How-to: Swap your own built engine - By Bruschijr - Updated: 6.17.2005
02-23-2005, 11:04 AM
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How-to: Swap your own built engine - By Bruschijr - Updated: 6.17.2005
As the title says.... yes im swaping my engine... and yes... im doing it myself... Have I done it before... nope... do i know what im doing... hope so... I guess I'll find out... I think I have enough knowledge so I feel pretty comfortable... I've actually already started.
Nis350ztt will help moderate this posting... I'd like to set it up where there is one long posting from start to finish with all questions and comments on the bottom... so its fairly straightforward and not cluttered.
My plan is to put up a posts for all the sections i can for the removal of parts, the swap, and the installation of everything until the startup... with as many pictures as I can.
As of this moment im on my second day... unfortunatley with no pictures... but I didnt really need them... I removed the hood, all the plastic undercovers, the front bumper, the IC (boo hoo), and about 90% of the piping for the turbo kit.
I will break out each section as detailed as I think needed be including the exact tools you will need... incase you just want to do one thing... you wont have to worry about what you need to get...
The point of me doing this is so 1) I learn more about the my car 2) to help out my fellow z enthusiasts in the event they try it as well 3) because its expensive to get done...
I had everything that I thought was critical done by SGP racing.. my engine should be done next week.. I just spoke with kyle today... i am hoping to have the engine out by the time my new one gets here or close to it.
Everything else I will have done locally by Altered Atmosphere. I have talked with Dave Shiroma a few times. He was very helpful and I feel comfortable dealing with them just as I was with Kyle from SGP.
I will begin posting tonight some how-to's detailing my process.. the first section will be with no pictures because i didnt have a camera... but you dont really need to see most of it... as far as what I already did.. I will have a camera tonight and put up what i think are some good shots when i get a chance.. I am open to all comments from good ones to criticism. And I am sure I will be asking some questions.. so the more help i could get from the community the better... Hopefully this will turn out to be a very informative guide to anyone who doesnt have a manual... or wants to get more into detail about it instead of reading a book.. you can ask questions as well and I will answer whatever i can.. If any mechanics would like to add thier thoughts or suggestions that would be greatly apprecitated as well... I'll be back on here later tonight... writing up my first sections and hopefully getting some pictures up... but im going to take my time in setting up how im going to write it.. to make it really easy to read and follow... so just give me some time
Nis350ztt will help moderate this posting... I'd like to set it up where there is one long posting from start to finish with all questions and comments on the bottom... so its fairly straightforward and not cluttered.
My plan is to put up a posts for all the sections i can for the removal of parts, the swap, and the installation of everything until the startup... with as many pictures as I can.
As of this moment im on my second day... unfortunatley with no pictures... but I didnt really need them... I removed the hood, all the plastic undercovers, the front bumper, the IC (boo hoo), and about 90% of the piping for the turbo kit.
I will break out each section as detailed as I think needed be including the exact tools you will need... incase you just want to do one thing... you wont have to worry about what you need to get...
The point of me doing this is so 1) I learn more about the my car 2) to help out my fellow z enthusiasts in the event they try it as well 3) because its expensive to get done...
I had everything that I thought was critical done by SGP racing.. my engine should be done next week.. I just spoke with kyle today... i am hoping to have the engine out by the time my new one gets here or close to it.
Everything else I will have done locally by Altered Atmosphere. I have talked with Dave Shiroma a few times. He was very helpful and I feel comfortable dealing with them just as I was with Kyle from SGP.
I will begin posting tonight some how-to's detailing my process.. the first section will be with no pictures because i didnt have a camera... but you dont really need to see most of it... as far as what I already did.. I will have a camera tonight and put up what i think are some good shots when i get a chance.. I am open to all comments from good ones to criticism. And I am sure I will be asking some questions.. so the more help i could get from the community the better... Hopefully this will turn out to be a very informative guide to anyone who doesnt have a manual... or wants to get more into detail about it instead of reading a book.. you can ask questions as well and I will answer whatever i can.. If any mechanics would like to add thier thoughts or suggestions that would be greatly apprecitated as well... I'll be back on here later tonight... writing up my first sections and hopefully getting some pictures up... but im going to take my time in setting up how im going to write it.. to make it really easy to read and follow... so just give me some time
02-23-2005, 09:12 PM
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ok so far I have taken off the hood, torque brace, under plasitc panels, front bumper, intercooler and piping up to intake... I just got the radiator out but there is an air conditioning radiator right in front of it... I cant figure out how to get that off... it looks just like the radiator except on the one side there are two metal tubes that I dont know where or how to disconnect they go all the way into the firewall. There are though, two thick wierd round parts that look like some kind of attachment, they twist and so do the pipes... but they dont come out... anyone have a service manual that can check that or know offhand...?
