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Old 02-24-2006, 03:00 PM
  #21  
davidv
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Oh boy another best oil thread. Can someone PM me the results? Appreciated.
Old 02-24-2006, 03:02 PM
  #22  
n8vz
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"German" Castrol 0W-30, good stuff, if you can find it.
Old 02-24-2006, 03:18 PM
  #23  
raymondgo
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Motor oil the Best Motul 300v 5W40
Old 02-24-2006, 04:15 PM
  #24  
compitaveggie
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Royal purple is the best!!! Mobil 1 sucks
Old 02-24-2006, 04:27 PM
  #25  
davidf
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Well that stinks, here I am setting on 4 full cases of mobil-1 0w40 European formula [I used it in my 03 GTI turbo] and now I won't put it in my Z because I've read so many mobil-1 users are burning oil. It currently has R/P from the previous owner and does not burn.
Old 02-24-2006, 05:33 PM
  #26  
ZstruggleZ
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i use castrol syntec 10/30
Old 02-24-2006, 05:44 PM
  #27  
RBlover69
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Originally Posted by TSCNismo
At any HIGH PERFORMANCE SHOP!!!...over here in CALI we have a Super Autobacs...its a really great brand!!! i've been putting the same oil for the past 3 years...and WOW..you could really feel the difference....

http://www.torcoracingoils.com/main/index.asp
how many bottles did u get.
Old 02-24-2006, 05:52 PM
  #28  
Z_Driver
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Originally Posted by drifter23
Not worse advice...if you go synthetic in the beginning. Your oil seals might leak. Due to the fact that sythetic oil is thinner than OEM oil. And the seals should be worn in with the OEM motor oil before adding synthetic to the car. You can do what you like. Just giving some advice to the ones that want to hear it.
Er .... don't you mean rings? You just want to make sure the rings are seated before you use syn. Some people think with the microfinish that you should wait 10K and make sure it's broken in. I'm going to go with NISSAN and say it is 1200 miles. I just wanted to make sure it was seated for sure and I waited until 7K miles. Great even and high compression here and no leaks.

Seals will leak if you change over to syn on a high mileage engine sometimes where the dino won't.
Old 02-24-2006, 05:58 PM
  #29  
Z_Driver
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Originally Posted by davidf
Well that stinks, here I am setting on 4 full cases of mobil-1 0w40 European formula [I used it in my 03 GTI turbo] and now I won't put it in my Z because I've read so many mobil-1 users are burning oil. It currently has R/P from the previous owner and does not burn.
If the rings are seated properly and your motor isn't broken in yet the motor will burn oil for a long time. If you go back to dino for awhile that will give the rings a second chance to seat and cure this condition sometimes. It least the oil consumption will go down. Try again in 5-10K miles and see if it still burns oil. Sometimes a blend/vis of works I have heard. LS1 motors are known for this.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:00 PM
  #30  
Jun
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Amsoil.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by streetracer
Mobil 1 10/30 synthetic. I hear its pretty good. If there is a better one please post it.
You can use that but 5-30 is recommended (9-6 owners manual) and seems to work better in the microfinish motors.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by showstoppertk
using mobil 1 5w30 full synth for 4k miles and burned about 1 1/2 qts. switched to royal purple 10w30 and haven't burned a drop since. also its not that expensive. I buy mine for $5.49/qt at checkers.
That might just be the vis change you made not the oil itself. I've seen the same thing in other close tolerance motors. Not to mention not all 10-30 are the exact same viscosity.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by fahrenheit350
RED LINE 10W30
Redline is awesome stuff. I would be using it in all of my cars except it went from 3.95 to 7.95 per qt this year for me. I can get the Mobil 1 for 4.12 and it is more readily available. The newer Mobil 1 has tested to be almost as good as the Redline and way more durable than what I need since I replace my oil every 4-5K anyways.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:18 PM
  #34  
Mike Wazowski
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I run Royal Purple in everything. Never burn a drop. I used Mobile 1 for 2 oil changes and noticed that I went through about 1 quart every 3K miles. I also noticed my oil pressure ran higher with the Mobile 1. Once I switched to Royal Purple everything was fixed.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by USN HM 350Z
I run Royal Purple in everything. Never burn a drop. I used Mobile 1 for 2 oil changes and noticed that I went through about 1 quart every 3K miles. I also noticed my oil pressure ran higher with the Mobile 1. Once I switched to Royal Purple everything was fixed.
I've heard good stuff on RP. However, I have never seen an oil analysis. Do you know of anyone that has? Or maybe, you have?
I used to be able to get that around the corner from my house at the auto store. Just when I thought I would try it (Redline price increase) they stop carrying it and I would have to drive 65 miles RT to get it.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:54 PM
  #36  
Mike Wazowski
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From Performance Auto & Sound

Friction (in the form of traction) helps us launch our rides at the drag strip and navigate corners by sticking our tires to the asphalt. Friction helps us bring our cars to a stop by letting our brake pads grip our rotors. Friction doesn’t help us when we are trying to spin our highly tuned engines to ridiculous revolutions at incredible compression levels.

