djamps

iTrader: (1)

I greased up everything real good again and no more squeak / binding. Upon installation I recommend greasing every moving part up in there real good including the plunger thing that goes into the master cylinder.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

General purpose grease?

binder

iTrader: (8)

lithium grease would probably be the best but all purpose would still work ok.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

I thought lithium was only really needed where it could suffer from high heat, or i guess to try and prevent being dislodged, so yeah, good point.

binder

iTrader: (8)

i like it because it looks prettier and is slightly less messy than regular automotive grease.

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

And regular automotive grease smells like someone's dirty ***.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

got mine installed this week. Vendor was great! Very prompt with communication and shipping.

There are a few things in the install that could be more clear. He really should put some circles and arrows. MS paint would work.

Install manual is long, scared the crap out of me. But then i read through it and figured out that its about 3 pages per step........so not bad. Getting all the parts swapped over was easy...reinstalling was a PITA. Never have i cussed so much. No fun being in the foot well trying to position the light just right, support the assembly and get the rod threaded in. FML.

Would be nice to use the oem fork/pin system. Also the cruise control switch seems to be off some. Tight squeeze to fit and the pad on the oem peddle barely hits the switch. I also removed the starter switch to make it easier to get the rod threaded.

I adjusted mine to give me the most throw possible. That means the fork is to the bottom. It was slightly tilted per the directions. Definitely helped with my Southbend clutch. I have a heavy duty pressure plate, feramic/organic clutch.

As far as the clutch peddle feel, definitely closer to what other manual cars feel like. I still liked the oem 350z........was a workout but worked. The new clutch was a breeze to drive on.

dineth00i30

After reading all 10 pages I'm convinced I need this. Driving in heavy traffic with a stiff in NYC is not fun. lol

As soon as I am done with my coilover install I will order a kit. Planning to install this with a SS clutch line.

mattleegee

0 in stock

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

mattleegee & dineth00i30 No Worries Guys. After having sold out over the weekend I put a rush order on more laser cut parts first thing yesterday morning. I'll have the raw steel parts by Friday to build up another Qty40 of the 350Z/G35 kits this weekend. They'll be available to ship out first thing Monday morning for all orders that come in this week.

I've also updated these to Rev2.1 as of this new batch of parts. They now feature a laser marked reference scale on the AFP Slider so there is no more guess work during setup to know exactly what AFP percentage your set to. Hopefully that will eliminate some of the confusion around setting and tuning the AFP Sliders on the 350Z/G35 kits.


I also had a hugely successful weekend testing the final pre-production prototype for the 370Z, G37 & 2ndGen G35 Sedans. Special thanks to Crisqo for offering to use his 2010 370Z for testing
As of Monday morning these all new Complete AFP Pedal Assemblies went into full production and I'll have at least 20 Unit ready to ship out within the next 1-2 weeks.

See the webiste for lots of pics and info on these new Compete Replacement Pedal Assemblies.
http://www.rjmperformance.com/370z--...ssemblies.html

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

I would have gladly paid more for some of the features that the 370z setup has.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I'm gonna use some arp lube LOL
But srsly. Because racecar. And I have extra which I hope I won't need for anything....


All because I finally ordered one!

How high can you get the engagement point when you have it on full soft settings? I have athlete knees (lol hoping to get a tennis scholarship soon, and you'd be amazed how punishing hardcourts are on your joints).

tomato_racing

I apologize if this has been covered and maybe I'm not understanding some of the terminology but I just read the entire thread and I still feel like I haven't found out if this mod will solve my issues.

I daily drive my stock Z and run into issues with chatter leaving stop lights and overreving my 1-2 shift. According to this thread the RJM piece solves this HOWEVER- my biggest complaint with my Z's clutch is the 1" closest to the floor and the 1" at the top of the throw during which it doesn't seem like my clutch does anything. In fact at the top of the clutch pedal throw often times my pedal actually stops ~1" short of where it normally does and I have to pop it the rest of the way up with my foot. It almost feels like there's some kind of return spring in the assembly that isn't strong enough.

My question is whether the RJM piece takes care of the dead space at the bottom and more importantly at the top of the pedal throw or do I have another problem?

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

No, that's not what this is for. Go bleed your clutch, you've got a problem there.

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

tomato_racing,

I see F2CMaDMaXX beat me to your question but I'll elaborate a little more.

I do agree you have either air in the clutch lines or a bad master cylinder. Having to stroke the pedal 1" to build pressure is a sure indicator that either or both of these issues exists on you car as well as the famous sticking pedal that many people have experienced here.
Some of my customers have reported that the new pedal kits have eliminated their occasional pedal sticking issues but I think you have more going on that needs to be addressed first.

Did this start after a clutch install or SS clutch line install or any other clutch system repair that would have opened up the lines? If it was after having opened up the system then 100% I would bet that there is a significant amount of air trapped in the clutch lines. The best way to eliminate all the air on our cars is to do a reverse bleed where fluid is pumped in under pressure from under the car at the bleeder screw. This forces air up and out in the natural direction it wants to go. Normal bleeding proceedures on these cars is very time consuming and extremely difficult to get all the air out even when professionally done multiple times.

