!!I really need help!!
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From: new jersey
!!I really need help!!
I have another post previous to this one. But I need an immediate response right now. So moderator, can you delete my previous post. Thanks. It was the starter that was causing the car not to start.
But I have more problem now. The service manager believes that my clutch and flywheel are scorched and told me that they are not covered under warranty. Plus they said that they are scorched from me abusing my car but I rarely take my car above 4000 rpm.
So I called the district manager for consumer affair and she's telling me the same thing that I have to pay out of my pocket. I don't know who to go to for help. Isn't it common sense that no matter what you do to your car, clutch and flywheel shouldn't be burnt after 3000 miles?
But I have more problem now. The service manager believes that my clutch and flywheel are scorched and told me that they are not covered under warranty. Plus they said that they are scorched from me abusing my car but I rarely take my car above 4000 rpm.
So I called the district manager for consumer affair and she's telling me the same thing that I have to pay out of my pocket. I don't know who to go to for help. Isn't it common sense that no matter what you do to your car, clutch and flywheel shouldn't be burnt after 3000 miles?
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under normal driving no. but if you slip the clutch alot or something like that, its pretty hard on the clutch
whats your symptoms? does the engine rev high and the car not act like it wants to go when you press the gas pedal. that means youve burnt the clutch up
whats your symptoms? does the engine rev high and the car not act like it wants to go when you press the gas pedal. that means youve burnt the clutch up
Last edited by **; Nov 1, 2005 at 07:46 PM.
If you have driven a manual transmission for a while and are not slipping the clutch .....
It might be that Nissan is just mining for money. Ask to see the parts before they put it back together. Take the parts to another transmission shop and get their opinion. If the parts are still in the car it is really hard to tell if the clutch is messed up or not. Unless it is slipping or making squeeling noises etc..
Clutch is unfortunately considered to be a part that is subject to wear. So, Nissan doesn't cover it. If you fried it racing..... and you would have to be doing 5K rpm drops to burn it up in 3K miles that's on you. If it was misadjusted at the factory and it was slipping down the road from day one. That's on Nissan. However, very hard to prove. My clutch was misadjusted from the factory. I readjusted it myself. I have a much better release level and control now.
I don't know if this helps or not. But, information is power. Good luck!
It might be that Nissan is just mining for money. Ask to see the parts before they put it back together. Take the parts to another transmission shop and get their opinion. If the parts are still in the car it is really hard to tell if the clutch is messed up or not. Unless it is slipping or making squeeling noises etc..
Clutch is unfortunately considered to be a part that is subject to wear. So, Nissan doesn't cover it. If you fried it racing..... and you would have to be doing 5K rpm drops to burn it up in 3K miles that's on you. If it was misadjusted at the factory and it was slipping down the road from day one. That's on Nissan. However, very hard to prove. My clutch was misadjusted from the factory. I readjusted it myself. I have a much better release level and control now.
I don't know if this helps or not. But, information is power. Good luck!
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From: Pluto
Sounds premature, but then again there is aways an exception.
Well, there are two questions: 1.) Is this your first manual? 2.) Did you abuse or drive your vehicle incorrectly?
I think we need to establish this first.
If the answer to the first two questions are No, then the next question is did you take your vehicle back to the original dealer where you bought your vehicle? East coast dealers are notorious for giving you the shaft, even if you have a legit problem, if you did not buy the vehicle from their dealer. They are very @ssbackwards like that.
Next, since you have already spoken to Nissan's consumer affairs number, coordinate with the person at corporate and the dealer's service manager to have a meeting with the regional dpsm and to have your vehicle inspected by a dpsm or district parts and service manager. This is an individual who works for Nissan North America but deals with dealers (who are franchises) to resolve customer concerns such as yours. They visit dealers on a regular basis and you should be able to find out when they will visit your dealer next. (Usually within 2 weeks).
Depending on your relationship with the dealer and how you present your case to the dealer service manager and dpsm, they may provide some "goodwill assistance" another way of saying they may give you a new clutch and you pay for the labor or something like that.
