New MT Driver 1st Gear Shifting
05-13-2009, 09:16 AM
#21
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Why do you need to rev to freaking 2500? wow, you launching the damn vehicle or what? That is one way to wear out your clutch faster.
You shouldn't have to give more than 500 rpm to the idle rpm to get moving.
I can get the car moving with ease without even applying throttle (unless it is an incline).
I try to keep the RPM under 1000 from a stop and go.
05-13-2009, 09:30 AM
#22
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+1
Why do you need to rev to freaking 2500? wow, you launching the damn vehicle or what? That is one way to wear out your clutch faster.
You shouldn't have to give more than 500 rpm to the idle rpm to get moving.
I can get the car moving with ease without even applying throttle (unless it is an incline).
I try to keep the RPM under 1000 from a stop and go.
Why do you need to rev to freaking 2500? wow, you launching the damn vehicle or what? That is one way to wear out your clutch faster.
You shouldn't have to give more than 500 rpm to the idle rpm to get moving.
I can get the car moving with ease without even applying throttle (unless it is an incline).
I try to keep the RPM under 1000 from a stop and go.
05-13-2009, 10:36 AM
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people who think they know how to drive post these things lol, honestly ive gotten my car rolling without gas lol. most people do rev so high because they cant find the sweet spot in the clutch to effectively use it.
05-13-2009, 11:25 AM
#26
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i always rev up between 1000 and 1500 rpm
how is it even possible to rev that high to just get off from a stop...
05-15-2009, 07:44 AM
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05-15-2009, 04:47 PM
#38
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You will never learn to drive a manual tranny reading a book , or sitting at the keyboard.
The only place you will learn is in the driver's seat. Just keep driving, and it will al become second nature.
bill
The only place you will learn is in the driver's seat. Just keep driving, and it will al become second nature.
bill
05-16-2009, 12:43 PM
#39
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Even though the general principle is often mentioned, first gear start with manual is affected by several factors. There's cold/ hot engine & transmission, a/c on/off, passenger weight y/n. a - d below then will be a bit different with these 3 conditions.
Then, there is the acceleration rate;
a) Oft-mentioned no-gas roll-up,
b) bumper2bumper traffic 1rst gear roll & coasts,
c) the regular green-light brisk pace,
d) the 0-60 in 5.3.
There are two points that induce engine/wheel power mis-match: not giving enough gas after first clutch contact, and not continuing to add gas after that point. The first tends toward stall, the second produces smooth but sudden deceleration due initial momentum being braked by reduced rpm as car mass has just been accelerating.
a) does not deal with 2nd point, but does show you where initial clutch grab begins. also, this is not sufficiently fast at green light to ever use unless you're the only car on the road.
b) requires a bit more and stop-go traffic is good practice time to learn to avoid point two as you usually need to get past initial movement up to 10 or 15 mph which is ez soft entry to 2nd.
c) needs the smooth and coordinated gas & clutch synchronization; it's not so much about inital revving as timing of gas before clutch grab then more gas and total clutch release in one non-faltering leg pedaling. the Z is heavy, rpms = power; certainly more than 500 before '2nd point', though over 1000 is going to get unnecessary clutch wear, IMO, but you do need to rapidly feed gas to move the beast and continue w/out trepidation. best mood is to just be annoyed with stoplight concept and the rest can flow.
d) i suppose this is done with 2 gears as 2nd redlines @ 66 w/ HR, but maybe someone else can comment on it, i still take a little less than that just to get out of 1rst after 2k miles.
Then, there is the acceleration rate;
a) Oft-mentioned no-gas roll-up,
b) bumper2bumper traffic 1rst gear roll & coasts,
c) the regular green-light brisk pace,
d) the 0-60 in 5.3.
There are two points that induce engine/wheel power mis-match: not giving enough gas after first clutch contact, and not continuing to add gas after that point. The first tends toward stall, the second produces smooth but sudden deceleration due initial momentum being braked by reduced rpm as car mass has just been accelerating.
a) does not deal with 2nd point, but does show you where initial clutch grab begins. also, this is not sufficiently fast at green light to ever use unless you're the only car on the road.
b) requires a bit more and stop-go traffic is good practice time to learn to avoid point two as you usually need to get past initial movement up to 10 or 15 mph which is ez soft entry to 2nd.
c) needs the smooth and coordinated gas & clutch synchronization; it's not so much about inital revving as timing of gas before clutch grab then more gas and total clutch release in one non-faltering leg pedaling. the Z is heavy, rpms = power; certainly more than 500 before '2nd point', though over 1000 is going to get unnecessary clutch wear, IMO, but you do need to rapidly feed gas to move the beast and continue w/out trepidation. best mood is to just be annoyed with stoplight concept and the rest can flow.
d) i suppose this is done with 2 gears as 2nd redlines @ 66 w/ HR, but maybe someone else can comment on it, i still take a little less than that just to get out of 1rst after 2k miles.
