Some people have asked about winter storage, so I thought I would this with you all. . I wrote this for my previous car's forum (club3g.com). Figured, some of you could benefit from it too.

Whether is' a bike, or a car, the procedure is relatively the same.


1. Location Selection
A garage is ideal, but if you have to store it outside, look for a nice clean (preferably paved) area. Be sure to pick a place where snowdrifts do not collect over the winter.
If you are storing it outside, be sure you have an outside car cover.

2. Change Oil
Get an oil and filter change.

3. Wash Your Ride
Do a good thorough job and completely dry it.

4. Add Fuel Stabilizer
Adding fuel stabilizer will make sure that no moister within the fuel will freeze. You can buy this at any general automotive store. Simply add it to your tank just before you fill up. Then, drive the car for a good 15 to 20 minutes. Then just before you get it ready for storage, top up the tank as full as possible.

5. Battery Removal
Once you’ve got your car in the chosen location, remove the battery and store indoors. If you like, you can get a trickle charger, which periodically charges the battery when it needs it. It’s not necessary, but a good option. You can pick one up at any general automotive store.

6. Fogging Oil (Optional)
This step is optional, but some people strongly believe in it. The choice is yours. I would recommend it on cars with high mileage / KMs.

Remove spark plugs and spray a little Fogging oil in each cylinder. This keeps any rust from forming. Replace sparkplugs using proper torque. NEVER over tighten. Again, you can buy this at any general automotive store.

7. Raise Car
Place the car on jack stands, making sure the stands are under the frame and not the transmission, sway bars, or anything else that is not suppose to support weight. If you do not have jack stands, 6x6 wooden blocks will do.

8. Remove Tires (Especially if aftermarket)
It’s a good idea to remove the tires and store them indoors. Once you remove them, let out approximately half the air. Store them in a cool dry area. If you are stacking them one on top of another, be sure to place cardboard in-between each rim so you don’t scratch it with the other.

If you don’t want to jack the car up, and you have your stock rims and tires, put them on and place very thick cardboard under each tire. This helps reduce flat spots on the rubber from standing the whole winter. In this case do not deflate the tires at all. In fact, you can over inflate about 5 to 7 pounds because during cold weather, the tire pressure will drop.

If you are storing your car outside and want to still remove the rims and tires, you will need to bag each rotor. Just use a strong plastic bag and some duct tape. Make sure you seal the rotors and calipers up so no snow and junk can get in there.

9. Silicone Pouches (Optional)
If you can get your hands on some silicone pouches, through a few in the car. (3 or 4 in the front and the same in the back) If not, a box of baking soda will do the trick. Why? You don’t want your car getting all moist and misty. That’s where mold starts.

10. Car Cover
Lastly, cover the car with an outdoor cover if you are storing it outside. If the car will be stored in a garage, a standard car cover will be fine. Then, cross your fingers for a short winter.

NOTE:
It's not advisable to start the car every two weeks. This could do more damage than good. First, the fogging oil that you may have put in goes to waste. Second, the car has sat in cold weather with all the oil drained off the various internal components, and you want to turn the car over?!? After that, you'll want to bring it up to a nice toasty warm operating temp?!? Does any of that sound good???

NO. You want the car to stay relatively the same temp all winter long. This minimizes seals, gaskets, etc., from expanding and contracting due to warming the car up then letting it cool down again.

I've stored all my cars and bikes this way, and I have yet to have any problems at all. In case you're wondering, I didn't just pull this out of my ***, I wasted about an afternoon at work surfing the web for info. I took the information that was practical and made common sense.

 

Good writeup, i was looking for something like this because i may be storing mine for the winter. I may be able to keep mine in the garage where i live and drive it on the clearer days. You are saying driving the car every week or so is not recommended over just letting it sit the entire winter?

 

This winter storage is for people who will park the car within the next week or so and pull it out next spring.

