sentry65

iTrader: (11)

The Z obviously handles great at high speeds

something like the elise gradually starts feeling more sluggish at higher speeds.

how often do you go over 100mph though?


It's kinda too bad it's so heavy because the corvette weighs the same and yet has 25% more power. It's also bigger and feels big.

The only real reason for the unibody is for crash tests. I don't think any supercars use any unibody designs

I wish there was some sort of solution to getting the unibody to weigh less, but seems like the only thing to do is drill a million holes in it which would take a tremendous amount of work for probably not tons of weight savings.

I like the idea of stripping the Z interior, but it doesn't look pretty at all. Something like the lotus elise is made to look raw like that and arguably looks pretty decent considering how stripped it is, but the Z isn't that way.

From what I understand, getting all fiberglass panels would save 100lbs and all carbon fiber panels will save 200lbs, but obviously not worth it.

I don't see a reasonably good looking Z inside and out coming in at below 3000lbs. You'd have to start compromising looks in a bigger way

2800lbs is about the lowest i've ever heard of a Z being and that was a race car and you knew it from looking at it - totally raw, not something you'd want to take a date out in

HyperSprite

iTrader: (6)

If I get hit by a Ford Explosion, at least I have a fighting chance.

The Z is just a big car in every direction.

Chris

UsafaRice

Mine at the track is under 3000 and the only interior piece (visibly) missing is the passenger seat. I've yet to get ahold of a carbon fiber rear hatch, but that will definitely put me under 3000.

Stripping the interior will not save you much weight. A lightweight battery will save as much weight as stripping the interior. I also go over 100 mph just about everyday in the Z and over 200 mph in the USAF T6 Texan-II everday.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

if you don't mind me asking, what have you done to your Z to get it to or around 3000lbs with looking pretty much stock?

I suppose it would be easily possible if you have the base model. I guess 3000lbs maybe is a bit easy to reach, but I think getting much under 3000 and you're going to be buying new CF body panels, plastic windows/nets etc which starts adding up in cost and can be a bit of a hassle to get done (meaning won't be a DIY thing for most people)

I have the track model like you though which is 3225lbs stock

my estimation for my car is

tilton clutch 30lbs
spare tires/tools 35lbs
drained washer fluid 5lbs
UR pulley 6lbs
crawford cats 20lbs
crawford headers 5lbs
nismo exhaust 9lbs
ripped out rear speakers/sub plate 5lbs
crawford strut bar 2lbs
jwt popcharger intake 2lbs
removed engine cover, plastic dust guards, intake duct 1lb
just under half tank of gas 60lbs

things that have added weight:
350evo sway bars +13lbs
koyo radiator guessing +10lbs
stillen engine dampener +2lbs
grounding kit +2lbs

so I think i'm around 3072lbs or so currently

I plan on getting the hawker oddesy battery which will save around 18lbs considering you have to count the weight of the brackets.

I'd also like to get aftermarket seats which together might save 20-30lbs over stock

I'm going to get nismo wheels and 255 and 285 tires so that'll add about 30lbs over the stock track wheels/tires

It's a quest, that's for sure. Little by little.

Armitage

iTrader: (15)

Just because it loses PEAK torque doesn't mean anything. Because of the raised redline and higher hp output, it actually makes more tq at a higher RPM than the previous iteratin of the engine did, meaning it has a broader torque band. The engine will propel the car as fast, if slightly not faster, than the normal Z engine.

I'm no physics major, but if (HP x 5252) / RPM = TQ, then:

(300 hp x 5252 RPMs) / 6400 = 246.19 TQ
(287 hp x 5252 RPMs) / 6200 = 243.12 TQ

As you can see, the new engine is making 3 ft-lbs of torque more 200 RPM's higher than the previous engine. Supposedly this difference has led to .1-.2 second differences in lap times around the track, according to some posts about magazine articles testing the new engine. I guess it is only a matter of time before we see if it really holds true.

Most of all, remember peak numbers don't really mean crap; they sell cars. Power under the curve is what determines acceleration and speed. Its very similar to stereo systems. No one cares about peak power ratings; it's all about the RMS (continuous) power that the stereo/amp can put out. That is the number one should be concerned about for performance.

Armitage

iTrader: (15)

Unless your referring to the larger tires, the rims I believe weigh nearly the same as the Track rims.

Blue Liquid

I don't think the Base model whould have faired as well due to the lack of a LSD. Also, lightweight wheels make a huge improvement in weight savings. I run 17 inch SSR Competitions, I swear I can feel a difference in acceleration with those on the car vs the stock 17's. 35th anniv. chrome wheels are heavy pigs.

Armitage

iTrader: (15)

Agreed. The Track rims would've saved curb weight as well as rotational mass. And if the Z had better tires stock, I think it would've fared much, much better.

shimz350z

Regarding the question comparing it to the stock supra twin turbo(well respected for speed) it's lighter. And it's heavier then the s2k(well respected for handling) and we perform similiar numbers compared to these two cars. That's not bad I don't think.

