Good stock block GT35r numbers
#21
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lol people have issues reading paragraphs and skim so let me break it down correct me if i am wrong txthdlm
1.tuned for 8lbs-made 368DD@function Tuned
2.Dyno at AAM made 434DJ@11lbs due to overboosting issue w/13.1afr
3.Retune+reflash+600ccinjectors at 9lbs with @AAM-made 444DJ
1.tuned for 8lbs-made 368DD@function Tuned
2.Dyno at AAM made 434DJ@11lbs due to overboosting issue w/13.1afr
3.Retune+reflash+600ccinjectors at 9lbs with @AAM-made 444DJ
#22
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You just about nailed it on the head.
1.tuned for 8lbs-made 368DD@function Tuned
2.Dyno at AAM made 434DJ@11lbs due to overboosting issue w/13.1afr
3.Retune+reflash+return fuel system at 9lbs with @AAM-made 444DJ[/QUOTE]
1.tuned for 8lbs-made 368DD@function Tuned
2.Dyno at AAM made 434DJ@11lbs due to overboosting issue w/13.1afr
3.Retune+reflash+return fuel system at 9lbs with @AAM-made 444DJ[/QUOTE]
lol people have issues reading paragraphs and skim so let me break it down correct me if i am wrong txthdlm
1.tuned for 8lbs-made 368DD@function Tuned
2.Dyno at AAM made 434DJ@11lbs due to overboosting issue w/13.1afr
3.Retune+reflash+600ccinjectors at 9lbs with @AAM-made 444DJ
1.tuned for 8lbs-made 368DD@function Tuned
2.Dyno at AAM made 434DJ@11lbs due to overboosting issue w/13.1afr
3.Retune+reflash+600ccinjectors at 9lbs with @AAM-made 444DJ
#24
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Glad to see you got the RFS and retune like we spoke about. Making good (but dangerous, in my opinion) #'s. What line was pinched? Since the HKS and UTEC Map were reading off the same line it seems odd that that would be the cause. Of course something could have changed or shifted from the time it left the shop and when you brought it back for the underboosting. When it was on the dyno we were seeing consitant numbers between the HKS and the UTEC.
Promise to let us know when it goes boom?
Promise to let us know when it goes boom?
#25
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Dont worry ill let you know when she goes.... The HKS and the UTEC were never the same, the EVC was actually never on the dyno. Allways 3-4lbs off right? When it was on the dyno I had the MBC remember? No hard feelings or trash talking from me though! AAM just offered me a few things that I couldnt pass up.
Glad to see you got the RFS and retune like we spoke about. Making good (but dangerous, in my opinion) #'s. What line was pinched? Since the HKS and UTEC Map were reading off the same line it seems odd that that would be the cause. Of course something could have changed or shifted from the time it left the shop and when you brought it back for the underboosting. When it was on the dyno we were seeing consitant numbers between the HKS and the UTEC.
Promise to let us know when it goes boom?
Promise to let us know when it goes boom?
#26
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sorry dave didnt mean to put you out like that just trying to put the facts down
i can attest to daves tune since ive been running 370rwhp on a dyno dynamics for over a year and a few months and close to 20k miles. cant argue with those numbers, reliability, and safety of daves tune
However i understand txthdlm quest for stupid power, which he might regret soon if it blows, only time will tell but i agree its definitely not in the "safe range" but im sure its fun and if he can get away with it, why not
i can attest to daves tune since ive been running 370rwhp on a dyno dynamics for over a year and a few months and close to 20k miles. cant argue with those numbers, reliability, and safety of daves tune
However i understand txthdlm quest for stupid power, which he might regret soon if it blows, only time will tell but i agree its definitely not in the "safe range" but im sure its fun and if he can get away with it, why not
Last edited by terps; 03-12-2009 at 06:14 PM.
#27
The car at our dyno day completely untouched tune was running 11 psi with a 13 to 1 AFR. It made around 435whp at that boost level and AFR. If there is any damage to the car, it was done way before our retune and RFS.
The car is set up safe now and makes plenty of power. If and when the car goes "boom", we will throw in a AAM long block and turn up the boost.
The vacuum lines for the utec map sensor, boost gauge, and evc were all tapped into the PCV to plenum vacuum line and the PCV was leaking a little. These important lines should never be tapped into that line. Also on top of it, the vacuum line that was ran into the car for the boost gauge and utec map sensor was ran through the rubber grommet with a very small hole drilled which was pinching the line and causing it to read about half of what it actually was. So when the utec and the boost gauge was reading 5 psi, it was really 10.
The car is set up safe now and makes plenty of power. If and when the car goes "boom", we will throw in a AAM long block and turn up the boost.
The vacuum lines for the utec map sensor, boost gauge, and evc were all tapped into the PCV to plenum vacuum line and the PCV was leaking a little. These important lines should never be tapped into that line. Also on top of it, the vacuum line that was ran into the car for the boost gauge and utec map sensor was ran through the rubber grommet with a very small hole drilled which was pinching the line and causing it to read about half of what it actually was. So when the utec and the boost gauge was reading 5 psi, it was really 10.