I'm in Toronto, so there's no chance to drive my car. I'm referring to when people have their car sitting for a month in sub zero weather, and decide to go warm it up. Not a good thing. The entire car is sitting below freezing, so starting it up every month in the dead of winter isn't good at all.

But if you're still going to drive it during the winter (crazy) then you're not really storing it are ya.

 

First, thanks for the write up.

But the below portions is what I want to debate about, so many people have told me to start my car up and leave it on for 10-15 minutes once every 2 weeks.

Some people drive their Z all winter long and I'm sure there will be lots of time where they won't start the car up for a few days and then will have to start the car up and go somewhere. I'm sure the car can handle it. Why is it so different when storing it?

Both scenerior has all the fliuds probably cold as hell already before starting your car up.

I just want to hear more people's argument on this subject so I can see what I should do. Thanks.

 

Zlleh.. Thanks for the comment.

Think of it this way, what good can come from starting a freezing cold car every 2 weeks. No movement means no chance for any possible damage due to extreme cold. We've all read countless articles and heard about cold starts being the absolute worst thing for a car. So, if you're storing it, taking the battary out, etc... why start the car. Why not wait until spring and warmer weather to drive your baby. You living in Ottawa, I doubt you'll be driving your car in mid January.

 

Good writeup! Thanks for the info!

 

I live in long island and am thinking of driving the car in winter on the days it does not snow. for the other day si have a old beater. Also i ond thave a garage. is there any advice that you would give me as to how i should take care of my car. it s is a new 05 roadster with only 1300 miles on it.

Thank you

 

I have family in Long Island. Exit 62! That's how I know to get there. Long Island Expressway to Exit 62. LOL

Anyyway, I'm up in Toronto, and I also have an 05 Roadster. I'm not going to drive my car at all. It's hard on the roof, and if ya ever get caught in freak snow storm, or even some freezing rain, you're done for.

If ya really want to drive it, keep it salt free. That goes for any car really.

 

thats exactly where i am in Stony brook. Exit 62. ..
but i dont have to drive it as a have a old eclipse that i could drive. But i also dont have a garage so i have to store it on the pavement. is there any advice for me. I just bought it 1 month ago.

If i use a car cover, how often should i start it up and drive it??

any advice would be appreciated

 

Dude, if you're not going to drive it for the entire winter, follow the instructions, and forget about it until spring. It's the best adivce there is IMO.

 

any paticular car cover you would recommned for outdoor storage

 

Not sure of the make, but I know they have those heavy duty ones. The outer skin is tuff, like a canvas, and the inner is a soft furry fabric. Oh, I think mine is a Simonize?? I remember mine saying indoor / outdoor. I like it because it's thick enough to keep the dust out. The last one I had was horrible. It was like a thick women's stocking... dust settled right through it. Junk really. I'm lucky enough to have a garage, so I'm not worried about snow.

 

Great write up! Just want to know the reason for jacking the car up? Is it to prevent flat spots on the tires, there's another reason? And if you jack the car up, what's the purpose of removing the wheels? Thanks!

 

Just remember that after fogging the engine, its also a good idea to replace the sparkplugs with moisture absorbing ones....

 

to prevent flat spots and the other reason is to relieve your springs from constant pressure.

+1 on the write up, my question is why remove the battery? I'm storing my car in my garage, does it make a difference on battery removal?

Also, some of the suggestions you explain and others are obivous, some I don't understand why. Can you edit the post and add in the "why" its a good idea. Thanks.

 

Nice write up.

One more thing you should do is plug your exhaust pipes. You can use anything from a balled up towel, to an exhaust pipe plug(motorcycle shops have them).

This keeps animals / moisture out. Let chip and dale find somewhere else to nest, know what I mean...

 

The day when I find male strippers (chip and dale) hinding out in my exaust will be the day when I use my 9mm on humans instead of Cariboo's!!!

 

I put that there to see who would get the hole shot on a male stripper joke. Congratulations. You win a free oil change cessna!

 

YAHOOO!!!!
So were do I go to redeem my prize???lol

 

You already got it, just ask chip and dale standing behind you.