CatastrophZZ

it's all about $$$, if you're willing to pay more than $33000, you'll have a 2900lb or less Z. they're not going to sell you a car that weights under 3000 lb with composits that costs them a **** load for just $33000+-. they're not making much profit that way.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

that's right, my mistake

also, the good stoptech rotors save weight - like 12lbs or something total - as well as perform and look better

Brandon@Forged

Personally, I don't think 3200lbs is heavy considering it is a V6 motor. The Enthusiast weighs 3197 wet weight, manual transmission, which isn't that bad imo. A single Ti exhaust, Ti headers, Ti y-pipe, Ti test pipes would save some weight. Carbon fiber doors, carbon fiber hatch (Varis, Seibon, and Fiberimages), cf front fenders, front bumper, rear fenders, rear bumper. Lexan windows, any of this would help reduce weight. Lighter radiator, take the spare and jack out. Lighter wheels. Lighter flywheel, underdrive pulley's (not sure if this would save much). One of the best ways to reduce times would be for yourself to lose weight, you're going to have to be in the car obviously, so the lightest you can get for your height the better for times.

Z33

I loves my Z, but in the Real World(tm), no stock Z will ever be as good overall as a sports car costing $15-60k more. Nissan will sell more of them, though, because a Z gets you most of the way there for not bad money, and does it in a way that more people can actually live with. And we all know that's the only name of their game.

The rest of us make a few mods here and there, and undo a few of Nissan's compromises, and end up with a much better car than we bought. But if it wasn't a really good sports car to begin with, no sensible amount of money would make it one, IMHO.

del105

iTrader: (4)

I weighed my B stock auto-x car 3 weeks ago and it weighed 3049 lbs in stock prepped. I weighed it again today w/ less than a gal. of gas at 2996 lbs.

These are the only mods done to the car.

05 350z enthusiast
Koni SA yellows (couldn't afford the DA's)
Hotchkis FSB
Carbotech bobcats w/ super blue fluid
Amuse TI Y-pipe
Jic TI exhaust
Enkie RPF1 + some 23mm spacers for the front
275/40/17 kumho 710's
home made pantyhose panel air filter

removed floor mats and spare/tools

The car i admit is heavy and not the best car to drive on the track, but its not all bad. I think the total package makes a great all around car.[IMG]9223.com/ebay/z1.jpg[/IMG]

lunartick13

If Nissan would some how kept the Z just under 3000 lbs. which is feasable with out going to extremes the car right out of the factory would be doing the 1/4 mile in the high 13`s, but there are some things you can do to reduce the weight.
Here are my suggestions:
1. remove the rear wiper and motor.
2. remove the spare tire and jack
3. keep you gas tank under 1/2 full
4. change your bat. for one of those non convetional type batteries.
5. get rid of the standard 17'' wheels for some lighter wheels.
6. emty out you windshield fluid container
7. last but not least it helps a lot if you don`t weight a lot.

This are not expenssive to do other than the wheels!!

Just my 2 cents....

HyperSprite

iTrader: (6)

You do realize this only stops rocks and that the most harmful stuff gets right past it. You should run that on the dyno, I would be you loose power over stock too. I am not hating or anything, just figure you want your motor to last.

Chris

Brandon@Forged

350Z does do high 13's stock. IMO, this how the times should be laid out for normal 350Zs (238-244rwhp stock):
13.6 - Great driver
13.8 - Good driver
14.0 - Decent driver
14.2 - Needs practice

I plan on getting 13.8 - 14.0 while bone stock, will post timeslips and pics, possibly a video.

Strife350z

iTrader: (4)

i'd also want to add test-pipes to the list of mods above... although it'll lean you out a bit, but there's about 20-25 lbs of weight savings to be had off the front of the car w/ a nice set of (resonated) test pipes... not to mention the fact that it'd free up about 5 whp as well

-20 lbs
+5 whp

= pretty good mod

OT but has anyone tested their A/F with *just* test pipes before? I'd be interested in seeing the ratios... i suspect 14s across the board dropping to high 12s or low 13s at redline... close to stoich?

Mrtemp

Says who they look dated? I have one myself hehe. Im sure many agree that the 240Z has a timeless design. I don't quite agree with the 'not as sought' after either. The old 240z's still hold their value considering that they are a 30 year old sports car. Compare to the 84-89 300Zx's that go for around the same price. These cars are getting rarer and rarer nowadays.

n8236

Yes, the change of rims and type of tires definitely make a considerable weight difference. Most ppl neglect the fact that tires weight A LOT, it really makes a world of differnece as does light weight rims. There was a thread I read about tire weights and the guys that had 'em noted a definite quickness in pickup and acceleration. Well, I guess the weight issue could of been worse if it was to have awd . But no doubt the Z is a damn good car for the money