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Trans piece broken off welding question ( pics )

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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:36 AM
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Default Trans piece broken off welding question ( pics )

Trans piece broken off welding question ( pics )-trans4.jpg

Trans piece broken off welding question ( pics )-trans5.jpg

can this piece be welded back on? Its a brand new trans, 0 miles, never installed. Also how much you think that might cost?
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:37 AM
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click on pics to enlarge....
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:22 AM
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looks important. lol
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:30 AM
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it will never be as strong as how it was made. personally, i wont take that risk especially it's a part on holding the trans.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:40 AM
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how hard would it be to just change the whole rear extention then? I could just bolt on the one from my original trans its perfectly fine..
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jj350z
how hard would it be to just change the whole rear extention then? I could just bolt on the one from my original trans its perfectly fine..
I think that will be just fine. Just make sure you seal it up well. Also, put a new seal in the end to be sure.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jj350z
how hard would it be to just change the whole rear extention then? I could just bolt on the one from my original trans its perfectly fine..
+1.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:29 AM
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Is that hard to do? When I take off the rear extension are little pieces going to shift around, pop out, etc.. or is it just bolt out switch bolt in?
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by sanf
it will never be as strong as how it was made. personally, i wont take that risk especially it's a part on holding the trans.

umm from my understnading a proper weld is STRONGER than it was previously....
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by teknochild
umm from my understnading a proper weld is STRONGER than it was previously....
+1

if you lived in my area, i would do it for free.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by teknochild
umm from my understnading a proper weld is STRONGER than it was previously....
+1....I had all my exhaust hanger welded back onto the pipe and its as good as new...but the gentleman who welded it for me told me it will be stronger than before
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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Default sort of true - it's weaker alongside

Originally Posted by teknochild
umm from my understnading a proper weld is STRONGER than it was previously....
The heat cycle embrittles the metal. The weld bead is actually thicker than the intact metal it replaces, if done properly and penetrated well - so it's technically "stronger". But the weld isn't what breaks - it's the intact metal around the weld, because it's been made brittle by the heat from the process. There are ways to "heat-treat" the assembly to minimize this, but it's a real concern - especially with aluminum alloys and with cast iron.

Having said that, a good welder could TIG this easily and effectively, taking the right precautions. I wouldn't hesitate to do it myself or use such a part in my car.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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just tig that SOB, if your freaked out add an support or 2 also.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 12:22 PM
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Out of curiosity, how did your new (0 miles) tranny get broken?

Also, supposing you welded it and installed it, then needed dealer service, what would they say/think about a welded hack job? I'd try replacing the part if possible.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 06:04 AM
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thanks everyon e
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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just say that it was broke when you received it and get them to fix it or send you a knew one
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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I bought it with the piece broken off thats why it was half off, its a simple weld, or i can just put the rear extension from my old tranny on.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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Generally welding steel stuff is a good idea, but if you can avoid it, welding high stress parts in aluminum is a bad idea. Steel is USUALLY (at least in A-arms, body parts, etc) used in it's natural state, in other words, it's not heat treated. The same can NOT be said of aluminum, it's ALWAYS used in structural applications in a heat treated (or tempered) state. The yield strength of the aluminum in your tranny case is probabally about 30,000 psi, un heat treated (the annealed state) it's probabally 6000 psi, at best. Guess what, welding any material necessairly removes the heat treat in the area in and around the weld. All the careful alignment of molecules and the grain structure goes away when you melt the part down with a TIG torch.

Replace the part. It souldn't be a big deal, get a mechanic to do it, if you're not comfortable with it.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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Its Cast aluminum and a stress point to boot ---Forget it ---Replace the nose ---section --No big deal

I can chk my book but there is nothing there as far as I know---Take it off, Put another on.

I just chked it --All thats in it is ur parking pawl, a small shaft a dowel pin and a "hair spring" ----Very easy and very self explanitory, switch those new parts to ur old nose extention----take the needle brg from the new to the old and replace the seal on the end. U have to use new bolts--theres 8 or so ---because they are self sealing---torque to 40 ft Lbs

BTW -- a parking pawl is in all Autos and simply the lever that locks the tranny when u put it in park

Last edited by Eazzy; Sep 19, 2006 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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If your old end fits, swap it out and silicone it up. If it doesn't, weld it. It would cost about $40 here.
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