The dictionary defines friction as “a force that resists the relative motion or tendency to such motion of two bodies in contact.” Translated, this means that friction is a force that causes two items in contact to want to move in the same relative direction. In the case of a stationary object, like the bearings around our crankshafts, friction is a force that resists the turning of the crankshaft. Friction commonly manifests itself as heat. If you have ever seen a race car at night, you’ll see its brake rotors glowing red. The generation of heat is how the energy is wasted.

So, how do we overcome friction? By lubricating the surfaces with the most slippery substance we can find. In our engines, this is our oil. Without oil, our engines would be lucky to survive a trip to the corner store, and a hard launch from a stop light would do it in for sure.

One company that has established an excellent reputation for itself in terms of providing enthusiasts with high-quality lubricants is Royal Purple of Porter, TX. Royal Purple offers a complete line of synthetic automotive, motorcycle, two-stroke and industrial lubricants, as well as additives.

Royal Purple® motor oil contains a proprietary compound called Synerlec®. Synerlec® allows the molecules in the oil to stick together and resist thinning out. Friction (or damage) occurs when the lubricant is squeezed out from between two surfaces and they (the surfaces) come into contact with each other. Synerlec® resists this.

The use of Synthetic fluids improves automobile performance in many aspects. The decrease in friction results in increased horsepower, decreased wear and increased mileage. Royal Purple also claims that service intervals can be increased to as much as 12,000 miles once an engine is clean and free of contaminants.

Our experience with Royal Purple® lubricants has been quite positive. A while ago we replaced the engine and transmission fluid in our 1999 Nissan Maxima with Royal Purple® 5W30 engine oil and Max-Gear® 75W90 transmission lubricant. With the help of Budget Performance Exhaust in Burlington, ON, we were in the midst of some extensive upgrades to the Maxima and were making regular trips to the local dyno for testing. Power output numbers jumped by about 5 hp with only minor changes, which in the past had yielded differences of 1 or 2 hp. We can only attribute this significant gain in power to the replacement of the fluids. With only exhaust work (F-Pipe, B-Pipe and muffler) an under-drive pulley and the synthetic fluids, our Maxima’s power production jumped from 165 hp to 187 hp and peak torque was now just shy of 200 lb-ft. The car ran a best of 14.7 seconds at the strip: not bad for a four-door family car.

Other well-respected tuners and engine builders have found similar power gains after switching to Royal Purple® fluids. Joe Sherman, winner of the 2003 Popular Hot Rodding Engine Masters Challenge, gained almost seven horsepower and maintained engine temperatures below 132° F by using Royal Purple® synthetic lubricants. The Engine Masters Challenge was judged on torque and horsepower production, so the choice of lubricants was paramount to Sherman’s success. His 365.2 cubic inch Chevy Small Block produced a corrected 650 hp and 528 lb-ft of torque.

So what makes Royal Purple’s synthetic lubricants so good? Royal Purple is ‘manufactured’ in chemical plants. Poly-Alpha-Olefin (PAO) bases are most commonly used in synthetic lubricants. PAOs are similar in chemical properties to extremely expensive pure parafinic mineral oil but contain no sulfur, no phosphorus, and no metals. Having eliminated mineral oil’s unwanted molecular components, the clean molecular design of synthetic oils shows its superiority.

Royal Purple also offers an engine coolant additive called Purple Ice®. Purple Ice® is a surfactant. The property of a surfactant that assists us is its ability to reduce the surface tension of liquids. In our cooling systems, this results in improved thermal transfer and reduced engine temperatures. Purple Ice® also contains corrosion inhibitors and lubricants to keep seals working well. Purple Ice® can be used with Ethylene Glycol as well as Dex-Cool® type coolants.

Though there are similar products available on the market, Royal Purple has established itself as being the only one to consistently demonstrate documented horsepower increases, which translates directly to measurable performance increases. If you want to increase your cars’ performance, longevity and even mileage, it’s time to switch to a high-quality synthetic product like Royal Purple®.
Old 02-24-2006, 06:57 PM
  #37  
Mike Wazowski
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Oklahoma State University & North Carolina State University have both done research on it also.
Old 02-24-2006, 07:34 PM
  #38  
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Amsoil! Hands Down The Best
Old 02-24-2006, 08:26 PM
  #39  
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ROYAL PURPLE
Old 02-25-2006, 06:13 AM
  #40  
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Where is our in-house chemical engineer when we need him, wired 24/7, are you around sir?

Would you care to comment on viscosity for same weight different brand oils, the buzzwords for additives that oil makers use to make people buy their oil.

If there are any independant tests done based on lubrication theories, let it come. Every other description is not worth looking into, its usually a marketing gimmick.


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