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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Deal Breaker?

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Old 08-24-2003, 11:00 AM
  #21  
neohalo1
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Three months is not going to do you much good as far as improving your score. Your 718 score is very good as is and if you're counting on continued cc payments over the course of a few months to increase your score, I don't think that will carry any affect.
Old 08-24-2003, 11:42 AM
  #22  
350ed
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Check if your company has a credit union.
Mine offers 3.9% up through 60months.
They are the best bet and most large companies have a CU to join.
Old 08-24-2003, 12:52 PM
  #23  
iceman58
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even if your mother co-signs it will not change your apr. They use your score.
Old 08-24-2003, 12:57 PM
  #24  
KPZerone
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Then what's point of co-signing? I thought it would lower the APR..
Old 08-24-2003, 01:03 PM
  #25  
123NissanZ
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Look man,

Im not trying to make you feel bad or feel stupid. My credit score is just below 800, and I am at 6.5 x 72 months.

The frontier I financed 1 year earlier, I got 4.9 % X 60 months

You are really talking about $10.00-$15.00 per month here.

Peoplefirst is offering 5.19 for 72 months. You have to remember the longer the term, the higher the rate. Interest rates are doing nothing but going up. The bottom was several months ago.

This time next year, or even in a few months you will see people with 8% car loans. I just dont think it makes sense to pass up the deal at that rate- which is a GOOD RATE!



Originally posted by bshockley
Yeah, that's the truth. Here's the way I look at it:

I am going to be making a good amount of dough. (Just got hired as Aero Eng. @ Boeing). Figured I can spend the next couple months improving my credit. I mean improving because as of now I have a 718. That's just based off of the credit cards I've had. I don't really know what I need to do to get a better score.

If people are telling me that it won't matter, that in 3 months there is no way I could improve my credit enough to get a better APR let me know. I will go and take the deal tomorrow.

I just feel that if I spent a little time and saved some money to put down on the car, I might be able to raise my credit.
Old 08-24-2003, 02:34 PM
  #26  
iceman58
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The point of co-signing is that someone with good credit history will pay your loan if you default Make any sense to you?
Old 08-24-2003, 02:51 PM
  #27  
KPZerone
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Oh.. I didnt know that. Yeap. That makes perfect sense.
Old 08-24-2003, 03:36 PM
  #28  
gooters
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shop now...credit companies will look at several credit inquiries...even denials as one if they see them in a short timeframe because they know you are shopping for a loan on one item.

also, if you dont find the rate you want you can always wait...but rates should be fairly decent right now with the economy sluggish. BUT, all credir companies have started cracking down lately due to a high number of defaulted loans in the past two years. GL...search the forums to see who others use...I started a thread on this topic about a month ago
Old 08-24-2003, 03:43 PM
  #29  
gooters
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I just finished the thread...I was in your exact position bshock...except a different contractor :P

3 months will not make a big difference...a year WILL. credir companies want to see you in the same address and same job for a year before they bump your credit more.

and having a co-signer WILL lower your rates. I was in a position where I NEEDED a new car. I was in my brand new job out of college for 6 months. I got 60 months @ 6.5% on my own.

I got 60 months @ 3.9% with pops. I went with pops until I hit the year mark in Feb...then will re-apply and assume the entire loan.
Old 08-24-2003, 08:37 PM
  #30  
bshockley
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Wow there sure is alot of differing opinions here. OK, I have had a couple of days to think about it. Being an engineer I am more logical than emotional about decisions, but I really want this car (I am sure you all know what I mean).

Tomorrow morning I am going to try the bank with my mom as a co-signer as see what's up. Even if that falls through, I will most likely go ahead with the 6.79% It's not great, but I have been shopping and it's about as good as it gets for me right now.

Wish me luck.
Old 08-25-2003, 10:22 AM
  #31  
bshockley
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Sooo...

Back came back and said they could do 6.75%. I call the dealer back and tell them I have my own financing and and ready to complete the deal. They say they had another offer after me, but is was 1000 more than mine and they'd be more than willing to sell it to me (since I was first) at the new price. I said no and told them it ain't gonna happen and hung up.

Called another dealer to see if they could get me the car. They'd look into it.

Original dealer calls back and says they'd like to offer the car again at the original price they offered me and really want to do my financing. I todl them, and I quote "The game has changed now." I told them I wanted 31900 out the door and unless they beat my banks apr no deal and that I had already contacted another dealer.

The original dealer manager then calls back and acts like my best friend and says the whole thing has gotten outta hand. And because of what happened he'd like to offer me this: The original price we negotiated 31988 and he'd personally get me 5.95% APR. But he keeps talking about this $199 "docking fee". What the hell is that? I've enver heard of it? Anyone wish to explain or verify or deny?

As of now, I am waiting to hear back about the 5.95% for my original price of 31988 + 199 docking fee.
Old 08-25-2003, 11:00 AM
  #32  
gooters
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$199 docking fee (read: $199 jam you in the @$$ as you walk out the door fee). God I hate car dealerships, they are sooo sleazy. I guess they are just trying to make a buck. Tell this manager that when he can make you the deal WITHOUT the tack on BS then he can call you back. Meanwhile go try to deal with the other dealership.

BTW, without any "docking fee", "carwash fee", "prep fee", stupid "window etch fee", "keyless entry fee", etc. he will STILL be making money off you! screw his BS fees. Nissan gives every Nissan dealership something like $200/vehicle to take the plastic off it and put in floor mats, wash, AND give you gas!!

Edit: and NO FILING FEE/PAPERWORK FEE!

Hrumph...

Last edited by gooters; 08-25-2003 at 11:02 AM.
Old 08-25-2003, 11:48 AM
  #33  
chump
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I didn't have time to read all of the posts, so I don't know if what i'm going to say is a repeat but here it is. I just graduated from college myself, and I have a credit rating of 0. I'm getting 4.5% from nissan, under the recent grad program. If you've graduated within 2 years from the time you buy the car, you should be able to get a Tier 1 rate.

Again sorry if this has already been said, but i'm just trying to pass on some info.
Old 08-25-2003, 12:18 PM
  #34  
marhot
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Default Okay...

Originally posted by bshockley

As of now, I am waiting to hear back about the 5.95% for my original price of 31988 + 199 docking fee.
Tell him you'll take it for $31,789 + 199 docking fee.

Whatever price you agree to, just subtract 199.

gooters is right, the dealer is just trying another way to screw u out another buck.

Good luck
Old 08-25-2003, 06:46 PM
  #35  
bshockley
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Ok, I did it. She is mine.

I got her for 32,768 with an extended 5 year/75,000 mile warranty at 5.45%. I also got the huge *** banner and a bottle of touch up paint.

I LOVE HER.

And, I can't believe how many stares I get. You guys/gals were right.

Pictures to come tomorrow.
Old 08-25-2003, 07:08 PM
  #36  
doofy
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awesome. just curious, what's the tax percentage in KS?
Old 08-25-2003, 07:28 PM
  #37  
bshockley
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Originally posted by doofy
awesome. just curious, what's the tax percentage in KS?
Well, it's probably than MO, but I don't live in Lawrence anymore. I am actually in Independence MO (KC) right now, and soon to be in St. Louis. It looks to be about 6.8% give or take
Old 08-26-2003, 12:19 PM
  #38  
doofy
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crap. oops. sorry. I got my threads mixed up. I thought this was the tread with the walk out price. Did the 32768 include tax already? I'm just trying to see how much I over paid for my car. :P
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