TRACK VERSION Can't go on track?
02-01-2005, 04:52 PM
#21
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Originally posted by Zcool
Your mechanic might be right about the tires. 14,000 miles on stock tires and they could be be worn pretty low.
Your mechanic might be right about the tires. 14,000 miles on stock tires and they could be be worn pretty low.
02-01-2005, 05:55 PM
#24
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Originally posted by kelvin1704
How do judge if my tires are suitable for the track?
How do judge if my tires are suitable for the track?
There are some actual track/street tires (VictoRacer) or then of course race tires ( compound R)
Fred..
02-02-2005, 03:48 AM
#25
Just make sure the tire wear is even, get correct tire pressure (maybe a bit more than usual), look at your pads (less than 50% wear is fine) and do a 15-20 minutes stint on the track.
After, check how much wear the tires have got, check your brakes. You will have an idea of how hard you are on your car.
Do not forget to do a cool down lap to let the brakes cool down slowly.
After, check how much wear the tires have got, check your brakes. You will have an idea of how hard you are on your car.
Do not forget to do a cool down lap to let the brakes cool down slowly.
02-02-2005, 05:16 AM
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It also all depends on what your goals are. I took a completely stock touring roadster on the track and had a great time. I wasn't looking to push to the absolute edge of the Z's performance, just looking to go a little faster and have a little more fun than I can on the steet.
I was relatively gentle on the car and had a great time. There were people at the track with just about everything under the sun with 4 wheels. There were plenty of guys racing stock tires and stock brakes, were we as fast around as the modified cars, of course not, but we had a great time.
It all depends on your goals.
I was relatively gentle on the car and had a great time. There were people at the track with just about everything under the sun with 4 wheels. There were plenty of guys racing stock tires and stock brakes, were we as fast around as the modified cars, of course not, but we had a great time.
It all depends on your goals.
02-03-2005, 09:20 AM
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Originally posted by mr2fasterthanyo
[B]FYI-
dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are all compatible with each other. dot 5 might not be. please check with your brake manufacturer before using dot 5. (DOT 5 is silicone based, normal brake fluid is Poly Glycol Ether)
[B]FYI-
dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are all compatible with each other. dot 5 might not be. please check with your brake manufacturer before using dot 5. (DOT 5 is silicone based, normal brake fluid is Poly Glycol Ether)
using DOT 3/4/5.1 is fine - do not use DOT 5.
02-04-2005, 12:54 AM
#32
Originally posted by mr2fasterthanyo
FYI-
dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are all compatible with each other. dot 5 might not be. please check with your brake manufacturer before using dot 5. (DOT 5 is silicone based, normal brake fluid is Poly Glycol Ether)
here is a good discription
SILICONE BASED FLUID
Fluids containing Silicone are generally used in military type vehicles and because Silicone based fluids will not damage painted surfaces they are also somewhat common in show cars.
Silicone-based fluids are regarded as DOT 5 fluids. They are highly compressible and can give the driver a feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid and this increases the feeling of a spongy pedal.
Silicone based fluids are non-hydroscopic meaning that they will not absorb or mix with water. When water is present in the brake system it will create a water/fluid/water/fluid situation. Because water boils at approximately 212º F, the ability of the brake system to operate correctly decreases, and the steam created from boiling water adds air to the system. It is important to remember that water may be present in any brake system. Therefore silicone brake fluid lacks the ability to deal with moisture and will dramatically decrease a brake systems performance.
POLY GLYCOL ETHER BASED FLUIDS
Fluids containing Poly glycol ethers are regarded as DOT 3, 4, and DOT 5.1. These type fluids are hydroscopic meaning they have an ability to mix with water and still perform adequately. However, water will drastically reduce the boiling point of fluid. In a passenger car this is not an issue. In a racecar it is a major issue because as the boiling point decreases the performance ability of the fluid also decreases.
Poly glycol type fluids are 2 times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system.
FLUID SPECIFICATIONS All brake fluids must meet federal standard #116. Under this standard is three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 (for fluids based with Polyalkylene Glycol Ether) and DOT 5 (for Silicone based fluids).
MINIMAL boiling points for these specifications are as follows:
Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point
DOT 3 401ºF 284º F
DOT 4 446º F 311º F
DOT 5 500º F 356º F
DOT 5.1 518º F 375º F
oh, and PS, becareful with brake fluid..... it works as a great paint remover.
for more information regarding brake fluids, and brakes in general, see this page
Brake Fluid Link
FYI-
dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are all compatible with each other. dot 5 might not be. please check with your brake manufacturer before using dot 5. (DOT 5 is silicone based, normal brake fluid is Poly Glycol Ether)
here is a good discription
SILICONE BASED FLUID
Fluids containing Silicone are generally used in military type vehicles and because Silicone based fluids will not damage painted surfaces they are also somewhat common in show cars.
Silicone-based fluids are regarded as DOT 5 fluids. They are highly compressible and can give the driver a feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid and this increases the feeling of a spongy pedal.
Silicone based fluids are non-hydroscopic meaning that they will not absorb or mix with water. When water is present in the brake system it will create a water/fluid/water/fluid situation. Because water boils at approximately 212º F, the ability of the brake system to operate correctly decreases, and the steam created from boiling water adds air to the system. It is important to remember that water may be present in any brake system. Therefore silicone brake fluid lacks the ability to deal with moisture and will dramatically decrease a brake systems performance.
