Why am i burning OIL???
02-21-2006, 11:59 AM
#1
Why am i burning OIL???
Part 1:
About 3 weeks ago I took my Z in for an oil change to the dealer. After reading the thread on 350zmotoring.com about the guy who was burning oil and got the new motor; I decided to mention that I have been going through about 1 to 2 quarts in-between oil changes. The service tech said that that is not good at all. He said to come back in 1000 mile to get an oil consumption test done.
So, on Friday I had my oil consumption test done and I had gone through about a quart in 1000 miles. This is obviously not good. They wanted bring my car back monday to have the heads taken off the see if there was any sludge causing this problem, and to have a compression test, and some other type of test that I can’t remember. They said that if the problem is not in the heads then chances are I will be getting a new long block. This is great news for me. This dealership is definitely one of the better ones. I am curios though, what exactly the problem is? Does anyone have any idea?
Part 2:
ok so this is the up-date.
i just got off the phone with the dealership. they were really vague on what the problem is. however they said they need to call Nissan to get authorization to give me a new motor. so i think that is good news. lets all bow our heads and pray for my car.
About 3 weeks ago I took my Z in for an oil change to the dealer. After reading the thread on 350zmotoring.com about the guy who was burning oil and got the new motor; I decided to mention that I have been going through about 1 to 2 quarts in-between oil changes. The service tech said that that is not good at all. He said to come back in 1000 mile to get an oil consumption test done.
So, on Friday I had my oil consumption test done and I had gone through about a quart in 1000 miles. This is obviously not good. They wanted bring my car back monday to have the heads taken off the see if there was any sludge causing this problem, and to have a compression test, and some other type of test that I can’t remember. They said that if the problem is not in the heads then chances are I will be getting a new long block. This is great news for me. This dealership is definitely one of the better ones. I am curios though, what exactly the problem is? Does anyone have any idea?
Part 2:
ok so this is the up-date.
i just got off the phone with the dealership. they were really vague on what the problem is. however they said they need to call Nissan to get authorization to give me a new motor. so i think that is good news. lets all bow our heads and pray for my car.
02-21-2006, 12:45 PM
#4
I went through the same thing, my Z was a 2003 with 30k miles. After about 3 weeks of argueing back and forth with nissan, they gave me a new shortblock (i wanted a longblock, push for the longblock) the longblock will give you a new tranny, block, heads, accessories, instead of a shortblock that is only the block and they must reassemble the rest.
After my Z in the shop for 6 weeks it came back out with a new block, the new block has been great so far, but it still was not a good experience overall.
Mine was concluded to be warping of the cylinder walls of some sort. My ECM was also bad, lol. What a nightmare.
Goodluck.
After my Z in the shop for 6 weeks it came back out with a new block, the new block has been great so far, but it still was not a good experience overall.
Mine was concluded to be warping of the cylinder walls of some sort. My ECM was also bad, lol. What a nightmare.
Goodluck.
02-21-2006, 12:47 PM
#5
Originally Posted by nkohler
I went through the same thing, my Z was a 2003 with 30k miles. After about 3 weeks of argueing back and forth with nissan, they gave me a new shortblock (i wanted a longblock, push for the longblock) the longblock will give you a new tranny, block, heads, accessories, instead of a shortblock that is only the block and they must reassemble the rest.
After my Z in the shop for 6 weeks it came back out with a new block, the new block has been great so far, but it still was not a good experience overall.
Mine was concluded to be warping of the cylinder walls of some sort. My ECM was also bad, lol. What a nightmare.
Goodluck.
After my Z in the shop for 6 weeks it came back out with a new block, the new block has been great so far, but it still was not a good experience overall.
Mine was concluded to be warping of the cylinder walls of some sort. My ECM was also bad, lol. What a nightmare.
Goodluck.
02-21-2006, 12:56 PM
#7
this is the exact process i went through.
Leakdown test is testing the motor for leaks essentially, to see if any rings, heads or seals are bad. My leakdown test came back as 50% leakage on cylinder 1 and 3.
From here they will order a shortblock, it will take a day or two to arrive, then took my dealer about a week to install. Pray that your dealer has a good mechanic because basically your motor needs to be totally tore down, then reassembled with a short block. That is a lot of room for error.
Feel free to ask any questions because it sounds like you are going to be going through the exact thing i did about 3 months ago. They keep your old block and send it back to nissan so they can check it out to see why it failed.
Leakdown test is testing the motor for leaks essentially, to see if any rings, heads or seals are bad. My leakdown test came back as 50% leakage on cylinder 1 and 3.
From here they will order a shortblock, it will take a day or two to arrive, then took my dealer about a week to install. Pray that your dealer has a good mechanic because basically your motor needs to be totally tore down, then reassembled with a short block. That is a lot of room for error.
Feel free to ask any questions because it sounds like you are going to be going through the exact thing i did about 3 months ago. They keep your old block and send it back to nissan so they can check it out to see why it failed.