Last edited by Jeremy@Altered; 03-13-2009 at 07:22 AM.
#28
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The car at our dyno day completely untouched tune was running 11 psi with a 13 to 1 AFR. It made around 435whp at that boost level and AFR. If there is any damage to the car, it was done way before our retune and RFS.
The car is set up safe now and makes plenty of power. If and when the car goes "boom", we will throw in a AAM long block and turn up the boost.
The vacuum lines for the utec map sensor, boost gauge, and evc were all tapped into the PCV to plenum vacuum line and the PCV was leaking a little. These important lines should never be tapped into that line. Also on top of it, the vacuum line that was ran into the car for the boost gauge and utec map sensor was ran through the rubber grommet with a very small hole drilled which was pinching the line and causing it to read about half of what it actually was. So when the utec and the boost gauge was reading 5 psi, it was really 10.
The car is set up safe now and makes plenty of power. If and when the car goes "boom", we will throw in a AAM long block and turn up the boost.
The vacuum lines for the utec map sensor, boost gauge, and evc were all tapped into the PCV to plenum vacuum line and the PCV was leaking a little. These important lines should never be tapped into that line. Also on top of it, the vacuum line that was ran into the car for the boost gauge and utec map sensor was ran through the rubber grommet with a very small hole drilled which was pinching the line and causing it to read about half of what it actually was. So when the utec and the boost gauge was reading 5 psi, it was really 10.
#29
Well sir, i am not sure who ran all of those lines but we definitely fixed them for Keith. The line that goes from the lower plenum to the passenger side valve cover, where the PCV valve is, is the line that i am referring to. I would never tap important lines into there because the PCV blows out sometimes and you will bleed boost off through the PCV that should be accurately monitored. Please give me a call at the shop if you have any other questions at all.
#31
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The car at our dyno day completely untouched tune was running 11 psi with a 13 to 1 AFR. It made around 435whp at that boost level and AFR. If there is any damage to the car, it was done way before our retune and RFS.
The car is set up safe now and makes plenty of power. If and when the car goes "boom", we will throw in a AAM long block and turn up the boost.
The vacuum lines for the utec map sensor, boost gauge, and evc were all tapped into the PCV to plenum vacuum line and the PCV was leaking a little. These important lines should never be tapped into that line. Also on top of it, the vacuum line that was ran into the car for the boost gauge and utec map sensor was ran through the rubber grommet with a very small hole drilled which was pinching the line and causing it to read about half of what it actually was. So when the utec and the boost gauge was reading 5 psi, it was really 10.
The car is set up safe now and makes plenty of power. If and when the car goes "boom", we will throw in a AAM long block and turn up the boost.
The vacuum lines for the utec map sensor, boost gauge, and evc were all tapped into the PCV to plenum vacuum line and the PCV was leaking a little. These important lines should never be tapped into that line. Also on top of it, the vacuum line that was ran into the car for the boost gauge and utec map sensor was ran through the rubber grommet with a very small hole drilled which was pinching the line and causing it to read about half of what it actually was. So when the utec and the boost gauge was reading 5 psi, it was really 10.
Also unless a line is pinched closed its going to read the same if it half open or full open. Go ahead test it for yourself. Install a 1/4 line and then right in the middle of the line step down to a 7/64" and then back up. This is a measure of pressure, not flow. If anything the boost would help force any pinches open. I have never had a UTEC, boost gauge, my dyno or the EVC read precisely spot on to each other...now that's with over 150 FI installs and tunes. Even with the map sensor calibrated the UTEC reads low.
It's good to hear you're so cavilier with your customers motors. I guess that why I'm the only one that offers a Stock Block FI Warranty in the US. Well over 150 FI installs and tunes and not one blown motor. I have a customer running my setup for over 3 years (almost 4) at 9psi and 400 RWHP Dynojet with multiple autocrosses and its gets driven hard (he's 21 )...still on the stock block.
#34
Hey guys, it doenst matter who did it. Just stating what we found.
I FULLY understand how vacuum lines work but this was a weird case. The EVC was pre grommet and was reading 10 psi and the utec AND boost controller were reading 5 psi. It could have been a combo of a very smashed line and maybe some vacuum line on the map sensor side had a tear in it.
Regardless, its all fixed now and working perfectly, i just hope that no damage was done to his engine previously. The car has a very minor knock under 3000 rpms at very light load that just wouldnt go away. Of course we start with the fuel trims in vacuum and work our way up through the boost levels. We found this right when we hit 1 to 2 psi.
I FULLY understand how vacuum lines work but this was a weird case. The EVC was pre grommet and was reading 10 psi and the utec AND boost controller were reading 5 psi. It could have been a combo of a very smashed line and maybe some vacuum line on the map sensor side had a tear in it.
Regardless, its all fixed now and working perfectly, i just hope that no damage was done to his engine previously. The car has a very minor knock under 3000 rpms at very light load that just wouldnt go away. Of course we start with the fuel trims in vacuum and work our way up through the boost levels. We found this right when we hit 1 to 2 psi.
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