How to do Twins right the first time!!!
03-24-2005, 10:33 PM
#41
Good info on engine build up, going deep, but my question to you, how much boost were you running when you blew your engine?
It does cost alot more money to build up your engine while your doing FI. I would do it too if i had the money, but right now iam gonna be barely able to afford a TT kit. So the thing is, if i keep my boost at stock or little lower then stock boost, i should be fine with a good tune.
It does cost alot more money to build up your engine while your doing FI. I would do it too if i had the money, but right now iam gonna be barely able to afford a TT kit. So the thing is, if i keep my boost at stock or little lower then stock boost, i should be fine with a good tune.
03-25-2005, 06:26 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by cloudy
Good info on engine build up, going deep, but my question to you, how much boost were you running when you blew your engine?
It does cost alot more money to build up your engine while your doing FI. I would do it too if i had the money, but right now iam gonna be barely able to afford a TT kit. So the thing is, if i keep my boost at stock or little lower then stock boost, i should be fine with a good tune.
It does cost alot more money to build up your engine while your doing FI. I would do it too if i had the money, but right now iam gonna be barely able to afford a TT kit. So the thing is, if i keep my boost at stock or little lower then stock boost, i should be fine with a good tune.
03-25-2005, 06:28 AM
#43
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to add...we are at 5500 ft altitude, so 8.5 lbs is equiv to 6.5 lbs- not much above stock levels of boost for these kits (in terms if cylinder pressure and stress on the motor)
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03-25-2005, 05:12 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by cloudy
Well i plan to go with APS TT Kit, and they have not had, *knocks on wood*, any blown engines at stock boost yet to my knowledge. 
03-25-2005, 07:32 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by cloudy
Well if that time does come, hopefully by then ill have enough for forged internals.
03-26-2005, 06:02 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by cloudy
why would i need that?
03-29-2005, 04:53 PM
#51
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What do you guys think about the SGP built motors? I think the "Ultimate short block: $3900 + $1000 core" one looks like a pretty good deal. All I would want extra is ARP head studs. Also what is the ceramic coating for and does it help?
04-01-2005, 11:15 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by thawk408
What do you guys think about the SGP built motors? I think the "Ultimate short block: $3900 + $1000 core" one looks like a pretty good deal. All I would want extra is ARP head studs. Also what is the ceramic coating for and does it help?
04-02-2005, 12:40 AM
#53
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I was thinking the same thing, but why not just order the long block? Why would someone just order the short block?
I was considering this long block.
Upgraded Long Block #2: $6000 + $2000 Core
Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
New Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
*Pauter Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
CP Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)
*ARP Main Studs
*ARP Head Studs
Heads oil passages cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
5 angle valve job
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set
New Valve stem seals
New Nissan Head gaskets
New Nissan Oil Pump
New Nissan Cam seals
I was considering this long block.
Upgraded Long Block #2: $6000 + $2000 Core
Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
New Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
*Pauter Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
CP Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)
*ARP Main Studs
*ARP Head Studs
Heads oil passages cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
5 angle valve job
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set
New Valve stem seals
New Nissan Head gaskets
New Nissan Oil Pump
New Nissan Cam seals
Originally Posted by going deep
Thats a smart way to go, and they can ship it to you when ready. Just make sure you find a good shop for the install of the motor and TTs.
04-02-2005, 03:23 PM
#54
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Great post!
Three Questions/Suggestions:
1) How about getting a list together of machine shops that do good work in our neighbourhoods, How much do they charge? What's the average wait time? and such things. This way all of us planing to build up our engines know where to go and don't have to get screwed over. I heard horror stories about this.
2) I was told a brand new block is not good for sleeving/boring because it's not yet completely settled...true or false?
3) What does this mean: Basic short block: $2700 + $1000 core
What's the $1000?
Thanks
Three Questions/Suggestions:
1) How about getting a list together of machine shops that do good work in our neighbourhoods, How much do they charge? What's the average wait time? and such things. This way all of us planing to build up our engines know where to go and don't have to get screwed over. I heard horror stories about this.
2) I was told a brand new block is not good for sleeving/boring because it's not yet completely settled...true or false?
3) What does this mean: Basic short block: $2700 + $1000 core
What's the $1000?
Thanks
04-02-2005, 03:40 PM
#55
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I can answer 3 for you. You will be charge $2700 + $1000 for the core. Once you return you core to them they will refund you the $1000.
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
Great post!
3) What does this mean: Basic short block: $2700 + $1000 core
What's the $1000?
Thanks
3) What does this mean: Basic short block: $2700 + $1000 core
What's the $1000?
Thanks
04-02-2005, 03:50 PM
#57
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They will charge you $3700. The core is sitting in your engine bay right now. Once you take yours out, you ship that core to them and they refund you the $1000. The bottom line price after core exchange will be $2700.
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
so the total cost for me is $2700?
What's the core?
What's the core?
04-03-2005, 07:51 AM
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For tomcat -
A core charge is a general term. A "core" is basically a part you're going to replace, but can be rebuilt (most common example is an alternator that has gone bad). They send you the short block that they have worked their magic on, and in order to make sure they get your old block back (so they can rebuild it and sell it to someone else), there is a "core charge" of $1000. You get your $1000 back (or dont get charged for it on your credit card, depends on the company) when they get the block that you pulled from your car back to them.
A core charge is a general term. A "core" is basically a part you're going to replace, but can be rebuilt (most common example is an alternator that has gone bad). They send you the short block that they have worked their magic on, and in order to make sure they get your old block back (so they can rebuild it and sell it to someone else), there is a "core charge" of $1000. You get your $1000 back (or dont get charged for it on your credit card, depends on the company) when they get the block that you pulled from your car back to them.
Last edited by polar; 04-03-2005 at 07:56 AM.
