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Just finished installing my CJM Stage 1 RFS and Mishimoto radiator and Nismo Thermostat and after 85 miles of driving the car I’ve got a coolant leak on my hands. I drove the car about 8 miles today (engine coolant temp was normal) and after parking I noticed a large puddle of coolant near the driver’s side tire, it looks like it’s dripping from the rear of the engine, didn’t have a chance to investigate any further though… any ideas though?
Actually, I don't think I removed those lines and they're not leaking.
Interesting, looks like you are loosing quite a bit of fluid. Once you narrow down the area of the leak, it may be wise to clean the surrounding location to help determine where exactly the leak is coming from. Additionally, be sure all of your hose connections are nice and tight on both the radiator and thermostat housing.
Interesting, looks like you are loosing quite a bit of fluid. Once you narrow down the area of the leak, it may be wise to clean the surrounding location to help determine where exactly the leak is coming from. Additionally, be sure all of your hose connections are nice and tight on both the radiator and thermostat housing.
Let us know what you find!
I think I may have found the leak… it was the coolant line to the throttle body, I didn’t tighten the clamp on it. I’m hoping that was it, going to take it for a spin after work to confirm…
I’ve actually got a question for you guys… I picked up the Lisle Spill Free Funnel to help me bleed any air pockets from the cooling system but I the radiator cap they provided won’t fit on my Mishimoto radiator, it fit on the stock radiator I pulled from the car, but it seems like the Mishimoto is too big and the cap won’t turn and lock into place… any suggestions? Thanks!
The purge valve is on the passenger side in my G....I assume it's the same of the Z. Maybe it's traveling down something else that is wicking it to the driver's side??
The purge valve is on the passengers side on the back of the engine close to the firewall, it is a small black piece with the Phillips head on it to let the air purge out. I have the same funnel & it works fine without having to purge the valve, for me. I did test the car afterwords by turning on the heater to make sure it was working correctly. Good ruck feLLa
hmm, my spill free works on my mishimoto radiator... dunno
Yeah, it works on my brothers car too (350Z w/Mishimoto radiator too) but it won’t fit on mine, I can’t fit an OEM radiator cap on either… but I think I’ve solved my cooling issues… now I can’t get my fuel pressure to drop below 60 psi!
Was supposed to take my car to Jason today for tuning today too…
You can tweak the radiator cap thing to work... all it does is push down the adapter and put pressure on the gasket. the cap doesnt need to turn all the way into the lock position. Just bend the fingers out a tiny bit until you can get it to twist on at least partially.
Did you upgrade the fuel pump at the same time as installing the fuel system? If so, that is your source of high fuel pressure. 60 is an annoying level... if it was like 55 I would say just set the base pressure to 52 and deal with it sticking up a few psi at idle... but 60 is a little too much idle pressure spike. You need to open the swirl jet up larger for that.
which pump are you currently running?
confirm it can be fixed with the swirl jet enlargement by reving the engine and making sure pressure lowers when you do. If that works, open the swirl just up just a tad bit... it is ideal to keep it as small as you can while still getting the pressure to a point you can tolerate.
You can tweak the radiator cap thing to work... all it does is push down the adapter and put pressure on the gasket. the cap doesnt need to turn all the way into the lock position. Just bend the fingers out a tiny bit until you can get it to twist on at least partially.
Did you upgrade the fuel pump at the same time as installing the fuel system? If so, that is your source of high fuel pressure. 60 is an annoying level... if it was like 55 I would say just set the base pressure to 52 and deal with it sticking up a few psi at idle... but 60 is a little too much idle pressure spike. You need to open the swirl jet up larger for that.
which pump are you currently running?
confirm it can be fixed with the swirl jet enlargement by reving the engine and making sure pressure lowers when you do. If that works, open the swirl just up just a tad bit... it is ideal to keep it as small as you can while still getting the pressure to a point you can tolerate.
Yup, I installed the Walbro 485 fuel pump, DW 1000cc injectors, and CJM stage 1 RFS all in one go.
Ok, to confirm the problem can be fixed by enlarging the swirl jet, do I want the vacuum line connected to the regulator, or should it be disconnected and open to atmosphere?
When testing this, it wont matter about the vacuum line... just crank the adjustment down lower.
Since you put in the 485, its a little more dramatic. That pump is IMHO too big for that sending unit.
Before drilling your swirl jet out, I would actualy entirely remove the swirl jet for a test run. Do not leave it out, but just remove it completely and reassemble and start the engine and see what you can do with the fuel pressure.
The point of this is to find out if any amount of drilling at all will fix it, or if you would just be ruining the swirl jet for no reason.
If removing it allows pressure to go down to where you would like it, then by all means, proceed to enlarge the swirl jet and figure out what size gets you right where you need to be without being too large.
I think I may have found the leak… it was the coolant line to the throttle body, I didn’t tighten the clamp on it. I’m hoping that was it, going to take it for a spin after work to confirm…
I’ve actually got a question for you guys… I picked up the Lisle Spill Free Funnel to help me bleed any air pockets from the cooling system but I the radiator cap they provided won’t fit on my Mishimoto radiator, it fit on the stock radiator I pulled from the car, but it seems like the Mishimoto is too big and the cap won’t turn and lock into place… any suggestions? Thanks!
Great to hear you were able to sort out the coolant leak! As you have mentioned, our radiators utilize a fill-neck and cap size that differs from the factory radiator. Caps are not interchangeable between the two, so the funnel may not fully function with our fill neck. Sorry for the inconvenience! It sounds as if others have provided a solution for properly bleeding the coolant system. Let us know if you have any other concerns we can help out with!
Got a question about my 06 Z. Trying to trace down a large coolant leak in the rear of the engine, I've been using distilled water to get it to leak, but even then I'm having no luck finding said leak. It only leaks after I'd say about half the system is full, but it will leak A LOT enough to where the car is undriveable. The blue circled part is where water is pooling up, underneath the car the water runs down the transmission on both sides. The car doesnt need to be turned on/warmed up for the leak to happen. If anyone has any insight on this I would more than appreciate it, currently at 3 days trying to find the leak, even took out the intake to get more room.
09-22-2014, 12:17 PM
Coolant leak coming from back of the engine?
