how far do you push down the clutch pedal when shifting?
Originally Posted by Z_freak
Thanks MD, I understand hyperextending the clutch because mine does it going into reverse, if i let off a little from the floor it goes in better(that does not sound right but ok)...., I more wanted to find out if a pedal stop on the oem would extend the life and also if I put a Nismo clutch in would it work with that......
Remeber you also have to disable the Kill switch on the clutch that does not allow the car to start if the clutch is not fully depressed if you put in a pedal stop.
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From: So-Cal - Ready to go?
The Kill switch is really easy to get to work if you have a pedal stop...
pop out the rubber stopper on the tab that sticks out to press the trigger... put a bolt in there with 2 nuts... adjust it so it hits the trigger when your clutch pedal hits the pedal stop
or... just jump the two wires... :-/
pop out the rubber stopper on the tab that sticks out to press the trigger... put a bolt in there with 2 nuts... adjust it so it hits the trigger when your clutch pedal hits the pedal stop

or... just jump the two wires... :-/
The later Zs were designed with a higher engagement so you dont' have to push the clutch as far. It was done so you spend less time during a shift.
I rarely push the clutch all the way down.
I rarely push the clutch all the way down.
Does anyone know who makes a "pedal stopper" for the Z ? It's a billet piece that screws on the floor (under the clutch pedal) so you can push the clutch all the way down, but negates that empty travel where the clutch doesn't engage? I tried searching the web, but I'm not sure what it's called. I saw it in Bavarian Autosport (catalogue of aftermarket parts for BMWs) but have since threw it away. Anyone?
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From: So-Cal - Ready to go?
How to make a pedal stop:
2.5" x 4" piece of sheet metal with 5 holes in it...
1 on each corner and one in the middle...
Weld a nut over the middle hole...
put a nut on a bolt and turn it till it is at the head of the bolt...
thread bolt into center nut so it sticks out...
place on firewall at a location where the bolt will come into contact with the back of the clutch pedal...
make a hole in the firewall for the bolt (IF NEEDED)...
fasten to firewall with self tapping screws / rivets...
DO NOT DRILL OR ANYTHING TO FAR PAST THE FIREWALL!
Done!
How to adjust:
W/ the car OFF... Lift the rear wheels off the ground...
Put car in gear (2nd 3rd doesnt really matter) ((CAR OFF REMEMBER))
Have a buddy try turning the rear wheels (forward)... while the wheels are trying to be turned, slowly press down the clutch until the rear wheels spin freely... once they spin freely this is the point in which the clutch is released...
For OEM Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel 1"-1.25" AFTER the above point...
For TILTON Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel UP to .5" after the above point...
2.5" x 4" piece of sheet metal with 5 holes in it...
1 on each corner and one in the middle...
Weld a nut over the middle hole...
put a nut on a bolt and turn it till it is at the head of the bolt...
thread bolt into center nut so it sticks out...
place on firewall at a location where the bolt will come into contact with the back of the clutch pedal...
make a hole in the firewall for the bolt (IF NEEDED)...
fasten to firewall with self tapping screws / rivets...
DO NOT DRILL OR ANYTHING TO FAR PAST THE FIREWALL!
Done!
How to adjust:
W/ the car OFF... Lift the rear wheels off the ground...
Put car in gear (2nd 3rd doesnt really matter) ((CAR OFF REMEMBER))
Have a buddy try turning the rear wheels (forward)... while the wheels are trying to be turned, slowly press down the clutch until the rear wheels spin freely... once they spin freely this is the point in which the clutch is released...
For OEM Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel 1"-1.25" AFTER the above point...
For TILTON Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel UP to .5" after the above point...
Originally Posted by rockinbboy
The later Zs were designed with a higher engagement so you dont' have to push the clutch as far. It was done so you spend less time during a shift.
I rarely push the clutch all the way down.
I rarely push the clutch all the way down.