If you are provided such an offer, make sure the dealer is charging you "warranty rate" and not the retail rate for part or labor. (Warranty rate is the rate which Nissan and the dealers have agreed to for warranty repairs and goodwill repairs, etc., usually cost plus 40%) The dealers are actually not allowed to charge over the warranty rate for parts or labor, if the dpsm, or consumer affairs dept at corporate get involved.
If all else fails then you can make a claim with the BBB Autoline or your state attorney general's office. If you file a claim with either dept, they will contact Nissan's arbitration dept and then you will be speaking to some other folks at Nissan corporate.
Remember, the squeaky wheel will aways gets the oil so if you are patient and persistent, you will get some assistance on your matter. Just don't be an @ss or an immature brat when you make your case. You will just make it easier for them to deny you assistance. You have to be professional. It's a game, I know, but the difference between getting what you want and just b1tching about on the forum are two different things. Think about it and be smart. Good luck.
Well, there are two questions: 1.) Is this your first manual? 2.) Did you abuse or drive your vehicle incorrectly?
I think we need to establish this first.
If the answer to the first two questions are No, then the next question is did you take your vehicle back to the original dealer where you bought your vehicle? East coast dealers are notorious for giving you the shaft, even if you have a legit problem, if you did not buy the vehicle from their dealer. They are very @ssbackwards like that.
Next, since you have already spoken to Nissan's consumer affairs number, coordinate with the person at corporate and the dealer's service manager to have a meeting with the regional dpsm and to have your vehicle inspected by a dpsm or district parts and service manager. This is an individual who works for Nissan North America but deals with dealers (who are franchises) to resolve customer concerns such as yours. They visit dealers on a regular basis and you should be able to find out when they will visit your dealer next. (Usually within 2 weeks).
Depending on your relationship with the dealer and how you present your case to the dealer service manager and dpsm, they may provide some "goodwill assistance" another way of saying they may give you a new clutch and you pay for the labor or something like that.
If you are provided such an offer, make sure the dealer is charging you "warranty rate" and not the retail rate for part or labor. (Warranty rate is the rate which Nissan and the dealers have agreed to for warranty repairs and goodwill repairs, etc., usually cost plus 40%) The dealers are actually not allowed to charge over the warranty rate for parts or labor, if the dpsm, or consumer affairs dept at corporate get involved.
If all else fails then you can make a claim with the BBB Autoline or your state attorney general's office. If you file a claim with either dept, they will contact Nissan's arbitration dept and then you will be speaking to some other folks at Nissan corporate.
Remember, the squeaky wheel will aways gets the oil so if you are patient and persistent, you will get some assistance on your matter. Just don't be an @ss or an immature brat when you make your case. You will just make it easier for them to deny you assistance. You have to be professional. It's a game, I know, but the difference between getting what you want and just b1tching about on the forum are two different things. Think about it and be smart. Good luck.
Last edited by DBZ; Nov 1, 2005 at 08:23 PM.
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From: new jersey
Originally Posted by DBZ
Sounds premature, but then again there is aways an exception.
Well, there are two questions: 1.) Is this your first manual? 2.) Did you abuse or drive your vehicle incorrectly?
I think we need to establish this first.
If the answer to the first two questions are No, then the next question is did you take your vehicle back to the original dealer where you bought your vehicle? East coast dealers are notorious for giving you the shaft, even if you have a legit problem, if you did not buy the vehicle from their dealer. They are very @ssbackwards like that.
Next, since you have already spoken to Nissan's consumer affairs number, coordinate with the person at corporate and the dealer's service manager to have a meeting with the regional dpsm and to have your vehicle inspected by a dpsm or district parts and service manager. This is an individual who works for Nissan North America but deals with dealers (who are franchises) to resolve customer concerns such as yours. They visit dealers on a regular basis and you should be able to find out when they will visit your dealer next. (Usually within 2 weeks).
Depending on your relationship with the dealer and how you present your case to the dealer service manager and dpsm, they may provide some "goodwill assistance" another way of saying they may give you a new clutch and you pay for the labor or something like that.