As of right now its 1 AM... gotta get up early for work so im gonna do a quick writeup from the begining starting with the hood and stop somewhere after that... I took about 30 or more pictures... so i have to take a look at which ones show anything useful and i'll have them up tommorrow.. i gotta install the software onto my cpu still..
Thats what is holding me up in the meantime.. If anyone can help out id appreciate it.
As of right now its 1 AM... gotta get up early for work so im gonna do a quick writeup from the begining starting with the hood and stop somewhere after that... I took about 30 or more pictures... so i have to take a look at which ones show anything useful and i'll have them up tommorrow.. i gotta install the software onto my cpu still..
Thats what is holding me up in the meantime.. If anyone can help out id appreciate it.
02-23-2005, 09:18 PM
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Hood Removal
For those of you who want to follow in my path or just to replace your hood.
Tools Needed:
12mm socket with ratchet
Preferrably another person
Pop the hood. While you are at it if you are going further than this you can disconnect the battery. Use the hood stand to keep the hood up. If you can get another person to help you balance out the hood for later that would help... but I was able to do it myself with no problems.
On the inside of the hood near the front window there are 4 bolts you are going to have to remove... Make sure to keep balance on the hood so you dont scratch anything. Be carefull when you loosen the bolts... Strangely for me the hinges holding the hood on seemed to act like they had springs, wanting to shoot up in the air. Funny enough though they dont seem to do that once the hood is off.
Thats all you need to do... just take your time... Anyone can do this.
Duration: Took me 10 minutes max.
No pictures needed....
Tools Needed:
12mm socket with ratchet
Preferrably another person
Pop the hood. While you are at it if you are going further than this you can disconnect the battery. Use the hood stand to keep the hood up. If you can get another person to help you balance out the hood for later that would help... but I was able to do it myself with no problems.
On the inside of the hood near the front window there are 4 bolts you are going to have to remove... Make sure to keep balance on the hood so you dont scratch anything. Be carefull when you loosen the bolts... Strangely for me the hinges holding the hood on seemed to act like they had springs, wanting to shoot up in the air. Funny enough though they dont seem to do that once the hood is off.
Thats all you need to do... just take your time... Anyone can do this.
Duration: Took me 10 minutes max.
No pictures needed....
02-23-2005, 09:35 PM
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Plastic Undercover Removal and Front Bumper
Tools needed
10mm socket ratchet
Very thin flat screwdriver
socket extension
Phillips Screw Driver
Everything here is comprised primarily of 10mm screws and plastic pins you need some kind of small thin flat object you need to pry open. There is not really much difficulty here either...
I started with the front bumper: Remove screws underneath bumper in the front. Peel back front bumper in the wheel well area to expose three screws needed to be removed on each side. An extension to your ratchet will make life much easier. If you need more room you can unscrew a screw further up along the wheelwell on the front bumper side on each side. Along the section where the bumper meets the hood there will be some black pegs that need to be removed.. The trick to these is you have to pry them with a very thin screwdriver.. then after they pop up you have to pull them out while pushing the top back down... After these come out the front bumper should be able to come off with no problems.
The remaining undercovers are simple to remove... just find the screws.. they are all 10mm and the plastic pins... which are a little easier to remove underneath. The wheelwell front covers have pins along the inside of the weelwell totaling 3 on each side after this the front plastic wheel well should come off.
Simple and straightforward this is simple do.. should take you 15 min if you have done it before.. maybe 25 min if its your first time trying to find some of the screws on the inside of the bumper.. just remember that extension helps!
10mm socket ratchet
Very thin flat screwdriver
socket extension
Phillips Screw Driver
Everything here is comprised primarily of 10mm screws and plastic pins you need some kind of small thin flat object you need to pry open. There is not really much difficulty here either...
