What have you done for your Z today?
Exactly. I have before and after pics too after i wet sanded, polished, and re-cleared my lights. They looked BRAND new. No scratches or any of that. It really depends if you do it right.
Probably because you didn't re-clear coat them? Or at least apply a protective layer. When you wet sand, you're stripping the factory clear coat off. If you just polish them, then they're going to get yellow again.
Btw, it's way cheaper to wet sand, polish, and re-clear than buying DEPO lights. It cost me like 20 bucks, and I guarantee you would think they were new.
Btw, it's way cheaper to wet sand, polish, and re-clear than buying DEPO lights. It cost me like 20 bucks, and I guarantee you would think they were new.
Last edited by drvqz33; Mar 24, 2015 at 08:15 PM.
+1 on restoration. If you have patience and the right tools/products, there is no reason to replace your OEM housings because they're oxidized.
I purchased my last car for $2650 in 2011, a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE (6-Speed) w/ 129k miles. It was in (what appeared to be to the average buyer) really rough exterior condition. I sold the car last month for $3,800 with 160k+ and barely put any money into it by simply putting some care into the way it looked.
If anyone wants to dispose of their old headlight housings because they're fogged up, I'll gladly take them off your hands
I purchased my last car for $2650 in 2011, a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE (6-Speed) w/ 129k miles. It was in (what appeared to be to the average buyer) really rough exterior condition. I sold the car last month for $3,800 with 160k+ and barely put any money into it by simply putting some care into the way it looked.
If anyone wants to dispose of their old headlight housings because they're fogged up, I'll gladly take them off your hands
Last edited by n0smoke; Mar 24, 2015 at 09:04 PM.
+1 on restoration. If you have patience and the right tools/products, there is no reason to replace your OEM housings because they're oxidized.
I purchased my last car for $2650 in 2011, a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE (6-Speed) w/ 129k miles. It was in (what appeared to be to the average buyer) really rough exterior condition. I sold the car last month for $3,800 with 160k+ and barely put any money into it by simply putting some care into the way it looked.
I purchased my last car for $2650 in 2011, a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE (6-Speed) w/ 129k miles. It was in (what appeared to be to the average buyer) really rough exterior condition. I sold the car last month for $3,800 with 160k+ and barely put any money into it by simply putting some care into the way it looked.
Spending $300 to get rid of oxidized lights... man... that's outrageous. It's on the lines of buying a new car because your ash tray got dirty.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 28,899
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From: Twin Cities, MN
*scratcheschin* Hmmm....
That's amazing. Luckily, my 03 Z doesn't have this problem. Probably because I drive on average less than 5k miles per year.
+1 on restoration. If you have patience and the right tools/products, there is no reason to replace your OEM housings because they're oxidized.
I purchased my last car for $2650 in 2011, a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE (6-Speed) w/ 129k miles. It was in (what appeared to be to the average buyer) really rough exterior condition. I sold the car last month for $3,800 with 160k+ and barely put any money into it by simply putting some care into the way it looked.
I purchased my last car for $2650 in 2011, a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE (6-Speed) w/ 129k miles. It was in (what appeared to be to the average buyer) really rough exterior condition. I sold the car last month for $3,800 with 160k+ and barely put any money into it by simply putting some care into the way it looked.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,287
Likes: 189
From: Eastern NC
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MY350Z.COM
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From: ZdayZ
Been too busy to button her up so she's been sitting since October, so nothing 
This will mean have got to drain the gas, change the oil, and HOPEFULLY the newish redtop battery I bought isnt shot to hell.
Also, newish tires will probably have flat spots. And i cant actually drive it until it's tuned which will mean my tuner will have some nice flat spots to do some 180 pulls on the dyno rofl FML
This will mean have got to drain the gas, change the oil, and HOPEFULLY the newish redtop battery I bought isnt shot to hell.
Also, newish tires will probably have flat spots. And i cant actually drive it until it's tuned which will mean my tuner will have some nice flat spots to do some 180 pulls on the dyno rofl FML
