I've heard this is a common problem, however having trouble finding it in searches. 2006 350z Touring Roadster.
Started where I was having trouble getting into gears 1,2,3 (putting the stick into the gate). Third gear wasn't bad, barely noticeable actually, just a little notchy. Going into 2nd was ok but it was slow letting me get into the gate. Starting in first was not bad, but downshifting took forever, I literally had to force it in sometimes (my working parking lot has a steep driveway, so I have to go back into first). I had a friend of mine from work drive it (certified class A tech and years of service management experience) and he said there's definitely an issue. He also said that holding the clutch down for a longer period makes it easier to put in, also double clutching it.

I took it to Nissand and they are claiming it's up to factory spec, however they recommended putting in synthetic gear fluid at my expense (im still warrantied). So after doing that, it's all now worse, even third is now noticeable. I am in contact with the Regional Rep. in North America. Does anyone else have this problem and can give me some advice?

They are asking me to show them another 2006 350z that doesn't have this problem to prove it's not to spec. Anyone on Long Island and near the Amityville Nissan Service Dept willing to help me out?

 

That seems sketchy at best. The dealer says it's up to spec, when clearly it hasn't been doing it all along, or you obviously wouldn't just be complaining now. They're trying to get out of warranty work. Sounds like a synchromesh ring issue.

Regardless, by the time they open the transmission up to rebuild it, it's a pretty penny on nissan's dime that they don't want to spend. Find another dealer???

 

unfortunately that's not the case, I bought the car used at 20k miles. Has 22 now and has been doing it ever since I bought it.
I may try another dealer as a last resort, but I'd really like Nissan North to own up to it and OK the work.

 

I've run into the same problem as you. I also have an oil consumption problem, so if/when they replace the motor, i'l ask them to take a look at the transmission.

 

Slick... Are you saying there is more resistance than you expect or that you are grinding gears? You should not be grinding gears.

FWIW. I have a 2005 Roadster. Going from first to second does demand more on the synchros due to the extra low gearing of 1st gear on the 2005 roadster. It is naturally difficult to downshift from 2nd to 1st unless you are almost at a full stop, but you can still do that by blip throttle downshifting.

2005 Stillen SC Stage III/IV Roadster

 

Like I said, I'm no expert, however if a certified tech is agreeing with me... I'm pretty sure it's not normal. Not to mention I had my friend drive with a Nissan tech at the service dept and he admitted right away that it wasn't normal (w/o my friend saying anything). However his story changed at the end of they day, I'm assuming because management talked to him.

What I'm saying is when I'm driving let's say in 2nd. I approach the driveway (~15mph) and depress the clutch pedal and without releasing attempting to move the shifter into first, it won't go, even putting force behind it won't work. In fact, I tried harder one time and it grinded.

Waiting a full second will allow the gear to go in smooth. If i leave the clutch down and move it around after it moves smooth.

And yes, on the highway when I need to downshift I blip the throttle to raise the revs a bit. However for first gear at the speed I'm going it's not necessary.

 

I also have them checking for oil consumption at another service dept., but I'm already past due to go back (1500 miles) as I'm more worried about the tranny. They told me that my year/VIN doesn't have this problem and almost refused to do it. I'll need to check my oil and see where it's at now with roughly 2k miles.

 

Unfortunately I cannot tell how much resistance you are actually encountering, but it can be significant if you are not at a full stop. As you said, the resistance on your car could be abnormally high, the synchro could be bad.

 

i have similar issues with shifting from 2nd to 1st at a low speed to enter a driveway or whatnot. Sometimes it just doesn't want to enter the gear and at times it will grind if you force it too hard. Then sometimes its smooth. I tap the throttle with the clutch depressed and it seems to help a bit.

 

Transmission fluid will fix a transmission? I didn't know that.

 

I can't, won't, and see no reason to shift from 2nd to 1st at 15mph. I don't go from 2nd to 1st unless I am almost at a complete stop... and my transmission will not let me shift from 2nd to 1st at that speed.

 

Exactly what you said. I practically come to a full stop before releasing the clutch pedal while in first. And according to a certified tech, this is not healthy operation of a 22k mile car (this may be symptoms of something worse in the future).

This morning on my way to work while approaching a stop sign, I pulled out of 3rd gear and attempted to downshift to 2nd and I counted a full 3 seconds while rolling before I could move into the gate. And considering the rpms were under 3k rpm and dropping while I had the clutch pedal depressed, there should not have been any problems getting into that gear. (And yes I roll through the stop sign)

 

if the car is going a few mph you should be able to climb up a steep incline in 2nd, no?

i see you are eastcoast. unless you are hardcore roadracing it on the regular i wouldn't put anything into the transmission except the exact nissan MTF it came with. i learned my lesson the hard way with redline MT-90. when winter came i had a hard time shifting in the morning. other than that, try matchrev double clutching into 1st if you absolutely have to. my dad's old bugeye wrx had that constant problem. double clutching made it easier.

 

Yes you can go up the incline in 2nd, but you'd be wasting gas trying to keep it from stalling at that speed (around 5mph, if that). The driveway is not a huge incline but it has a deep dip in it, therefore I have to slow down and approach it sideways and slowly get the bumper past.

As far as the fluid, let me repeat, I did not change the fluid. The dealership recommended it and I allowed them to do the work (I paid 119 for the labor and synthetic fluid- whatever nissan uses).
No I don't race the car, i baby it all the time. In fact I barely ever go past 4k even on the highway. On the streets it never goes past 3k.
Yes, I can do all your suggestions, and maybe they will work. However, I paid good money for a sports car, not a cheap hyundai. I expect the car to work properly without any special adjustments at 22k miles. At higher mileage it wouldn't be a problem.

 

I had the same deal. Had to bring it in to be serviced.

 

Do you know what they did to fix it (I'm assuming it was fixed)?

 

Dealers have very little incentive to do most warranty work, contrary to popular opinion. They are paid a book rate, and for many services, that does not cover their true costs. A member of ZROC is a service tech at a local dealer (not a Nissan dealer) and wrote an article for our newsletter which tried to explain the difficulties you can have when trying to get warranty service. And ultimately, it is the actual service tech who takes the loss, at least as much as the dealer.On something like this, you need to keep raising hell until they fix it - their suggestion of synthetic oil as a solution is directly contrary to the owners manual and didn't fix the problem anyway (go figure!)

 

Exactly what I thought, no less at my expense. I will be bringing this to Nissan's attention when I call their consumer affairs dept in regards to my case.

 

what kind of fluid did they change it to? i'm just curious especiallly since it was so EXPENSIVE and that didn't smooth out your downshift?

i'm telling ya, these transmissions are a bit sensitive to fluid changes and by design they're tempermental. try helping it out by just slightly tapping the gas pedal when the trans is still in neutral. at that same moment the trans will shift effortless. don't let the rpm drop (maybe 1,200rpm depending on speed). i wouldn't even drive a new car the conventional way. most people would agree that a 2-1 moving downshift is stressful on the trans. if you're doing it everyday, your trans is gonna be toast.

if you're not grinding, then your synchros are probably ok.

 

I wouldn't say it will fix a transmission, but switching to Redline synthetic made my 2nd gear issues (slight grinding and difficult shifting when cold) go away!

So I can understand why someone might try this method first.

But it sounds like the OP has a lot more going on than the 'cold 2nd gear' issues that some of us have.