I started with the front bumper: Remove screws underneath bumper in the front. Peel back front bumper in the wheel well area to expose three screws needed to be removed on each side. An extension to your ratchet will make life much easier. If you need more room you can unscrew a screw further up along the wheelwell on the front bumper side on each side. Along the section where the bumper meets the hood there will be some black pegs that need to be removed.. The trick to these is you have to pry them with a very thin screwdriver.. then after they pop up you have to pull them out while pushing the top back down... After these come out the front bumper should be able to come off with no problems.
The remaining undercovers are simple to remove... just find the screws.. they are all 10mm and the plastic pins... which are a little easier to remove underneath. The wheelwell front covers have pins along the inside of the weelwell totaling 3 on each side after this the front plastic wheel well should come off.
Simple and straightforward this is simple do.. should take you 15 min if you have done it before.. maybe 25 min if its your first time trying to find some of the screws on the inside of the bumper.. just remember that extension helps!
02-23-2005, 09:39 PM
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its 1:35 AM.. thats all i can do for tonght.. should have pictures up and a write up on how to remove the IC and piping, torque brace, and the radiator (thanks to Booger for helping with some quick info i needed)
Hopefully someone knows how to get that a/c radiator off without breaking it.. id really like to have the whole front part of the engine off. You can PM me with details
Hopefully someone knows how to get that a/c radiator off without breaking it..
id really like to have the whole front part of the engine off. You can PM me with details
02-23-2005, 10:26 PM
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First off it's called a condensor. Second, what the heck are you doing without a service manual? Ever hear of torque specs? Get the service manual from someone.
Anyway, here is the condensor info:
REMOVAL
1. Remove cover for condenser mounting bolt.
2. Remove engine cover, air cleaner assembly and air hose. Refer to EM-15, "AIR CLEANER AND AIR DUCT" .
3. Use a refrigerant collecting equipment (for HFC-134a) to discharge the refrigerant. (Yes, you should have done this before)
4. Remove engine under cover, using power tools.
5. Drain engine coolant. Refer to CO-8, "Changing Engine Coolant".
6. Remove radiator fan shroud after removing radiator upper hose.
7. Disconnect one-touch joints. (Not sure how this works)
a. Set a disconnector (condenser outlet: 92530-89908, condenser inlet: 92530-89912) on A/C piping.
b. Slide a disconnector backward until it clicks.
c. Slide A/C piping backward and disconnect it.
CAUTION:
Cap or wrap the joint of the pipe with suitable material such as vinyl tape to avoid the entry of air.
8. Remove mounting bolt for condenser.
9. Remove radiator upper mount, move radiator and condenser to
the engine side.
10. Disconnect refrigerant pressure sensor connector.
11. Lift condenser up slightly and tilt it toward front of vehicle. (This is because condenser lower bracket is on bottom of radiator
tank.)
12. Pull condenser forward at an angle. Remove condenser from radiator.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to damage the core surface of the condenser and the radiator.
INSTALLATION
Installation is basically the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION:
Replace O-rings for A/C piping with new ones, then apply compressor oil to it when installing it.
Connection point for female-side piping is thin. So, when inserting male-side piping, take care not to deform female-side piping. Slowly insert in axial direction.
Insert one-touch joint connection point securely until it clicks.
After piping has been connected, pull male-side piping by hand to check that piping does not come off.
When recharging refrigerant, check for leaks.
Bolt mounting the condenser
Tightening torque : 5.7 - 6.5 N·m (0.59 - 0.66 kg·m, 51 - 57 in-lb)
Anyway, here is the condensor info:
REMOVAL
1. Remove cover for condenser mounting bolt.
2. Remove engine cover, air cleaner assembly and air hose. Refer to EM-15, "AIR CLEANER AND AIR DUCT" .
3. Use a refrigerant collecting equipment (for HFC-134a) to discharge the refrigerant. (Yes, you should have done this before)
4. Remove engine under cover, using power tools.
5. Drain engine coolant. Refer to CO-8, "Changing Engine Coolant".
6. Remove radiator fan shroud after removing radiator upper hose.
7. Disconnect one-touch joints. (Not sure how this works)
a. Set a disconnector (condenser outlet: 92530-89908, condenser inlet: 92530-89912) on A/C piping.
b. Slide a disconnector backward until it clicks.
c. Slide A/C piping backward and disconnect it.
