CJM Twin pump Install pix!!!
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Charles..... The Skyline & TRUBLUZ's Twin Pumps are installed
We are dynoing the Skyline today & TRUBLU's tomorrow.... I will let you know when we are done.... The siphon works perfect on the skyline, we have already ran a tank through it... Even all the way.... On the 1600cc injectors this setup makes all the difference in the world!!! The assemblys are sweet!!
-Mark
-Mark
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Originally Posted by SGP_Racing
We are dynoing the Skyline today & TRUBLU's tomorrow.... I will let you know when we are done.... The siphon works perfect on the skyline, we have already ran a tank through it... Even all the way.... On the 1600cc injectors this setup makes all the difference in the world!!! The assemblys are sweet!!
-Mark
-Mark
Gook luck Mark!
Kevin
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Dyno test
Dyno yesterday, I think this is the first time that I've been to a dyno and not had to tear the fuel system apart to make over 500rwh! The CJM twin worked flawelssly! NICE WORK CHARLES!
Set base fuel pressure to 30 no vac,- 40psi with vacuum attached at idle. Gained 1 to 1 under boost, rock solid!! Boost 22 psi, fuel pressure rose to 62-63 psi. I've never seen the gauge on the regulator so consistent and solid no needle bounce at all. fed the demands to 740rwh with ease.
To the track for more abuse, see if there is any bearing under g-force and low fuel levels in the tank.
Kevin
Set base fuel pressure to 30 no vac,- 40psi with vacuum attached at idle. Gained 1 to 1 under boost, rock solid!! Boost 22 psi, fuel pressure rose to 62-63 psi. I've never seen the gauge on the regulator so consistent and solid no needle bounce at all. fed the demands to 740rwh with ease.
To the track for more abuse, see if there is any bearing under g-force and low fuel levels in the tank.
Kevin
Last edited by kevinapex; 01-11-2008 at 05:43 PM.
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Glad it worked flawlessly. We put a lot of work into making sure that the fuel pressure stayed solid. In fact that was a reason for a design change once or twice.
Make sure that when you do your track testing, that you start of with plenty of gas. I don't recommend going under a 1/4 tank though. It will still work but your chances for starving the pumps on a high G turn are much greater. (of course)
Nice to have some feed back, especially positive! Looks like we need to go into full production. I wonder if the gas tank on the GTR will be the same?
~Brandon
Make sure that when you do your track testing, that you start of with plenty of gas. I don't recommend going under a 1/4 tank though. It will still work but your chances for starving the pumps on a high G turn are much greater. (of course)
Nice to have some feed back, especially positive! Looks like we need to go into full production. I wonder if the gas tank on the GTR will be the same?
~Brandon
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Originally Posted by kevinapex
Dyno yesterday, I think this is the first time that I've been to a dyno and not had to tear the fuel system apart to make over 500rwh! The CPM twin worked flawelssly! NICE WORK CHARLES!
Set base fuel pressure to 30 no vac,- 40psi with vacuum attached at idle. Gained 1 to 1 under boost, rock solid!! Boost 22 psi, fuel pressure rose to 62-63 psi. I've never seen the gauge on the regulator so consistent and solid no needle bounce at all. fed the demands to 740rwh with ease.
To the track for more abuse, see if there is any bearing under g-force and low fuel levels in the tank.
Kevin
Set base fuel pressure to 30 no vac,- 40psi with vacuum attached at idle. Gained 1 to 1 under boost, rock solid!! Boost 22 psi, fuel pressure rose to 62-63 psi. I've never seen the gauge on the regulator so consistent and solid no needle bounce at all. fed the demands to 740rwh with ease.
To the track for more abuse, see if there is any bearing under g-force and low fuel levels in the tank.
Kevin
Very Nice Kevin!
Great to hear those things are working flawelessy.
I will be retunnig my self next week, with the twins and some meth and Race gas.
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Originally Posted by oorx7
Glad it worked flawlessly. We put a lot of work into making sure that the fuel pressure stayed solid. In fact that was a reason for a design change once or twice.
Make sure that when you do your track testing, that you start of with plenty of gas. I don't recommend going under a 1/4 tank though. It will still work but your chances for starving the pumps on a high G turn are much greater. (of course)
Nice to have some feed back, especially positive! Looks like we need to go into full production. I wonder if the gas tank on the GTR will be the same?
~Brandon
Make sure that when you do your track testing, that you start of with plenty of gas. I don't recommend going under a 1/4 tank though. It will still work but your chances for starving the pumps on a high G turn are much greater. (of course)
Nice to have some feed back, especially positive! Looks like we need to go into full production. I wonder if the gas tank on the GTR will be the same?
~Brandon
Brandon, thanks for the advice, for twisty track!!
Sorry is my term,"twin pump" no good!!
Kevin
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Originally Posted by kevinapex
ah, never noticed,, sorry!
Have you been able to go through a tank of gas yet?
Does your gas gauge seem to be acting normal?
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Originally Posted by oorx7
Just bustin your *****, glad you changed it though.
Have you been able to go through a tank of gas yet?
Does your gas gauge seem to be acting normal?
Have you been able to go through a tank of gas yet?
Does your gas gauge seem to be acting normal?
They deserve busted for that f-up!
I have not gone through a full tank yet, I went from below 1/2 to full, gauge showed full, dyno ran down to 3/4 sounds right. Drove home droped to 1/2. Looks good this far.
I was a touch worried about the siphon ling interfering with the sending unit float, is that your thoughts aswell?
Kevin
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Originally Posted by kevinapex
I was a touch worried about the siphon ling interfering with the sending unit float, is that your thoughts aswell?
Kevin
Kevin
I had to make it close, to allow the assembly to be passed through the tank opening. Seems to be clearing fine. Keep us up dated on how things are running.
~Brandon
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Brandon, I pulled my CEL codes with Cypher, got a P 0183 which is fuel tank temprature sensor. I know this sensor is disconected, is there any way to fool the ecu into thinking the sensor in still in the system to avoid the CEL?
There must be a way to ground it, or put a resistor in the loop?
Thanks Brandon,
Kevin
There must be a way to ground it, or put a resistor in the loop?
Thanks Brandon,
Kevin
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Kevin, thats my bad there. I was convinced that the fuel temp sensor was actually a temp switch. I must have been doing something wrong when playing with it.
If that is the case, I would first try to measure the resistence of the temp sensor when its in room temperature and we can start from there. I will go the shop now and start working on the solution for this.
If that is the case, I would first try to measure the resistence of the temp sensor when its in room temperature and we can start from there. I will go the shop now and start working on the solution for this.
Last edited by phunk; 01-12-2008 at 01:48 PM.