I know this is not the correct thread, but I am not exactly sure as to what I want to do right now. Here is the situation:

I was in a wreck this weekend with my daily driver. A car pulled out in front of me at an intersection. I hit the brakes but could not stop. I ended up t-boning her. Totaled my car. My mom was in the back seat and was rushed to the hospital because she was having an extremely hard time breathing. However, it turned out to just be a contusion. Basically, everyone was fine, just really sore. We were very blessed.

But now, this has got me thinking. I am in the finishing steps of my newest build. There is a link to it in my sig. I am now debating on parting out my Z and not having to worry about speed and dangers that come with it. I know people will say just be safe and whatnot, but I just don't know.

I want to give a list of all the parts and see if there would be any interest from people in buying them. If you are interested, please PM me.

Here is a list of everything on the car and the prices I would like for each.

The engine is newly assembled. Every single piece has just been taken apart and cleaned and reassembled professionally. It has been put back together by Dynosty (Formerly Injected Performance). It has brand new rings and heads. The heads were purchased brand new.

The motor is a longblock with all of the accesories on it. It is sealed up and ready to be placed into the car.


Engine:
-Injected Performance VQ35 Shortblock
-Injected Performance Billet Main Girdle
-Brian Crower 4.15L stroker Kit which includes BC 4340 billet steel crank (88mm stroke),100mm bore, CP aluminum forged pistons 8.5:1 CR
-Carrillo Rods
-ARP Main Studs
-ACL Bearings
-OEM Full Gasket replacement kit
-Headgasket for increased bore
-Darton M.I.D. sleeves
-ATI Super Damper
-Mishimoto Coolant Hoses
-Fully Balanced and Blueprinted

Valvetrain:
-ARP L19 Headstuds
-Ferrea +0mm intake/exhaust valves
-Ferrea full valvetrain (single springs, spring seat locaters, steel valve locks, etc.)
-BC Stage 2 Cams

I would ask $12,000 for the complete longblock. This motor is capable of handling a lot of power. With the turbo kit I was going to put on it, we were expecting 900+rwhp on e85 on Dynosty's low reading dyno. It made 640rwhp on APS' tiny extreme kit turbos.

-Custom SFR Racing Twin turbo kit:
Precision 67mm Turbos x 2
Upgraded Burns Collector Turbo Manifolds x 2
Upgraded Bell Intercooler
Polished Twin Tial BOVs
Tial 38mm Wastegates x 2
Scavenge Oil Pump
Aluminum Oil Sump for Turbos
Wastegate Dump Tubes

$5,500 for the TT. This turbo kit is massive. The turbos are mid mounted at the end of the full length headers. This kit matched with the motor equals crazy power. The kit just had the turbos sent off the precision to get inspected and to have new seals put in. The hotside and the downpipes were professionally ceramic coated inside and out

-Drop in CJM Fuel tank assembly replacement with dual Walbro 255 pumps and anti-surge tank.
$750. This is brand new and has never been installed.

-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

-Injector Dynamics 2000cc Injectors.
$1200. These injectors are the best on the market right now. They are also brand new. They have been wired to be PnP with the engine.

-Kenne Bell 40 amp Boost a pump for fuel pumps
$180. Has been used but works perfectly.

-Injected Performance High Flow Fuel Rails
$200

-APS 3" True Dual Exhaust
$900

-Cosworth Intake Manifold With CF end Caps (Polished)
$1100. This piece has been professionally polished and has not been installed since the polish.

-Injected Performance Baffled Catch Can (Polished)
$100. As with the catch can, this has been profesionally polished and not installed since.

-ARC Oil Cap (Gold)
$150. This is brand new and has never been installed.

-CF Cooling Shroud
$120

-Polished Throttle Body
$140, professionally polished also.


-Koyo 53mm Racing Radiator
$250


-Injected Performance Solid Motor Mounts
$80

-CF Brake Fluid and Battery Covers

-Custom Colored and Burnt Bolts by BallerBolts.com and Dressupbolts.com (Full Dress up Kit)



-RPS Max Clutch 6 Puck 2700lb
$1800. About 8k miles on it. Head over 700rwhp with no signs of slipping.

-Drive Shaft Shop Pro Axles Stage 2
$800


Suspension:

-Tein MonoFlex Coilovers with EDFC
$1200

-JIC Adjustable Rear Camber Links

-Nismo Front and Rear Sway Bars
$250

Wheels/Brakes:

-StopTech ST40 (4pot, 355mm slotted rotors)
$1200. Only about 3k miles on them. Color is red.

