You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Something many of us don't usually think of, myself included... Power Steering cooling. So I was bored today being that it was a holiday. I decided to put together a better power steering cooler than the one I had.
I just happened to have a Danger Den Black Ice Extreme II radiator laying around. It was originally intended for PC water cooling (I'm a huge techno geek that watercools, over clocks, and over volts my PCs...) http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=85&page=1
It's been laying around forever and I wanted to use it for something.
This radiator is rated for 250+ F and 85psi with very little pressure drop from entrance to exit. The power steering cooling loop is low pressure, so I said, "Why not?". The plenum and frame on this rad are made of brass. The core is made of copper. Copper and brass are stronger and dissipate heat much better than aluminum (but with a small weight penalty). It was $45.00 went I bought it last year.
So I went to Home Depot and bought some aluminum "L" bar ($9.00), stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers ($6.00), two 3/8" brass tube fittings ($5.00), some petroleum resistant thread wrap ($3.00), and a couple 1/2"OD hose clamps ($2.00).
Then I went to Advanced Auto to get 4 feet of 3/8" high pressure fuel line ($10.00) and 2 quarts of Dextron ATF ($5.00). Yes, the power steering pump on our Z's calls for ATF fluid! :-)
This is a direct replacement for the stock cooler. I put it all together and installed it (it mounts to the underside of the aluminum front bumper brace). After test driving with this unit - I was very surprised at just how much heat the Z power steering pump really generates. With just normal 'around town' driving, the new power steering cooler is very warm to the touch, almost hot... And the radiator I used is no slouch when it comes to heat dissipation. It's rated for 1580KCal per hour (6270 BTU per hour). I was actually worried this radiator might be overkill for cooling a power steering loop... Not.
I've heard stories of people literally boiling their power steering fluid at the track with stock (or not much better than stock - Ie. Nismo) power steering coolers.... I can believe it. This is a mod probably best not overlooked if you drive your Z hard.
I just happened to have a Danger Den Black Ice Extreme II radiator laying around. It was originally intended for PC water cooling (I'm a huge techno geek that watercools, over clocks, and over volts my PCs...) http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=85&page=1
It's been laying around forever and I wanted to use it for something.
Good job on the DIY cooler. It is definitely a neccesity if you track your Z/G,, which I know from personal experience.
On a side note, if you are a tech geek for PC's, and into cars as well, which it appears to be so, you should look into installing a CarPC.
Dave
__________________ 2005 Infiniti G35 6MT Coupe Black/Black JWT TT and CarPC CarDomain page Go Fast By Any Means, my triathlon/motor sports blog
__________________ 2004 Honda CBR 600RR current 2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom current 2009 Subaru WRX - current 2011 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 current 1975 Datsun Fairlady Z RHD Project 2004.5 Nissan 350Z (gone, but not forgotten) 2008.5 Nissan Titan(Goodbye my monster truck)
Do you have to drill the aluminum brace the cooler is mounted to? Seems like a dumb question, but I am not sure if it was pre-drilled the way the OEM cooler was mounted. Just never have taken a look before. And the screws mounting the L-bracket to the cooler tap into pre-drilled holes correct?
Nice DIY though. I don't drive my Z hard, but may do it for the "bling" factor.
Yeah, I just marked the mounting location on the bumper brace with a Sharpie. Then drilled pilot holes a little smaller than the stainless self-tapping screws (with lock washers). After everything was lined up & drilled. I removed the sharpie marks with Bug & Tar Remover.
I need to take the front of the body off, and scoot the cooler over to the far side a little more. I would like to minimize obstruction to the radiator.
I installed a Stillen power steering cooler today. It actually uses an Earl's mini oil cooler. I just wanted to see if it worked any better. The jury is still out.... At least is doesn't block the radiator as much as the other unit. And I like the mounting bracket...
Gothchick, another excellent post. I wanted to give you guys some insight into these coolers.
Here was an application that i had done about 2 years ago:
As you can see, we used setrab cores for this (and the other racecar) But this core was purchased prior to our changing to KRC power steering pumps (dirt/oval track pumps)
We had to change the pumps to compensate for the 2:1 steering quickeners (1.5 turns lock-to-lock) (twice the speed = twice the effort on pump). Now, after talking with KRC about the cooler requirements, they suggested that if possible, try to go with a tube style cooler (similar to a cheap transmission cooler core- but not a cheap one) and stay away from the bar/fin style coolers as they restrict flow to an already hard working pump. Keeping that in mind, It makes sense that Nissan would use a (albeit small) tube style cooler for most all of their p/s cooler applications rather than a bar/fin.
So, in closing, heres my opinion:
For your factory setup (stock pump, standard wheels/tires, normal driving use) I dont see any problem with the Stillen core.
However... I do not think that core from Stillen is nearly large enough to keep a porky Z33 cool for serious track use. Doubly so if the car is modified for a different steering ratio.
Cheers guys and gals!
Last edited by NOSTALGIC_hero; 05-23-2008 at 08:52 AM.
I just googled plate and fin vs. tube and fin oil coolers. There seems to be a pretty even split of opinions & preferences for either design on performance forums. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages.
From what I've gathered -
Plate and Fin:
1) More effecient at removing heat because it has more surface area than a comparable tube and fin design
2) less pressure drop due to it's parallel fluid paths.
3) Blocks more airflow than tube and fin.
4) Entrance airflow is directional so mounting options are more limited
5) More expensive to manufacture
Tube and fin:
1) Not as effecient at removing heat because it doesn't have as much surface area as a comparable plate and fin cooler.
2) Introduces more pressure drop to the loop because of it's serial fluid paths
3) Allows more air to pass through it's fins than plate and fin so it's not as obstructive
4) Entrance airflow is not directional (so it can be mounted more ways than plate and fin)
5) Less expensive to manufacture
Alot of the guys here in Vegas (including me) are running a Summit Racing cooler. It's identical to stock, only twice the length. It uses the stock hoses and attaches in the factory location. Only takes a few minutes to install and only costs $28.
Alot of the guys here in Vegas (including me) are running a Summit Racing cooler. It's identical to stock, only twice the length. It uses the stock hoses and attaches in the factory location. Only takes a few minutes to install and only costs $28.
Lol~ Funny you should mention that~ I actually ran that *exact* Derale power steering cooler professionally piggy-backed to the stock unit for awhile. Worked well... But so far, I like the Stillen/ Earl's plate and fin unit better...
I've got the below piggy-backed unit for sale if anyone wants it~ :-)
excellent DIY, been searching "steering coolers" and this was one of the most informative...
any tips on disconnecting the old one? can I just remove the cap to relieve pressure and take off the rubber tubes, install the new one, and add fluid?
DIY Power Steering Cooler
