DanOnTheRoad

So many people of asked about engine break-in periods, myself included. It seems that information varies from person to person, domestic to import cars, and forum to forum really.

I've gathered some articles that I found on the net that may shed some light, or at a minimum, be an interesting read.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This has been posted here before and has some good information. Motorcycle motors mostly, but definitely relates to all motors in general.

http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html
Quick little article about engine break-in.

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Refers to motorcycles but again relates to all combustion motors.

http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylo...kInPeriod.html
This is for a BMW. Really, it’s the first one that states to take it easy for the first ~1500 miles.


http://www.ducati.net/faq.cfm?id=51
Seems to refer that ring seating happens on manufacturer testing / QC checks.

Key Points that I've picked up throughout all the articles I've read.

- Piston Ring Seating is important

- Cylinder wall glazing occurs when the engine is run at power levels too low to produce temperatures high enough to expand the piston rings sufficiently to prevent a film of oil being left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly called glazing.

- High heat is not good, yet low heat isn't either.

- Break-in also refers to drive train, suspension, breaks, etc, and these parts may have different break in periods / methods than that of a motor.

For me, I personally agree with the hard initial break-in period. There seems to be a lot of data to substantiate it. The key is to find the sweet spot between a proper hard break-in and kicking the crap out of your car. I believe that can only be answered with each individual make and model. Why? Because compression ratios, cylinder size, HP, TQ, etc etc... all vary from model to model.

The Brickyard Rat

iTrader: (1)

You left out one key source: the manual provided by the guys who built the car.

DanOnTheRoad

I pick up my Z on Wednesday, so I haven't actually read it yet

The Brickyard Rat

iTrader: (1)

That would be a reason!!

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure if it's correct or whatever to do so, but I am staying within the guidelines of the manual.

I try to drive it somewhat "hard" but only up to 4000 rpm's. (I love the blinking rev indicator)

I don't stay in one gear for too long... maybe 1.5 minutes max. I also move the shifter (clutch in) in/out of all the gear gates when i'm at a long red light or something to break in the bushings or whatever.

I let the car warm up at least 30sec.

I try....really...hard...... not to go WOT.

sisco534

iTrader: (4)

Might as well you can be the GINNY you have manufactory warranty go for it but some advice you say your not driving hard past 4k rpm's when you are seeing the REV Light you are at 7k on the new 05 model that is hard if you ask me ...most people will tell you also the manual break-in is imprtant down the road if you make it that long.Drive at 4k or under for at least 2000 or 3000 miles manual says longer but you make your opinion dont listen to MANY other Z onwers. Good Luck

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

There's something called a trip computer. You can set the rev light to come on at any RPM you choose. I chose 4000. It starts blinking at about 3700 and stays solid at/above 4000.

I can't tell what point you're trying to convey because of your horrid grammar... but it sounded like an insult.

So buzz off, k thankx bai.

DanOnTheRoad

Yeah, I didn't understand his post to well, but I don't think it was an insult. Just bad typing.

illZ

.

Z BOY

iTrader: (41)

the english language called...it wants to give you some advice: noun, verb, period. noun, verb, period. noun, verb, period.
ps: guinea.

DanOnTheRoad

So back on topic... I'm still not convinced on the proper break in.... I pick up my Z on Wednesday. That basically gives me 4 more days to find the truth.

BigMoeTaki42

People can tell me to break it in hard all they want, but are they gonna pay for the bill if something breaks and the dealership says I didn't follow proper break in guidelines? Hell no. I'd rather do what the manual tells me and have my a$s covered in case something does go wrong. And the whole piston ring seal thing makes sense, but what about the rest of the drivetrain? Besides, who are you going to listen to, some guy on the internet or the people who made the car?

DanOnTheRoad

Yes, I understand the worries of not having the warranty cover it, but you would have to do some pretty serious and malicious damage in order for the warranty to be void.

I agree with you concerning the drive train and other parts of the car, but I think it is possible. Most of the articles talk about high presure and back presure. This is definitely possible without putting a lot of strain on the drive train, and other parts. They key, as I mentioned before, is finding the sweet spot.

Amnbex

I agree.

Brandon@Forged

I say run it hard, if something breaks, take it to the dealer. I don't think they have ANY WAY of knowing that you didn't follow break-in. (just be sure to reset the ECU before you go just to make sure)

I doubt anything would happen though.

pglover

I have a ZR, my wife the Quest. Manual has identical break-in for both - pretty much same engine but tuned very differently. I would not put too much faith in the manual.

Brandon@Forged

That's exactly what I was going to ask, if Nissan uses the same "recommendation" for every car. Which means, if they do, that whatever they suggest is probably twice as long as how many miles you should really take it easy. And everything as far as revving and shifting could be done 50% more and still be fine.

DanOnTheRoad

Good Point. I was speaking to my Uncle this weekend and asked him about his 99 Maxima. He remembers the same thing. Break-in easy for 2000 km or so.

It would be interesting to see if people with a 4 cylinder Nissan has the same thing in their owner's manual.

arejohn

Yep. It's in the Nissan Owner Manual. Whoda thunk it. I suspect this is to protect Nissan warranty costs more than extend the life of that very tolerant and wonderful 3.5 V6. Little problems at 3k rpm can be big problems at 6k rpm. Give it a hundred miles to insure all the nutz were installed then run the **** out of it. Why wait. 50 miles at 50 mph in first gear and you are ready to go racing. Then again, better not do that. I can't remember if it's 50 miles at 50mph or 50km at 50 kph. I have to get back to you on that.

DanOnTheRoad

I'm almost convinced there would be almost no difference in performance between a Z broken in as per the owners manual, verses a Z broken in like a race car. If I had to choose, I would go with the latter, as it makes more sense logically and mechanically. (at least in my head)