-Volk SF-Winnings (19x9.5+19, 19x10.5+17) with -Michelin Pilot Sport (245/35/19) Front tires and Toyo Proxes r888s (295/35/19) Rear
$2300. Have some curb rash on them and lips could use a repolish. Will include Project Kics Neo Chrome 48 Lug Nuts with the wheels.

Interior:

-CF Look Shift boot with blue stitching

-Personal Neo Eagle Black Leather Steering Wheel with blue stitching (350mm)
-WorksBell Short Hub Dual SRS
-WorksBell Rapfix II Team Yoshioka Blue Quick Release
$450 for all three. No marks on any whatsoever

-Haltech AFR Wideband Sensor Control Module with Dual Output Gauge

-Defi BF Series Gauges (Boost, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Water temp, control unit)
$800 for total package.

-Bride Vorga Japan Racing Seat with CF back
$1000

Exterior:
-Amuse Front Bumper
-Amuse Sideskirts
-Chargespeed Rear with CF insert

Will most likely be sold with the shell or local. Will have fresh new paint on it and be re-fitted before sale.

-Blitz Replica Rear Spoiler with CF underlay by Evo-R



Engine Management:

-Haltech Platinum PnP ECU
$1600. Brand new, never been used before.

Like I said, not sure if right thread, but I just wanted to see what kind of interest is out there before I make a final decision.

Here are some various pics of the items listed.















PT67 turbos vs APS turbo (APS turbos made 640rwhp.....)

 

:O thats a lot of money you put into this build....sorry to hear about your unfortunate incident but glad to hear everyone is ok.

 

Wow, was in near life ending crash in Dec but didnt kick the need, subd for later shopping. Glad u and fam are OK

 

Are you sure you didn't hit your head in that crash?








J/K GLWS.

 

Sad to hear...

Glad you/and family are alright, and GLWS!

 

damn man, sorry to hear. at least your mom is ok.

 

Give it a few weeks. I think you bumped your head harder than you think.

 

Definitely bumped your head....
Ash u r buggin out!

Ill take the Defi's.....

 

If it were me personally, I'd keep it all, and let the crash stay in the back of your head whenever you drive that beast. You know, in case common sense wants to take a back seat the thought of the crash can kick it back to the front. Glad everyone is ok!

 

I'd make an offer on the ARC but seriously speaking... I don't think you should part it for that reason.

 

keep it bro

 

Good to hear you and your mom are ok. I know what you are feeling because when I got T-boned in my 03 Z, I wanted to stop playing with cars. I admit I got spooked so I took a break from driving all together. After a week I realized the accident was not my fault and I was not going to allow an accident to keep me away from driving sports cars.

I think after a while you will come to the same conclusion I did. Hope this helps and good luck.

 

Please don't part with it.

 

hope you don't sell it. but if you do i'm interested in the cf shift boot/blue stitching and the ARC cap. still got the Project Mu bbk?

 

why would a random crash you have no control over have any effect on building your car?

i'm lost at this logic. The car you wrecked wasn't even a performance car. I could maybe see it if you just flipped your built car trying to race and decided racing was too dangerous but a simple accident you can't control.

i've been unconscious so many times from motorcycle racing that i couldn't count. Broke my back and pelvis and spent 18 months learning to walk again from a complete mishap with the engine that i couldn't control. You can't live your life in fear.

 

Sorry to hear about crash, but you have bigger brakes on this car, so stopping wouldn't have been a problem. : )

 

same thing happened to me....A crash is a little traumatizing. It just takes time to get over it then you will miss the crap out of your z. Sleep on it for a while I wouldnt jump to anything.

 

Thats why all my speed and fun happens on the RACETRACK where it belongs. No point of driving a car built like your on the street.

 

The steering wheel set up I would consider.

 

Glad to hear you and the others in the car with you are ok.We all see a bit of sense of what you are dealing with now.But like the members said keep your head up high and leave it behind you.

Your car is truly an inspiration to me.Its a super sick car.All that hard earned money you put in there so far would be a total shame not to finish it and enjoy it.

Give yourself some time and you will be fine.Hopefully the members encouragement will make you decide to keep your car and finish that amazing build.