CAUTION:
Cap or wrap the joint of the pipe with suitable material such as vinyl tape to avoid the entry of air.
8. Remove mounting bolt for condenser.
9. Remove radiator upper mount, move radiator and condenser to
the engine side.
10. Disconnect refrigerant pressure sensor connector.
11. Lift condenser up slightly and tilt it toward front of vehicle. (This is because condenser lower bracket is on bottom of radiator
tank.)
12. Pull condenser forward at an angle. Remove condenser from radiator.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to damage the core surface of the condenser and the radiator.
INSTALLATION
Installation is basically the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION:
Replace O-rings for A/C piping with new ones, then apply compressor oil to it when installing it.
Connection point for female-side piping is thin. So, when inserting male-side piping, take care not to deform female-side piping. Slowly insert in axial direction.
Insert one-touch joint connection point securely until it clicks.
After piping has been connected, pull male-side piping by hand to check that piping does not come off.
When recharging refrigerant, check for leaks.
Bolt mounting the condenser
Tightening torque : 5.7 - 6.5 N·m (0.59 - 0.66 kg·m, 51 - 57 in-lb)
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02-24-2005, 04:39 AM
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You don't have to dissconnect the condensor, you can just move it out of the way... Also, technically you don't even have to remove the radiator support but it does make it easier to r & r the engine... Good Luck Sir! The entire removal should take roughly 6-8 hours. Also, are you removing the trans or leaving it in the car??
Jason
Jason
02-24-2005, 05:13 AM
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haha... LOL.. yeah when i wrote that i was tired as hell and couldnt remember the name "condensor" so i just wrote "radiator".... I do have the service manual but back in NJ, I printed out the engine mechanical section and the engine lubrication section when I took my engine apart a while ago to ship to SGP (other engine)..
Im going back to NJ on friday night and staying there over the weekend so unfortunatley i wont be able to keep working on my car this weekend until sunday night.. but I will be able to get the manual sections printed out that i will need.
Luckily I have help from you guys in the meantime... awesome.. thanks a lot. Thanks for the contribution you guys and (booger) who has been helping me through e-mail with the service manual.
So far this hasnt really been to much of a PITA, its really fun! Im taking my time and making sure I dont do anything or break anything.. it was just that condenser that was boggleing me, I have it tied up hanging by ropes now so it doesnt bend the piping..
I know you dont have to take that whole assembly off... but I decided I would do it to make the engine removal much easier, which i think is the most important part... I'll probably get a new radiator (better one)before i startup the car anyway so no worries
Thanks for the help guys... My plan tonight is to get that condensor off (which to this point has been the hardest part, or at least the hardest to figure out) and thats why i asked because I didnt have the service manual... im not about to go breaking crap I'm hoping to prove through this that you dont need to be extremely mechanically inclined to do an engine swap.. well find out when i turn on the car 
. After the condensor im going to take off the whole front assembly... got all the wires and horns and stuff off already so it shouldn't take long.. and if I get to it start the removal of the plenum and the very top of the engine... but ill have some pics up tonight of the radiator removal and some other things.
Im going back to NJ on friday night and staying there over the weekend so unfortunatley i wont be able to keep working on my car this weekend until sunday night.. but I will be able to get the manual sections printed out that i will need.
Luckily I have help from you guys in the meantime... awesome.. thanks a lot. Thanks for the contribution you guys and (booger) who has been helping me through e-mail with the service manual.
So far this hasnt really been to much of a PITA,
its really fun! Im taking my time and making sure I dont do anything or break anything.. it was just that condenser that was boggleing me, I have it tied up hanging by ropes now so it doesnt bend the piping.. I know you dont have to take that whole assembly off... but I decided I would do it to make the engine removal much easier, which i think is the most important part... I'll probably get a new radiator (better one)before i startup the car anyway so no worries
Thanks for the help guys... My plan tonight is to get that condensor off (which to this point has been the hardest part, or at least the hardest to figure out) and thats why i asked because I didnt have the service manual... im not about to go breaking crap
I'm hoping to prove through this that you dont need to be extremely mechanically inclined to do an engine swap.. well find out when i turn on the car . After the condensor im going to take off the whole front assembly... got all the wires and horns and stuff off already so it shouldn't take long.. and if I get to it start the removal of the plenum and the very top of the engine... but ill have some pics up tonight of the radiator removal and some other things.