Originally Posted by mdracer76
Not sure you'd really reap any benifit. Its usually smaller diameter, unsprung, or mutiple disc clutches that suffer from overstroke. The Nismo clutch should not suffer from the problem since it is a single disc, sprung hub.
Remeber you also have to disable the Kill switch on the clutch that does not allow the car to start if the clutch is not fully depressed if you put in a pedal stop.
Remeber you also have to disable the Kill switch on the clutch that does not allow the car to start if the clutch is not fully depressed if you put in a pedal stop.
Thanks MD, not going to put one it if there is no benefit to it....appreciate the insight.....
mine is like halfway
i love it! i used to try to clutch all the way to the floor before but i noticed it wouldnt feel smooth
maybe the old owner switch the engagement point i guess
i love it! i used to try to clutch all the way to the floor before but i noticed it wouldnt feel smooth
maybe the old owner switch the engagement point i guess
Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
How to make a pedal stop:
2.5" x 4" piece of sheet metal with 5 holes in it...
1 on each corner and one in the middle...
Weld a nut over the middle hole...
put a nut on a bolt and turn it till it is at the head of the bolt...
thread bolt into center nut so it sticks out...
place on firewall at a location where the bolt will come into contact with the back of the clutch pedal...
make a hole in the firewall for the bolt (IF NEEDED)...
fasten to firewall with self tapping screws / rivets...
DO NOT DRILL OR ANYTHING TO FAR PAST THE FIREWALL!
Done!
How to adjust:
W/ the car OFF... Lift the rear wheels off the ground...
Put car in gear (2nd 3rd doesnt really matter) ((CAR OFF REMEMBER))
Have a buddy try turning the rear wheels (forward)... while the wheels are trying to be turned, slowly press down the clutch until the rear wheels spin freely... once they spin freely this is the point in which the clutch is released...
For OEM Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel 1"-1.25" AFTER the above point...
For TILTON Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel UP to .5" after the above point...
2.5" x 4" piece of sheet metal with 5 holes in it...
1 on each corner and one in the middle...
Weld a nut over the middle hole...
put a nut on a bolt and turn it till it is at the head of the bolt...
thread bolt into center nut so it sticks out...
place on firewall at a location where the bolt will come into contact with the back of the clutch pedal...
make a hole in the firewall for the bolt (IF NEEDED)...
fasten to firewall with self tapping screws / rivets...
DO NOT DRILL OR ANYTHING TO FAR PAST THE FIREWALL!
Done!
How to adjust:
W/ the car OFF... Lift the rear wheels off the ground...
Put car in gear (2nd 3rd doesnt really matter) ((CAR OFF REMEMBER))
Have a buddy try turning the rear wheels (forward)... while the wheels are trying to be turned, slowly press down the clutch until the rear wheels spin freely... once they spin freely this is the point in which the clutch is released...
For OEM Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel 1"-1.25" AFTER the above point...
For TILTON Clutch, set the pedal stop to travel UP to .5" after the above point...
I had a hard time getting a smooth ride out of it before, but after messing around I discovered that pushing it halfway gives me a smooth ride. I guess some other members discovered that also. If I push it all the way down, it jerks pretty hard when I release it. Halfway = almost smooth as silk.
Whats weird is I ask people if its normal to push the clutch half way and they tell me that it should be all the way to the floor or you will damage something.
Is it really okay to be driving like this?
Whats weird is I ask people if its normal to push the clutch half way and they tell me that it should be all the way to the floor or you will damage something.
Is it really okay to be driving like this?
Originally Posted by dkmesa350z
I push my to the floor so I don't **** **** up. If I tried saving time by only depressing the pedal enough to engage the clutch, I would end up tearing stuff up on accident
good topic, i was wondering this too as when i first got my z which is my first manual i was pushing all the way to the floor and would get sloppy shifts. when i figured i could get away with only about 1/2 a push my shifts are hardly recognized, which is how a manual should feel, like an auto but faster.