POLY GLYCOL ETHER BASED FLUIDS
Fluids containing Poly glycol ethers are regarded as DOT 3, 4, and DOT 5.1. These type fluids are hydroscopic meaning they have an ability to mix with water and still perform adequately. However, water will drastically reduce the boiling point of fluid. In a passenger car this is not an issue. In a racecar it is a major issue because as the boiling point decreases the performance ability of the fluid also decreases.
Poly glycol type fluids are 2 times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system.
FLUID SPECIFICATIONS All brake fluids must meet federal standard #116. Under this standard is three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 (for fluids based with Polyalkylene Glycol Ether) and DOT 5 (for Silicone based fluids).
MINIMAL boiling points for these specifications are as follows:
Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point
DOT 3 401ºF 284º F
DOT 4 446º F 311º F
DOT 5 500º F 356º F
DOT 5.1 518º F 375º F
oh, and PS, becareful with brake fluid..... it works as a great paint remover.
for more information regarding brake fluids, and brakes in general, see this page
Brake Fluid Link
02-04-2005, 07:04 AM
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thought you might find this interesting,
about 10 seconds into this video there is 350Z on the track. See, they can go on the track
s2k vs 350z at Monza
about 10 seconds into this video there is 350Z on the track. See, they can go on the track
s2k vs 350z at Monza
02-04-2005, 07:37 AM
#36
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Originally posted by EnthuZ
Great video! What kind of car is the camera in?
There are a bunch of on track footage from Z's & G's out there.
Not only CAN it be done, It's a BLAST!!!!
Too bad Spring is a loooooooooooooog ways off.
Great video! What kind of car is the camera in?
There are a bunch of on track footage from Z's & G's out there.
Not only CAN it be done, It's a BLAST!!!!
Too bad Spring is a loooooooooooooog ways off.
02-04-2005, 07:43 AM
#37
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yes, it is.
and any car can be tracked. just stay with in its limits. hell i have run with cars from ferrari's to lambo's to completely stock civics and even minivans and pickups at autocrosses. track days are more limited to faster cars, but with some many classes in autocross, you will be amazed by the cars that show up, and people h ave a blast no matter whta they do.
you will be, the Z is an excellent car. just do the little maintenance things we said, and go have fun. don't expect to win. find an instructor or someone that has been around a while and ask them to ride with you and evaluate your driving.
be open to criticism, take their advice, and you will become a much better driver. trust me, the first few times out there, you will not be great, and you will realize that. but as i said swallow your pride and have someone ride-along with you.. their advice will make worlds of difference. give your car time to cool down in between runs, and you will be fine.
if a completely stock 130 FWHP, 1991 mr2 can take a track (how i drove it the first year) a z should be fine.
if you have any other questions, or need advice, let us know. we will help you out. we all were track virgins at one point as well.
and any car can be tracked. just stay with in its limits. hell i have run with cars from ferrari's to lambo's to completely stock civics and even minivans and pickups at autocrosses. track days are more limited to faster cars, but with some many classes in autocross, you will be amazed by the cars that show up, and people h ave a blast no matter whta they do.
you will be, the Z is an excellent car. just do the little maintenance things we said, and go have fun. don't expect to win. find an instructor or someone that has been around a while and ask them to ride with you and evaluate your driving.
be open to criticism, take their advice, and you will become a much better driver. trust me, the first few times out there, you will not be great, and you will realize that. but as i said swallow your pride and have someone ride-along with you.. their advice will make worlds of difference. give your car time to cool down in between runs, and you will be fine.
if a completely stock 130 FWHP, 1991 mr2 can take a track (how i drove it the first year) a z should be fine.
if you have any other questions, or need advice, let us know. we will help you out. we all were track virgins at one point as well.
02-04-2005, 01:27 PM
#38
for first time on the track, if you take the time to learn the track and techniques, the stock track model is more than anyone can handle. Of course if you continue to go to track and your skills improves, then you should consider some of the things people have recommended here, pads, fluids, etc.
I tracked my Touring stock couple times. You'll be amaze how great the stock Z is for track as compare to some of the other cars out there!!
I tracked my Touring stock couple times. You'll be amaze how great the stock Z is for track as compare to some of the other cars out there!!
02-07-2005, 01:33 AM
#39
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BAD NEWS!
I done tracking. It was fun!
However....
I trash my car. Just during the last LAP! gee... why does this have to happen..
Well, My cluth at that time when i press down, didn't retract... so it means i totally do not have any gear i can get into at all.
I sent it to the mechanic, the mechanic said its not the "master pump" problem... its the other pump.... it said about some plastic thingy... i have no clue...
comments?
I done tracking. It was fun!
However....
I trash my car. Just during the last LAP! gee... why does this have to happen..
Well, My cluth at that time when i press down, didn't retract... so it means i totally do not have any gear i can get into at all.
I sent it to the mechanic, the mechanic said its not the "master pump" problem... its the other pump.... it said about some plastic thingy... i have no clue...
comments?
02-07-2005, 01:35 AM
#40
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and just for your Info, before i track my car, i sent it to the mechanic to check. He said my brake fuel is already a 4.1 dot.
I adjusted my tire pressure to a few notch more as recommended and that's about it.
I adjusted my tire pressure to a few notch more as recommended and that's about it.