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02-21-2006, 01:01 PM
#8
one small thing to point out if you changed your exhaust to one with less restriction, it reduces back pressure , and that makes you burn more oil, sure that isn't the case with you, just putting that out there.
the leakdown test must put pressure inside the engine, they see how long it takes to decrease over a certain time, a pressure check...i don't know how they wil acctually do it though, perhaps one piston at a time?
the leakdown test must put pressure inside the engine, they see how long it takes to decrease over a certain time, a pressure check...i don't know how they wil acctually do it though, perhaps one piston at a time?
02-21-2006, 01:04 PM
#9
yeah one at a time.
My car was burning a lot of oil, about a quart every 500 miles. I had intake/test pipes as the only mods at the time, they didnt give me any guff about the mods.
With the new block it has little/none oil burn and I have a lot more mods now than with the old block.
My car was burning a lot of oil, about a quart every 500 miles. I had intake/test pipes as the only mods at the time, they didnt give me any guff about the mods.
With the new block it has little/none oil burn and I have a lot more mods now than with the old block.
02-21-2006, 01:08 PM
#10
Originally Posted by sean1967
one small thing to point out if you changed your exhaust to one with less restriction, it reduces back pressure , and that makes you burn more oil, sure that isn't the case with you, just putting that out there.
the leakdown test must put pressure inside the engine, they see how long it takes to decrease over a certain time, a pressure check...i don't know how they wil acctually do it though, perhaps one piston at a time?
the leakdown test must put pressure inside the engine, they see how long it takes to decrease over a certain time, a pressure check...i don't know how they wil acctually do it though, perhaps one piston at a time?
02-21-2006, 01:15 PM
#11
sure, mods will make it burn faster, putting more strain on the motor, but those mods dont cause these types of things.
if they approved you the shortblock, the hard part for you is over, just make sure that you break the new block in well and if anything at all doesnt seem right with it, take it back to the dealer asap. if they give you any crap, call nissan north america consumer affairs.
if they approved you the shortblock, the hard part for you is over, just make sure that you break the new block in well and if anything at all doesnt seem right with it, take it back to the dealer asap. if they give you any crap, call nissan north america consumer affairs.
02-21-2006, 01:16 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Netko350Z
I hope to have the same thing done myself....
I went through 1 qt in 1k...going in for a consumption test as soon as it comes out of storage.
What year and how many miles is yours?
Mine is 04 with 7,500miles
I went through 1 qt in 1k...going in for a consumption test as soon as it comes out of storage.
What year and how many miles is yours?
Mine is 04 with 7,500miles
We all know that for them to deny warranty coverage, they have to actually PROVE that the aftermarket part was the cause of the malfunction.
-LamaZ
02-21-2006, 01:29 PM
#14
Originally Posted by nkohler
sure, mods will make it burn faster, putting more strain on the motor, but those mods dont cause these types of things.
if they approved you the shortblock, the hard part for you is over, just make sure that you break the new block in well and if anything at all doesnt seem right with it, take it back to the dealer asap. if they give you any crap, call nissan north america consumer affairs.
if they approved you the shortblock, the hard part for you is over, just make sure that you break the new block in well and if anything at all doesnt seem right with it, take it back to the dealer asap. if they give you any crap, call nissan north america consumer affairs.
02-21-2006, 01:33 PM
#15
Ive read everything from people saying break it in nicely and be easy on the motor, and people who say just drive it like you normally drive it.
So i broke mine in by driving it normal, which for me is, 50% normal driving, and 50% pedal to the metal. No problems so far after 6k miles.
So i broke mine in by driving it normal, which for me is, 50% normal driving, and 50% pedal to the metal. No problems so far after 6k miles.
02-21-2006, 02:16 PM
#16
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I believe brake-in is covered in the owners manual. It's on line if you don't have yours. It goes something like this: don't run the **** out of it for 500 to 1200 miles and don't operate at the same RPMS for extended periods. Something hard to do on a performance car and who knows what was done to it on test drives. Brakes also have a brake-in procedure.
02-21-2006, 02:54 PM
#17
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the longblock will give you a new tranny, block, heads, accessories, instead of a shortblock that is only the block and they must reassemble the rest.
02-21-2006, 03:32 PM
#18
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This must be random because alot of 02-05 Maxima guys and G35 guys are saying the same thing that they are burning alot of oil and folllowed the Mfg's break in etc.
02-21-2006, 03:55 PM
#19
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Give your engine at least 5,000 miles before using synthetic oil, let the rings seat well, I'd change the oil at 2000 miles then at 5000, you should be ok at that point for syn.
02-21-2006, 05:00 PM
#20
Originally Posted by lamaz
Nekto, I noticed that you have Motordyne plenum spacers listed on your signature. Let me know if the dealership trys to give you S**t for having this. Some dealers like to play the "after market void warranty" game.
We all know that for them to deny warranty coverage, they have to actually PROVE that the aftermarket part was the cause of the malfunction.
-LamaZ
We all know that for them to deny warranty coverage, they have to actually PROVE that the aftermarket part was the cause of the malfunction.
-LamaZ
Yea I have it but have yet to install it...
I want to figure out my problem before I go any further.
My KJR pully and MD spacer are sitting on my office floor...kinda sad
...All that I have are my K&N and Borla TD installed. No way in HELL they are going to say that caused the problem!
I want to get this resolved soon so I don't have any major down time this summer