If you are provided such an offer, make sure the dealer is charging you "warranty rate" and not the retail rate for part or labor. (Warranty rate is the rate which Nissan and the dealers have agreed to for warranty repairs and goodwill repairs, etc., usually cost plus 40%) The dealers are actually not allowed to charge over the warranty rate for parts or labor, if the dpsm, or consumer affairs dept at corporate get involved.
If all else fails then you can make a claim with the BBB Autoline or your state attorney general's office. If you file a claim with either dept, they will contact Nissan's arbitration dept and then you will be speaking to some other folks at Nissan corporate.
Remember, the squeaky wheel will aways gets the oil so if you are patient and persistent, you will get some assistance on your matter. Just don't be an @ss or an immature brat when you make your case. You will just make it easier for them to deny you assistance. You have to be professional. It's a game, I know, but the difference between getting what you want and just b1tching about on the forum are two different things. Think about it and be smart. Good luck.
Well, there are two questions: 1.) Is this your first manual? 2.) Did you abuse or drive your vehicle incorrectly?
I think we need to establish this first.
If the answer to the first two questions are No, then the next question is did you take your vehicle back to the original dealer where you bought your vehicle? East coast dealers are notorious for giving you the shaft, even if you have a legit problem, if you did not buy the vehicle from their dealer. They are very @ssbackwards like that.
Next, since you have already spoken to Nissan's consumer affairs number, coordinate with the person at corporate and the dealer's service manager to have a meeting with the regional dpsm and to have your vehicle inspected by a dpsm or district parts and service manager. This is an individual who works for Nissan North America but deals with dealers (who are franchises) to resolve customer concerns such as yours. They visit dealers on a regular basis and you should be able to find out when they will visit your dealer next. (Usually within 2 weeks).
Depending on your relationship with the dealer and how you present your case to the dealer service manager and dpsm, they may provide some "goodwill assistance" another way of saying they may give you a new clutch and you pay for the labor or something like that.
If you are provided such an offer, make sure the dealer is charging you "warranty rate" and not the retail rate for part or labor. (Warranty rate is the rate which Nissan and the dealers have agreed to for warranty repairs and goodwill repairs, etc., usually cost plus 40%) The dealers are actually not allowed to charge over the warranty rate for parts or labor, if the dpsm, or consumer affairs dept at corporate get involved.
If all else fails then you can make a claim with the BBB Autoline or your state attorney general's office. If you file a claim with either dept, they will contact Nissan's arbitration dept and then you will be speaking to some other folks at Nissan corporate.
Remember, the squeaky wheel will aways gets the oil so if you are patient and persistent, you will get some assistance on your matter. Just don't be an @ss or an immature brat when you make your case. You will just make it easier for them to deny you assistance. You have to be professional. It's a game, I know, but the difference between getting what you want and just b1tching about on the forum are two different things. Think about it and be smart. Good luck.
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From: new jersey
Originally Posted by Fletch69z
Good luck man. Hopefully it is something that can be proved to be faulty, but if you're just slipping the clutch all the time they aren't gonna cover it.
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From: AKRON, OHIO
You do not have to necessarily do burn outs and drop the clutch at high rpm to burn up a clutch. If you ride the clutch constantly or slip the clutch excessively starting out you can burn up a clutch pretty quick. I have seen people use clutch slipping to hold them on a hill at a light rather than have to get off the brake and use the clutch to start from a stop. This is just poor driving and these people should stick to an auto.
There are also a few mechanical problems that could cause to early demise of the clutch. Improper adjustment or a binding that cause the clutch not to fully engage when the pedal is released. These would be rare and you should have seen telltale signs before hand in the form of slippage or noises.
As someone else stated if the clutch has not been slipping then the service department may be just fishing for some easy money. When I got my tires replaced on the TSB the service manager called me and said I needed new brake pads and the rotors turned. I asked him how much material was left on the pads and he said 10%. I thanked him and told him I would wait because I was short on money. I immediately ordered Hawk pads which I was going to do anyway. When I installed the Hawks I saw that the original pads still had 50% material left. Be careful yo are not getting the same deal here.
