nemesis4423

I'm sorry and I'm sure this subject has been covered but I'm new to the forum and I couldnt find anything that gave me a good answer .I just bought a 2003 350z almost a month ago and i wanted to know if it was possible to get at least 300 whp with bolt ons and cams. I would go FI but that would most likely void my warranty at least with bolt ons and cams i can hopefully pass it by because the car was already mildly modded when i bought it. My mod list would be:

-strup headers
-aam y-pipe
-aam test pipes/hfc
-aam 3 inch single exhaust
-jwt cams
-an intake not sure what brand yet
-motordyne lower plenum and 5/16th iso thermal spacer
-kinetix upper plenum
-possibly underdrive pulleys
-and a lot of other stuff i cant remember
any help would be greatly appreciated

0jiggy0

iTrader: (13)

Im sure if u searched youd find the answer, but im going to say no.

cdoxp800

iTrader: (12)

No

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

N

o

blktrack350

iTrader: (8)

no. and you could pick better mods to get more hp. and with all those mods the warrenty would be voided

nemesis4423

Alright thanks for the help yea i was just hoping I could pass everything by or like tell them i didnt do anything to the car since it was already somewhat modified like maybe they wouldnt notice so idk I go back and forth on if i want to go FI or keep it NA.

scmtkings4

iTrader: (4)

it really all depends on the dyno

but i have seen several members here in the 280s, without cams, and LESS than what you have in your list

i think this one guy Yogi? or something like that has exhaust, test pipes, intake, pulleys, 5/16 spacer and MAYBE headers and a UTEC tune. And he showed 283 at the wheels. So i think it depends.

so if you added cams, and other bolts ons maybe 290s? youd be close, but i dont think youd hit 300.

rtiid22

Freeing up drive train loss could help you out as well..

Lighter wheels & Flywheel would probably net you 5-10hp () depending how light you go..

SGSash

iTrader: (3)

We're over 285whp with just throttle body forward intake and port back exhaust

I'm sure a spacer some TB work and some pullies could get it real close to 300whp without touching cams

A dynojet would be showing 300whp already I'm confident!

OCG35

iTrader: (2)

a DE being without variable exhaust cam timing limits possibilities... I'm the sad owner of a DE with cams and oh how I wish exhaust side could be tweaked

some serious hard thought porting and thermal isolation on the intake side and cat delete (true long tune headers) with all previously mentioned mods and a quality tune "might" get you there - depending on what dyno.

One thing to remember is every machine will read different... I have dyno charts that show 294 hp and 261 trq (245 mean avg) AT sedan btw... happily its stronger than many (about all) other NA on that machine - but it really doesn’t mean anything as a number itself... neither does my best 1/4 mile ET of 14.003 (which would be 13.8 or better on many tracks in the county).

Point is, forget about the numbers. Research and build with what makes sense for your goal. It doesn’t matter what you show on the dyno as long as the gains are progressive.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

exactly ^

FAIRLADYZ_MANnE

iTrader: (2)

would a rev up have a chance at making more power?? in any range (top end or mid-range)

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

-strup headers
-aam y-pipe
-aam test pipes/hfc
-aam 3 inch single exhaust
-jwt cams
-an intake not sure what brand yet
-motordyne lower plenum and 5/16th iso thermal spacer
-kinetix upper plenum
-possibly underdrive pulleys
-and a lot of other stuff i cant remember
any help would be greatly appreciated

With all this money you could buy FI..

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

its an 03, its 09 now, how much warranty can you possibly have left?

if you want a reliable 300whp just get a vortech, the base kit will put you around 330whp, its carb legal, and "shouldn't" void your warranty (prolly varies by dealer)

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

no forced induction kit is going to retain the factory warranty - nor will any internal motor work either

can't have it both ways - you either want the protection of a warranty without any potential static from a dealer (any dealer) or Nissan (in which case, leave the car stock), or you want the power/performance that mods can bring. Can't have both

warmmilk

iTrader: (5)

^ i though carb legal kits were supposedly warranty friendly? oh well, not like the op has much warranty left anyway, if any

OCG35

iTrader: (2)

Stillen "offers" a warranty for theirs (for a price) - but that’s an additional warranty, not your OEM warranty... I don’t know if Vortech does.

You could always remove everything I suppose and but together near stock for any claim... but as Adam stated, if you plan to do serious mods - you should get the idea of warranty out of your head... my original plan was to get as much warranty under my belt as possible then go FI - but since then its all taken a different direction.

If you want warranty – drive the car stock for several years… then molest it with power!

b00b00

iTrader: (6)

Last time I checked you could buy a vortech supercharger with the cost of all those bolt-ons, and still be carb legal.

Oh yea, and you could make an easy 350whp out the box.

nemesis4423

yea i've pretty much decided i want to go f/i and the warranty i have is an extended warranty from the dealership i bought the car from but i found out that pretty much anything is going to void the warranty so I'm saying screw it and im going f/i

gabez33

iTrader: (7)

so you have the motordyne ported lower, the spacer, and the kinetix plenum? thats all wrong already