binder

iTrader: (8)

I would just return the 160$ unit. It won't last as long as putting premium brushes in them.

Also, the increased contact patch means more power. If I hold both switches at the same time my drivers window will be closed about the time my passenger window is about halfway up.

350TX

iTrader: (3)

So I have been reading up on this thread and I will be doing this fix. I have already been through the process cleaning the motors (drivers/pass) some time ago which actually made the motor functional again but I knew it would be a matter of time I will either have to bite the bullet and buy a motor or replace the brushes.

Yesterday I went to a dedicated r/c hobby shop and the place looks like it's been there since the '80s with peg boards running floor to ceiling and all... Reminded me when I used to semi-interested in this stuff 20 years ago. So I asked the guy working there that I wanted to purchase some brushes and he totally gave me the stink eye! HA! He said he couldn't remember the last time he sold those, I guess it's pretty old-skool. I left there thinking I had just asked him if they sell boilers for a steam engine! LOL

There are a few other places I'll check out here locally first but maybe I should save some time and just order from the interwebs with the links binder provided... Interesting start so far.

blAk mAx

Last time I went to a hobby shop to buy the brushes they were getting rid of all they had. So I bought them all . (evil laugh)

shiftdrift06

iTrader: (24)

Success! Got it done today. Here some pictures and tips.

Pick the silicone away with a small screwdriver. Little pieces feel like boogers lol.



My HORRIBLE solder job. But it work! So if I can do it, you can too.
Tip for first timers. Make sure your soldering iron is Clean! Sand off the tip while the iron is cold. Where protection. (burnt my finger by accident). Work in well lit and vented environment.


Bought these off ebay. $7 total with shipping.



The new brushes were a tad bit wide. Sand them down abit to make them narrower. I also ended up shortening them abit so it would be easier to slide the main shaft back in. (not pictured) Also you can see solders for the new brushes.



Solder the 2 main wires back.


Slap some silicone on it and its good to go!



All and all I spent $7! You can also add the sand paper or solder. But I already had that laying around.

This motor was actually my 3rd re-manufactured window motor from O'reillys. Even though they advertised lifetime warranty, unlimited replacement. You really have to fight them for it after they replace it once. My second motor only lasted a month! They accused me of wrong installation. It basically escalated to me arguing with counter guy, and bringing out the manager. This third one lasted about a year.

But it works great now! $7 beats $170 for another re-manufactured motor or even dealing with my local O'reillys lol.

binder

iTrader: (8)

awesome! good job on the repair. Thanks for uploading more pictures for other members to reference.

LongSword

If I make it to the hobby store in time I will be tackling this job tonight.

350TX

iTrader: (3)

After going to several of the local hobby shops for the brushes to no avail I was able to purchase the Muchmore bushings from Tower Hobbies online.

I already had previous experience with the motors in regards to taking them apart and cleaning but this would be a first to replace the brushes. This was basically virgin territory for me. I have never soldered anything before but after reading all 10 pages of this thread it definitely gave me some confidence that I can actually tackle this.

Patience was definitely a virtue and a good quality to have. I eventually replaced brushes and the motor works flawlessly. Luckily I didn't have to go through the reset procedure. The motor is a little louder but that was to be expected and I'm hoping once the brushes "bed in" that it will get quieter. I'll be doing this to the other window motor soon but I have another issue with it all together.

Thanks Binder for your post. Who knows how much the total savings to the forum members have been realized through this thread!

binder

iTrader: (8)

You're welcome. I'm glad it helped out some members. Thanks to all that added more detailed pictures as well.

masphx

Can someone post a link or two of where to buy these and what model number?
I wish to do this but not sure which one is the right one.

Thanks.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

the pics in post 184 show a specific brand, but you can use any brand. upright or laydown both work, just have to sand laydown a little more. i just walked into the local rc car shop, said I needed 540 size motor, upright brushes, gave them 3$ and fixed my window motor.

masphx

Are these the right ones. Picked them up tonight...

hchan710

I have the brushes for sale.

I am asking $10 including shipping to 48 states.

Or I can rebuild it for your for $60, return shipping included.

hchan710@hotmail.com

blAk mAx

They look like the right ones. I may be fixing some at Zdays

sambo

can you use carbon brushes?

binder

iTrader: (8)

Those are lay down instead of upright. They will work but you will have to modify them. They are cut out so they lay sideways. In order to use them you will have to use a dremel and round out the contact area while they are standing upright. Once you get the motor apart and compare to the old ones you will see what I mean. Easy fix.

I wouldn't see why not. The standard version work great though so i'm not sure i would spend any extra money.

Asad_A203

So I finally got around to doing this. I swapped in 540 motor blades and resoldered them back but my problem is that the window is still not working. It made a faint whine and that was it. When I took it back out of the car, the magnetic cap thing for the window motor was fairly hot; leading me to believe that it was getting power but there was something else going on.

Any clues or idea on what I should do next?

binder

iTrader: (8)

Did you make sure the brushes are contacting the armature face completely?
Did you solder the proper connections?
Check to make sure the gear isn't binding holding the motor up.

Those would be my thoughts. Sounds like it was trying to spin but the gears were holding it up.

blAk mAx

pix?

Asad_A203

I know for sure that the brushes were making contact and i think the gear isn't binding because I manually turned the motor to get my window back up (it dropped about 3 inches). It definitely didn't feel too smooth when I was turning it though. Does this indicate I might need to grease it? I didn't grease anything after I cleaned the motor, besides a splash of W30 electric motor oil.

In terms of soldering, I think the ones you need to desolder to get access to the burshes was done properly (I copied pretty much everyone's pictures in this thread) but I am on the rocks about the brushes. I couldn't get the solder off the original terminal posts as they were done with copper or something. I ended up soldering ontop of the old wires for the brushes. I spliced one properly but I unfortunately cut the other one too short and had to just solder it on the copper face thing with a piece of the old brush still stuck.

I wish there was a way to check if the motor works or not without hooking it back into the car; that would save me 30-45 minutes.


Sorry, I was in a rush and just wanted to get my door back together. If I attempt it again, I'll be sure to take some pics.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll attack this again this Saturday and take a bunch of pictures.

Plan of action is to remove the splice on the brush and make it to the terminal post (not sure how I will get the old piece of the brush wire off though). Any other suggestions or input until then would be greatly appreciated.

On the bright side, I now can disassemble my door in about 20 minutes lol.

_thom_

Can someone confirm the correct size of the brushes?

The dimensions I've found for a 540 upright brush are:
L 9.9mm, W 4.8mm, H 3.75mm

I had to heavily reshape a set of bosch GB710 alternator brushes (these were the only replacement brushes that I could locate.) However, sanding the carbon made them weak and they crumbled.

My motor still isn't working - manual winding forces the the armature to be pushed upwards (into the top of the cover.) I'd like to take apart the gears to see if anything is broken. Does anyone have a photograph tutorial of how to do that?