If the system hasn't been opened did this just start one day or did it progressively get worse over time? A common culprit for master cylinder issues is old clutch fluid that degrades and gets very dark & nasty over time. Is the problem worse when the car is hot or being driven hard for a while? If so I would do a fluid flush on the system to pump all the old dirty fluid out and replace it with the higher temp DOT4 brake fluid (450-500f boiling point) or a racing version of the DOT3 that specifically states it has a higher then normal boiling point (500f or 550f) The normal DOT3 fluid the manual states has a much lower boiling point to begin with brand new and as it gets older and overheated a few times the boiling point really degrades drastically causing pedal issues.

Now with that out of the way I will say that the new clutch brackets and AFP adjustment would make a good difference in your chattering and shuddering during a launch. I'll also help make that 1-2 shift much smoother and consistant without over revving it. With a properly functioning pedal and hydraulic system you should feel the full clutch pressure about 1/2" from the top and be almost fully disengaged for a shift within 1" of down pedal travel. Yes the RJM Brackets (More specifically the AFP Adjustment) will take care of the dead or useless space in the pedal throw and allow for much better clutch control & modulation after fixing the other issues.

Hope that helps
Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

tomato_racing

Well then it sounds like I have a bigger problem than just bleeding it. I bought this car bone stock (exactly how it sits) from a dealer exactly six months ago and they provided all dealer maintenance records, none of which included anything to do with the clutch.

06Z w/ 70k

tomato_racing

Ryan,

That statement confuses me. Are you referring to dead space IN the friction zone or the 'slop' above where the clutch engages?

RJM Performance

iTrader: (2)

The way your pedal is behaving now is not normal at all for an 03-08 350z. If your pedal system was working correctly you would normally dissengage right at the top of the stroke and then then next 3-4 inches of travel down to the floor is completely wasted and useless stroke. Same thing coming up during a launch you'd lift nearly 3-4 inches up before the clutch engages abruptly right at the top of the stroke.
With the AFP adjustment it widens the engagement zone and safely lowers the Initial friction point so that the previously wasted travel becomes usable for modulating the clutch within the engagement window(zone)

ramirj2

I got mine (Rev2.1)last week and install it on Friday. Easy installation and the marked scale on the Slider make it easier to setup (right now at the suggested
75%)
It is night and day difference, well worth the money.
Custer service was great also!

patrickoneal

I've had my rev 2.1 clutch bracket sitting in it's box for close to 3 weeks, and finally got around to installing it this afternoon. It's been around 100 degrees here every weekend, but I figured out that if I moved my motorcycle outside, I could pull my Z far enough into my air conditioned garage to fully open the driver's door without hitting my boiler.

I took my time, and got it all installed in less than 2 hours. I've only had my Z for a couple of months, and I felt like I had gotten pretty good with the stock clutch pedal, but I can say after getting this installed it's worth every penny. The 1-2 shift for me wasn't that difficult to get right most of the time, but as you've said, you realize how much work you've been doing after installing this bracket. Taking off in first however, I was never sure when the clutch was all the way engaged, probably due to the short travel and spring in the stock assembly. So, I'd end up rolling off slowly and then nailing the gas. With your pedal, I feel like I get a great deal more feedback, so I can smoothly launch the car without popping or riding the clutch. I'd also like to mention that I had absolutely no trouble getting this installed. I'm pretty thin, so I wasn't even tempted to pull out the driver's seat. The clutch rod on mine was also super easy to thread in, I just reached up and threaded it in with my fingers, no pliers or cussing required.

I have a couple of questions however:

1. How do you read the percentage marks on the rev 2.1 bracket? Do they correlate to the center of the pin? Am I at around 75% in the attached image?
(The finish is much better in person. The flash and greasy finger prints make it look bad here.)

2. How do I know for certain that I'm not riding the TO bearing? I know the instructions say the first 1/4"-1/2" of travel should take less effort, but I'm having a hard time telling for sure. On my setup I ended up leaving the slider at ~75% and had to adjust the master cylinder rod in a great deal to bring the pedal level with the brake. I ended up turning it back out a few turns because the clutch let out way too early for me, but in the end the pedal height and friction point feel perfect to me without further adjustment of the slider. I just want to make sure I don't burn out my TO bearing.

And finally, one criticism, hopefully constructive in nature. Your instructions are fantastic and extremely detailed, not a single step was left out. No doubt you put a great deal of time into them. The one thing you might consider adding to the front page is a complete list of the required tools to complete the job. As it is now, you have to carefully go through the whole manual to see what you need. This didn't really bite me, as I buy way too many tools, but it would have been nice to lay out exactly what is required on my workbench instead of having to stop and dig into my toolbox every few steps. Others might get stuck when they figure out they don't have a 21mm socket or some such.

Thank you for making such a functional and well made product while keeping the price so reasonable.