There are also a few mechanical problems that could cause to early demise of the clutch. Improper adjustment or a binding that cause the clutch not to fully engage when the pedal is released. These would be rare and you should have seen telltale signs before hand in the form of slippage or noises.
As someone else stated if the clutch has not been slipping then the service department may be just fishing for some easy money. When I got my tires replaced on the TSB the service manager called me and said I needed new brake pads and the rotors turned. I asked him how much material was left on the pads and he said 10%. I thanked him and told him I would wait because I was short on money. I immediately ordered Hawk pads which I was going to do anyway. When I installed the Hawks I saw that the original pads still had 50% material left. Be careful yo are not getting the same deal here.
Originally Posted by Rampage
You do not have to necessarily do burn outs and drop the clutch at high rpm to burn up a clutch. If you ride the clutch constantly or slip the clutch excessively starting out you can burn up a clutch pretty quick. I have seen people use clutch slipping to hold them on a hill at a light rather than have to get off the brake and use the clutch to start from a stop. This is just poor driving and these people should stick to an auto.
There are also a few mechanical problems that could cause to early demise of the clutch. Improper adjustment or a binding that cause the clutch not to fully engage when the pedal is released. These would be rare and you should have seen telltale signs before hand in the form of slippage or noises.
As someone else stated if the clutch has not been slipping then the service department may be just fishing for some easy money. When I got my tires replaced on the TSB the service manager called me and said I needed new brake pads and the rotors turned. I asked him how much material was left on the pads and he said 10%. I thanked him and told him I would wait because I was short on money. I immediately ordered Hawk pads which I was going to do anyway. When I installed the Hawks I saw that the original pads still had 50% material left. Be careful yo are not getting the same deal here.
There are also a few mechanical problems that could cause to early demise of the clutch. Improper adjustment or a binding that cause the clutch not to fully engage when the pedal is released. These would be rare and you should have seen telltale signs before hand in the form of slippage or noises.
As someone else stated if the clutch has not been slipping then the service department may be just fishing for some easy money. When I got my tires replaced on the TSB the service manager called me and said I needed new brake pads and the rotors turned. I asked him how much material was left on the pads and he said 10%. I thanked him and told him I would wait because I was short on money. I immediately ordered Hawk pads which I was going to do anyway. When I installed the Hawks I saw that the original pads still had 50% material left. Be careful yo are not getting the same deal here.
but they have to becareful on who they lying to
like if u know what ur doing and they lie u can shove it right back in his face
but u know its a tough world ppl need to eat
=(
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From: new jersey
My lawyer told me that it would cost way more to go to the court and fight this case. So I went into the dealer today and looked at the clutch and it has tiny burnt spots and the mechanic was telling me that if they just put it back, whole transmission would collapse. They said whole repair is gonna cost $2500 and that is way too much money to spend on a brand new car to fix. Is there anybody that could help me in person that lives in Jersey. Anyone? or anyone that works for Nissan.
Originally Posted by nickintempe
I would think that if your clutch is that fried after 3000 miles and you haven't been absolutely abusing the car, all it would take is look at your Bridgestones to see if you're lying...
this is my second manaul transmission, i'll admit im not the greatest, i downshift alot and driving in toronto traffic, i have to ride the clutch alot there is no reason why your Z at 3000 miles would have a burnt out clutch while mine at 10k is runnin great and i drive her pretty hard, it has to be on their end i hope everything works out for you and sorry to hear about the problems nissan is giving you.
btw what is clutch slipping and slip the clutch sorry not good with terms
and thx
I would have to agree. Even if you beat the hell out og it 3k miles is a pretty short life for a clutch. I would definately find a way to make the repairs come out of their pocket.
Originally Posted by LIdrew
The tranny will collapse?? $2,500? That's wrong. Clutch should be 1K MAX installed. A clutch can't collapse a tranny...
+1 on "tranny will collapse." That's just stupid.