I know there is a gazillion bazillion trillion threads on winter driving, but I have specifics questions that I cant find answers to.

To start, right now I am forced to drive my 350z 6SP Track Edition in the snow as I have acquired a new job in an area with no public transportation.

Last year, I got caught in the first snow fall with the stock Potenza tires and that was the most scariest driving experience ever in my lifetime.

Anyways, I am considering getting a set of Blizzaks snow tires and my questions is do I start driving from 2nd gear and skip 1st gear in the winter, and how is the grip in the snow compared to the stock which has none? Also, what should I be warned about? I am still shaking and nervous about driving in the snow even with snow tires.

I don't have space or time to get and maintain a winter beater either.

I apologize in advance if these questions were answered in previous threads.

 

get the blizzaks...back in the day when I had an sr20det s13, I got some blizzaks and they were awesome in the snow! (even bought em for my winter-beater later). If you have aftermarket wheels, keep them off and use the blizzaks on your stockers.

 

Sorry not to hijack the thread or anything but from what OP said about starting in 2nd gear, is that okay? Does it cause any serious damage or issues down the road? I've always wished I could just start in 2nd. . Thanks

 

Yes, it's ok to start in 2nd.

 

you can get a beater for the price of 4 blizzaks up here

 

Do you think buying a z was a smart move considering where you live plus its your only mode of transpo. Yes snows help but ground clearance will always be an issue above a certain amount of snow that car aint going no where while other cars will drive away with ease.

 

You won’t have any problem driving the 350Z during the winter. I’ve done this six winter seasons. Here are some considerations.

• Of course you need a dedicated tire/wheel setup. It sounds as though you have done this.
  
  
• Studless snow tires work best in very cold climates since they remain soft and grip well on ice and in snow.
  
  
• If you are in a climate where temperatures hover around freezing during the winter (with just a few very cold days), winter performance tires work well.
  
  
• Starting from a standstill on a frozen roadway in 2nd gear is OK, but I rarely find this necessary. Those Blizzaks you just purchased will grip surprising well even on frozen roadways and in snow. If you are starting on ice, 2nd gear is a good choice. You will know that the gear is wrong if you feel “lugging” or must “slip the clutch.”
  
  
• Your Track model has VDC, and you want to keep this ON. About the only time you turn if OFF is when the TCS component kills forward progress (e.g., driving uphill in snow or on ice when TCS continuously kills your power). If you turn VDC off, be prepared to do some counter-steering to control fish-tailing as you force your way through whatever is impeding your progress.

Here are a couple of pictures showing my car with the winter tire/wheel setup. It “ain’t purdy,” but it works.







The 17x7.5” wheels have a 35 offset that keeps the tires deep inside the wheel well to prevent “sand-blasting” the side of the car (the DOT in my area throws lots of sand down in the winter, and soft studless snow tires with a deep tread load-up the sand and spray it everywhere).

I’m running Dunlop studless snow tires( 225/55-17” all-square), which is about the equivalent of Blizzaks. I have not experienced any problem with this setup, and my car has VDC. I went all-square to allow rotating my winter tires (I wanted to stretch the tire life since it’s no fun buying winter tire replacements).

--Spike

 

Exciting isn't it?

 

Only if you are running summer performance tires in freezing temperatures.

--Spike

 

I see your point, but consider all the costs of a “beater.”

By definition, a “beater” is a car that has been beaten to near to its useful life. That means there are some economy issues. For example, when you buy a beater:

• Do you get 4 new studless snow tires? …Probably not. So there is no savings there.
  
  
• What about the title and tax. You pay extra for the second car. That can get expensive.
  
  
• Insurance costs can be high with a “beater” if it lacks stability control, ABS, side airbags, and other safety equipment. In fact a “beater" probably costs more for liability insurance than the Z covered by both liability and collision insurance.
  
  
• “Beaters” by definition will require more maintenance costs. After all, it’s an older car with many parts that are worn and near requiring replacement.

Buying 4 snow tires is a lot less than maintaining a junk car.

--Spike

 

you can get a reliable winter car for 1-2k and insurance is next to nothing plus it keeps the miles down even on non winter months. Its nice having a second car with trunk space etc etc.

 

That isn’t the case in my experience, and I shop hard for the best insurance rates.

My 1990 Mitsubishi Montero (sans airbags, EBS, and stability control) costs more to insure than my new Jeep Commander and my 350Z (and I’m not carrying collision on the Montero).

And you still pay $$ to buy the right tires for your "beater." Right?

Why not just mount those tires on your Z and save the cost of buying, insuring, and maintaining a "beater?"

--Spike

 

I've spent the last 2 months in Lincoln, NE with a lot of snow on the roads throughout the month of January. I have the Potenza 050 pole positions on my car. I wanted to get another set of OEM rims and put some winter tires on, but didn't have the time or $$ to do so before leaving Dallas. I just took it easy and learned to drive like a granny. All was good as long as I didn't have to stop on any hills. I only slid through one stop sign. I wouldn't recommend keeping OEM type tires on, but it can be done in the right situations. Oh, and regarding the VDC, it is great advice to keep that thing on. I tried to have a bit of fun and turned it off while I was on a straight and empty road. I gave it a little gas and the back end swung out like someone pushed it sideways. After 15 frantic seconds of fishtailing, I turned it back on and counted my lucky stars I didn't catch a curb.

And great advice and setup Spike. Sounds like someone has done their homework.

 

I bought a full set of wheels and Blizzaks from Tirerack a month or so ago and paid $1255 shipped. At the time the Blizzaks were on closeout for $139 a piece. Some sizes were even cheaper.

They are phenomenal in the snow. I was zipping past front-wheel and four-wheel drive cars like it was nothing. Of course I work in KY, so consider the winter driving skills (or lack thereof).

 

Where I live the hills are hellishly steep and in the winter, if we get some snow, I have a hard time in my Z. One of the biggest aids to making it up icy hills is the Z’s limited slip differential. Unfortunately, unlike a good mechanical LSD, the viscous unit in the Z needs a fair amount of wheel-spin to hook up. It’s always seemed to me that the person who calibrated the traction control and the guy who calibrated the LSD were not on the same page. Even on dry roads the traction control kills all engine power before the LSD can engage, preventing wheel spin in the first place.

In the winter, to start up a snowy hill I often have to turn off the traction control switch and spin the wheels quite a bit to engage the LSD. Once the car gets moving up the hill I back off the throttle (to stop spinning the wheels) and turn the traction control back on.

 

you won't have an issue driving in snow...YES when the snow is like a centimeter.

Come over to NJ where we just had like 4 feet and then talk to me about diving the Z....haha

 

You know the threads exist, yet you still refuse to read anything at all.

 

This was my first winter with my NISMO diff and made a hell of a difference. I am running snow tires also, I did find that with the NISMO diff, you had to turn VDC off. Once the diff locks from a standing start and you get rolling, you can switch the VDC on. Just my 2 cents.

 

Pretty sure I would be more worried about the depth of the snow - as mentioned, just not all that much ground clearance and Blizzaks don't help there. I know a guy in Cleveland with Blizzaks on his 350 and he still has occasions where he can't get around. But he has alternative transportation.

 

Winter tires will make a huge difference, be careful though