02-24-2005, 05:32 AM
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as for the tranny removal question... I'd like to keep it attached if I can.. I have to see how difficult everything is and how I am going to do everything. Its pretty easy to say... Im trying to set this up so that anyone could repeat the process... if its too hard to do it a certain way ill do it the easier... but maybe longer way.
02-24-2005, 05:35 AM
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Jason where are you in Jersey? Im gonna be at my parents house with nothing to do all weekend... my finance is going out with my sister to look for wedding dresses (for my sister) she's engaged too.. If you guys have something going on let me know ill be happy to meet up somehow... gotta look into that machine.. if its something too hard to do or too expensive ill just keep it in there...
Like i said.. not doing anything I dont think i can do without the service manual
And nis350ztt can you modertate this later and put my posts about how to do things up at the top when i start putting up some more? so its all together? Thanks!
Like i said.. not doing anything I dont think i can do without the service manual
And nis350ztt can you modertate this later and put my posts about how to do things up at the top when i start putting up some more? so its all together? Thanks!
02-24-2005, 06:00 AM
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thanks booger.. I got it.. Apreciate it !
I got some emails reguarding the a/c condensor.. heres what i'm trying to figure out... if I take off the a/c condensor I know im going to have to refill it. Question is... it's not really that hard to refil it if i go take it to an a/c shop is it? I dont think its that expensive either... This would be one of those things I wouldnt want to try on my own. I wont need my A/C for a while in NY anyway.. its friggin cold up here...
If the benefits turn out to be minimal, then I'll just skip this part. But if it really helps to have the front off completely I'll go ahead and do it. I only have a few bolts to remove..
I got some emails reguarding the a/c condensor.. heres what i'm trying to figure out... if I take off the a/c condensor I know im going to have to refill it. Question is... it's not really that hard to refil it if i go take it to an a/c shop is it? I dont think its that expensive either... This would be one of those things I wouldnt want to try on my own. I wont need my A/C for a while in NY anyway.. its friggin cold up here...
If the benefits turn out to be minimal, then I'll just skip this part. But if it really helps to have the front off completely I'll go ahead and do it. I only have a few bolts to remove..
02-24-2005, 07:32 AM
#16
Hey Anthony, great write-up so far. As I mentioned in email, I highly recommend leaving the AC lines and condenscer in place. Its expensive to refilll the system again with refrigerant, and there is no real need to remove thosde lines or AC compressor. They can just hang out of the way.
When I did my engine removal, my guiding philosphy was: Don't removal anything that you dont have it.
I left the radiator in place too, but just removed the fan assembly.
When I did my engine removal, my guiding philosphy was: Don't removal anything that you dont have it.
I left the radiator in place too, but just removed the fan assembly.
02-24-2005, 07:37 AM
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OK i checked out the manual... looks like im going to need some kind of machine to discharge the the stuff... if i just release it into the air which is probably not legal, it irritates your eyes, mouth, and throat... hmm.. ok ill just leave that alone for now
I'm gonna still see if its worth it or not.. I know the more you get out the easier... im gonna call around and see if any shops have a mobile unit they can bring over.
I'm gonna still see if its worth it or not.. I know the more you get out the easier... im gonna call around and see if any shops have a mobile unit they can bring over.
02-24-2005, 07:40 AM
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I have one but its in Jersey
Like everyone has said, it is best to leave it in. It is not necceasary to remove it for the removal of the engine.. It swings out of the way enough to get to everything
Like everyone has said, it is best to leave it in. It is not necceasary to remove it for the removal of the engine.. It swings out of the way enough to get to everything
02-24-2005, 07:45 AM
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Alright thanks for the help..
I'll leave it in for now and just secure it a little better... ill hook up the horns and wiring in the front of the engine i took off preparing for the front removal.
Its on to the plenum tonight...
I'll leave it in for now and just secure it a little better... ill hook up the horns and wiring in the front of the engine i took off preparing for the front removal.
Its on to the plenum tonight...
02-24-2005, 09:45 AM
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Definitely leave the AC system intact. Once you open it up, the system is subject to external contamination and will ruin other components. I had to learn this the hard way with a honda civic.....AC parts aren't cheap!! Do whatever you can to just move the condensor out of the way.
-Steve
-Steve