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I'm sry but what do you mean remote wire the mounting? And if I relocate the break booster check value then u mean run the Hobbs into the intake? I'm confused. Lol.
I mean mounting the Hobbs switch remotely, as in, not directly threaded into the intake manifold, but to a remote location. Such as, inside the battery compartment.
I mean mounting the Hobbs switch remotely, as in, not directly threaded into the intake manifold, but to a remote location. Such as, inside the battery compartment.
From the Honeywell (manufacturer) website: These switches sense a change in the pressure or vacuum and open or close an electrical circuit when the designated set point is reached.
To elaborate, a Hobbs switch is a device that will "close" (connect) the 2 wires attached to it, when it senses the preset pressure has been provided to the threaded port on its tip. There are also versions that operate in the opposite fashion.
From the Honeywell (manufacturer) website: These switches sense a change in the pressure or vacuum and open or close an electrical circuit when the designated set point is reached.
To elaborate, a Hobbs switch is a device that will "close" (connect) the 2 wires attached to it, when it senses the preset pressure has been provided to the threaded port on its tip. There are also versions that operate in the opposite fashion.
Thxs brotha!!!! Sry to be so ignorant!!! All a learning process!!!!! Thxs again man
Hey anyone tell me if I need to do away with the cover that goes over pump set up after I install the 90 degree AN fittings? Does seem like it's going to go on all the way on. Car is a G35
I discussed this with Charles some time ago and he said 255/450 may be too much for idle...I did manage to get away with 255/255 with no known issues...I switched to standalone so now I'm properly staging it, but in absence of a standalone a Hobbs switch will do....
Originally Posted by taywan
I'm about to be running this with a 255/450 and curious if I should run both continuously.
Subd
Definitely would want to stage the second pump when its a 450lph.
As for the metal access panel... its a close fit. Most hose ends will not fit without modification to the panel.
We would advise to perform modification to the access panel to complete the firewall between the fuel tank and the interior. Some well placed dents could clear some hose ends, otherwise a minor cut/weld job to raise the center of it could be required.
For years I have considered building some replacement covers that are raised. I wonder if there is enough interest for that?
Definitely would want to stage the second pump when its a 450lph.
As for the metal access panel... its a close fit. Most hose ends will not fit without modification to the panel.
We would advise to perform modification to the access panel to complete the firewall between the fuel tank and the interior. Some well placed dents could clear some hose ends, otherwise a minor cut/weld job to raise the center of it could be required.
For years I have considered building some replacement covers that are raised. I wonder if there is enough interest for that?
As for staging the pumps. What one exactly is the primary again? Also where can I reference to know if they are wired properly again? Just wish there was a wiring diagram that came with the pump set up. Any suggestions as to what I can do to make sure I have this correctly wired? This is one thing I been stressing over big time!!
The primary pump is the 255 which is the pump closer to the barb fitting on the bottom for the in tank hose.
The wiring is overall pretty simple. You only need to provide a power and a ground for each of the 2 fuel pumps, and of course integrate the 2 level sensor wires. The wire for the factory fuel temperature switch (small black sensor on bottom of stock fuel pump) is eliminated.
We couldnt provide a wiring diagram for your twin pump since we do not ship them with the terminals installed into the connector. You just have to look at which terminals in the connector are used for what.
We have wiring guidelines for our FD twin pump that apply to the 350z twin pump if you ignore the paragraph about the grounding screws since the 350z twin pump does not have any. There is a diagram there that shows the relationship to the interior terminal positions and the exterior terminal positions.
The purple wire on that diagram would be the trigger for the secondary pump... if you wired that to battery power with a hobbs switch inline, it would trigger it in boost. Or if your EMS has a 12v output to trigger it, you would connect it there. If your ECU has a ground secondary pump trigger, you would connect the purple to battery power and then the brown wire would become the ground trigger.
If you wanted the secondary pump on full time (not ideal), you would connect the purple wire to the positive wire of the primary fuel pump.
The purple wire on that diagram would be the trigger for the secondary pump... if you wired that to battery power with a hobbs switch inline, it would trigger it in boost. Or if your EMS has a 12v output to trigger it, you would connect it there. If your ECU has a ground secondary pump trigger, you would connect the purple to battery power and then the brown wire would become the ground trigger.
If you wanted the secondary pump on full time (not ideal), you would connect the purple wire to the positive wire of the primary fuel pump.
Thxs bud. I'm gonna go over this and make sure this weekend when I'm down at the car. Thxs again!!
I discussed this with Charles some time ago and he said 255/450 may be too much for idle...I did manage to get away with 255/255 with no known issues...I switched to standalone so now I'm properly staging it, but in absence of a standalone a Hobbs switch will do....
Taywan now has a haltech pnp, so I guess We would take one of the wires to the aux on the side to one of the ports that the tuner designates for the other pump.
That sounds right...in my infinity setup I'm using an unused lowside port that triggers at a certain boost....
Originally Posted by meanz
Taywan now has a haltech pnp, so I guess We would take one of the wires to the aux on the side to one of the ports that the tuner designates for the other pump.
Finally got some time and finished fishing the lines up and putting fittings on. I'm happy with it so far. Now just gotta figure out how I'm going to secure the lines underneath so the are solid and don't vibrate ect. I just ordered some -6 and -8 cushion clamps from jegs. We'll see what happens. Oh and it was a complete nightmare getting lines up. Smh. I'm happy so far tho!!!
Cux and I will maybe mess W mine tomorrw. I finally got my fuel lab inline filter, fittings, 8an line, etc.
I had to fish line with bottom fitting in then terminate 90 an in the car. Sry idk how guys say they did it with fittings on but wasn't happening with mine.
Gotta still do a few tweaks but got a lot done today. Think I'm gonna get some stainless steel ties. Idk I think the black looks getto but that pretty much all I could do with the return line. You don't get much room the play with in there.
04-15-2016, 11:43 AM
