

I'd be interested

 

good job

 

why not use the wil-250-9290 brackets? i know those would probably work for the front but still would need something for the rear. also be nice if actual part #'s for the caliper were posted

 

does it matter what kind of caliper you get? I thought that the bracket was the only thing that mattered.

 

those brackets would absolutly work!

if....

1)you had the 13.06 2 part wilwood front rotors [i'm using the 12.8 brembo rotor]

2)you were using the radial mount 6 pot wilwood calipers [i have 4 pot lug mount]


my front calipers WIL-120-7429 R(ight) & L(eft) which are 4 pot forged billet superlites with the 1.75" pistons
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-FSL/index.asp

if i was too redo i'd probably go with the WIL-120-8466 R/L with 1.62" pistons

[to reduce the total caliper piston area, since M/C piston remained the same - brake pedal travel is subtly lengthed, just enough to notice at first, brakes work excellently and it stops from 100 - 20 mph v. smoothly ( no dive), can easily hold 'threshold' vs abs braking point - i think it mostly was that my foot had 50k miles to get used to the prior pedal feel and is now recalibrating a bit]

for those that 'must' have 6 pots - these brackets *will?* fit 120-5960-FS 120-5961-FS [* haven't tested this but they are supposed to be interchangeable, i believe, maybe?] - but at $345 each just buy the arizona z kit! [feel free to mail me a pair of 6 pot calipers and i'll send ya back a pair of brackets (all four brackets for 1 caliper?? even j/k - don't want the liability, it is a D.I.Y. thread after all)


Rear calipers WIL-120-7477 R / L

am amazed i'm not getting more s**t for those scary *** jury rigged looking rear brackets - bolt to the front mount holes and loop over the axle to hold the caliper in back? But they work!! got my big rotor / big caliper / big thick pad and still retained the parking brake, v. minor 'adjustments' to stock parts but can revert to stock at any point (an early plan included the removal and redrilling of stock mounting tabs but was (rightfully) ditched)

wil-220-9196 & 9197 are the front & rear SS lines with proper connectors

2 sets of wil-150-8854 bp10 brake pads - good street pad, good to 1100 degrees!

installing the wil-150-5939k (polymatrix b) track pads for sebring (good to 1300 degrees)
they are 120 a set but *hopefully* will survive more than 1 track day
still that's an excellent price compared to pad prices for BBKs in general

was spending ~200 bucks in pads per track day ( axxis ultimate, hawk blue etc) which if these last longer will recoup the $$ invested along with reducing my brake worries on track days

[had 50k miles (1200+ at sebring) on the old stock rotors so that was $ i was about to spend anyway]

 

you don't want to upset the front to rear piston area relationship too much from stock - defintly don't go more towards rear biased which the z starts at

back in this thread much concern was voiced about changing bias from stock but mostly by armchair DIYers ( sorry no offense meant to prior posters - i gathered ALOT of info and wouldn't have done this without this thread!)

many many people are running front only BBKits with out crashing off the road [due to the brakes at least] then they later add the rear kits while also staying on the road, the brembo vs the stock are different piston areas but same MC so all in all v. hard to F. up but that being said...
making things idiot proof just breeds better idiots!

so you should be fine with 1.75 or 1.62 in front and 1.38 or 1.25 in back

i have the 1.75 / 1.38 and will be throughly testing them 7/19!

the brackets are very important - is very easy to be off by 1mm on a bolt hole which will screw up the alignment of top of pad to top of rotor - too low and you scrape the caliper on the rotor (this is bad ) be prepared to make mistakes.... making the first ones out of 1/4" plywood to check alignment to your car could save you ALOT of time cutting 1/4" steel plate with a grinder or jigsaw (i suggest terry prachett discworld booktapes on your ipod under your hearing protection ( you are wearing goggles / hearing protection / leather gloves right?? first time you burn the snot out of your hand you will be!)

i plan on redoing my brackets in the next weeks and will do the photo essay deal for a d.i.y. writeup, the rear brackets never made it into a pic as the hi temp paint was drying during this pic



the front brackets are just in frame lower left

also plan on powdercoating calipers and new brackets ( all BBKs are red right? ) so will follow with that later

 

nice. One question though, why doesnt the front caliper fully cover the rotor?

 

It's because the rotor is one piece. The calipers are not deep enough to cover such a large rotor. Wilwood, StopTech, and others overcome this by having a two piece rotor which not only allows them to cut weight but allows them to mate the hat with where the caliper ends.

The sections where the caliper/pads are not coming in contact with the rotor will rust unfortunately.

 

Sorry to dig this back up but why not go with the G37s brakes? Although I think you'll need 19's to clear:

http://www.g35parts.com/9083/osc/pro...3c0954d6a10cbf

F: 4 piston calipers w/ 14.0" Rotors
R: 2 piston calipers w/ 13.8" Rotors
(uses same drum style factory e-brake setup)

$1,399.99 Front and rear, the only other thing you would need is the front dust shields for $44 bucks (the rears are the same) and some brackets for the front (the rears bolt right up)

Riverside infiniti sells the brackets for something like 800 bucks w a 4 month wait but I found a guy that does it for like $250 shipped or you could probably make your own for less.

Seems like a great bang for your buck. total with dust shield and bracket would be like $1694 for front and rear.

Bracket pics:



Here it is with the caliper mounted


G37 BBK setup compared to the older G35/Z Brembo setup:

FRONT Comparison


REAR G37 Caliper vs Front Brembo!!

 

whoa

you guys have been busy - nice work!

The G37 brakes look super posh - but has a pad shape been ID's yet so you can get race friction?

 

I would love to see a picture of those G37 brakes on a Z! wow!