finally starting to mod my 08 350z any suggestions
05-01-2014, 06:41 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have the base model. When I bought it it was listed as the grand touring model at the time I knew nothing about the z and jumped right on it so I over paid a lil bit.
05-01-2014, 07:16 AM
#23
Registered User
Go with a Fast Intentions full exhaust header back. You will love the sound! www.fastintentions.com . Talk to Tony he is awesome. You will get power across the whole rpm range.
05-01-2014, 07:17 AM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Don't listen to anyone Intakes do make a difference. It might be small and you will most likely not feel it but everything works together when your done with bolt ons and get a tune. To see how my hr responded to mods check out the link below. I recommend the following:
injen cai
4.08 final drive
agency power single exhaust
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5806...line-dyno.html
injen cai
4.08 final drive
agency power single exhaust
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5806...line-dyno.html
05-01-2014, 07:23 AM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
05-01-2014, 07:25 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
05-01-2014, 07:26 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
05-01-2014, 07:30 AM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Don't listen to anyone Intakes do make a difference. It might be small and you will most likely not feel it but everything works together when your done with bolt ons and get a tune. To see how my hr responded to mods check out the link below. I recommend the following:
injen cai
4.08 final drive
agency power single exhaust
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5806...line-dyno.html
injen cai
4.08 final drive
agency power single exhaust
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5806...line-dyno.html
05-01-2014, 07:34 AM
#29
Registered User
Yea dual does look better but with the single you lose weight which also help with performance. I saved about 60 pounds with my set up. top speed test pipes to stillen y pipe to agency single. For every 10 pounds lost that is equivalent to 1 whp gained.
05-01-2014, 07:46 AM
#30
New Member
iTrader: (4)
My 2 cents:
Since you are already going exhaust, make sure it's true dual. I do agree strongly with what ^Kron said about going MD exhaust; you would be glad on that decision the whole time you own the car!
Stillen or Injen dual long tubes OR keep intakes stock on that HR! *keeping intakes stock would save enough $ basically to buy an UpRev standard kit!
UpRev cable/tunes (because of change from stock exhaust/intakes).
Good adjustable coilovers, drop, roll rear fenders if not for now, for later.
Swaybars, endlinks, camber arms, as mentioned above--Suspension.
Light weight wheels; plenty out there, just depends on how much $ you are willing to pay for nice wheels; some are very affordable.
Good luck with it and congrats on buying a great car!
Since you are already going exhaust, make sure it's true dual. I do agree strongly with what ^Kron said about going MD exhaust; you would be glad on that decision the whole time you own the car!
Stillen or Injen dual long tubes OR keep intakes stock on that HR! *keeping intakes stock would save enough $ basically to buy an UpRev standard kit!
UpRev cable/tunes (because of change from stock exhaust/intakes).
Good adjustable coilovers, drop, roll rear fenders if not for now, for later.
Swaybars, endlinks, camber arms, as mentioned above--Suspension.
Light weight wheels; plenty out there, just depends on how much $ you are willing to pay for nice wheels; some are very affordable.
Good luck with it and congrats on buying a great car!
Last edited by BigBlue; 05-01-2014 at 08:01 AM.
05-01-2014, 08:04 AM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
True I just love the dual look. Ill be getting my parts today and will post what I ordered for more opinions shortly
05-01-2014, 08:05 AM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
My 2 cents:
Since you are already going exhaust, make sure it's true dual. I do agree strongly with what ^Kron said about going MD exhaust; you would be glad on that decision the whole time you own the car!
Stillen or Injen dual long tubes OR keep intakes stock on that HR! *keeping intakes stock would save enough $ basically to buy an UpRev standard kit!
UpRev cable/tunes (because of change from stock exhaust/intakes).
Good adjustable coilovers, drop, roll rear fenders if not for now, for later.
Swaybars, endlinks, camber arms, as mentioned above--Suspension.
Light weight wheels; plenty out there, just depends on how much $ you are willing to pay for nice wheels; some are very affordable.
Good luck with it and congrats on buying a great car!
Since you are already going exhaust, make sure it's true dual. I do agree strongly with what ^Kron said about going MD exhaust; you would be glad on that decision the whole time you own the car!
Stillen or Injen dual long tubes OR keep intakes stock on that HR! *keeping intakes stock would save enough $ basically to buy an UpRev standard kit!
UpRev cable/tunes (because of change from stock exhaust/intakes).
Good adjustable coilovers, drop, roll rear fenders if not for now, for later.
Swaybars, endlinks, camber arms, as mentioned above--Suspension.
Light weight wheels; plenty out there, just depends on how much $ you are willing to pay for nice wheels; some are very affordable.
Good luck with it and congrats on buying a great car!
05-01-2014, 08:10 AM
#33
Registered User
My 2 cents:
Since you are already going exhaust, make sure it's true dual. I do agree strongly with what ^Kron said about going MD exhaust; you would be glad on that decision the whole time you own the car!
Stillen or Injen dual long tubes OR keep intakes stock on that HR! *keeping intakes stock would save enough $ basically to buy an UpRev standard kit!
UpRev cable/tunes (because of change from stock exhaust/intakes).
Good adjustable coilovers, drop, roll rear fenders if not for now, for later.
Swaybars, endlinks, camber arms, as mentioned above--Suspension.
Light weight wheels; plenty out there, just depends on how much $ you are willing to pay for nice wheels; some are very affordable.
Good luck with it and congrats on buying a great car!
Since you are already going exhaust, make sure it's true dual. I do agree strongly with what ^Kron said about going MD exhaust; you would be glad on that decision the whole time you own the car!
Stillen or Injen dual long tubes OR keep intakes stock on that HR! *keeping intakes stock would save enough $ basically to buy an UpRev standard kit!
UpRev cable/tunes (because of change from stock exhaust/intakes).
Good adjustable coilovers, drop, roll rear fenders if not for now, for later.
Swaybars, endlinks, camber arms, as mentioned above--Suspension.
Light weight wheels; plenty out there, just depends on how much $ you are willing to pay for nice wheels; some are very affordable.
Good luck with it and congrats on buying a great car!
05-01-2014, 08:28 AM
#34
^^^
HR Base wheels are not light. The 5-spoke, staggered wheels weigh from ~24.4-25.8 lbs.
Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15 offset are only 18.2 lbs., and 18x10.5 +15 are 19.05 lbs. I've seen both staggered and square setups at the track.
If you're looking for weight savings I'd look into them.
HR Base wheels are not light. The 5-spoke, staggered wheels weigh from ~24.4-25.8 lbs.
Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15 offset are only 18.2 lbs., and 18x10.5 +15 are 19.05 lbs. I've seen both staggered and square setups at the track.
If you're looking for weight savings I'd look into them.
Last edited by pyshin; 05-01-2014 at 08:31 AM.
05-01-2014, 08:47 AM
#35
For your limited budget, decide if you want performance, handling, appearance, etc.
Regarding intakes, I'd personally pass on intakes as the OEM HR ones are already most feasible to maintain and still provide u with peak performance benefit. Aftermarket intakes are really only for sound and may even hurt performance.
For exhausts, I would go with Motordyne Shockwave TDX2 for sound + performance. ART Test Pipes if you got extra $.
Any breather bolt on mods will require a tune to optimize your power and correct the car running lean. Your solution is UpRev and that will run you around ~$600-800.
Wheels, whatever you prefer, but most of the good ones are going to cost you ~2-3k for a used set. You can always cheap out and get replicas, and those probably are around $1-1.5k. Expensive wheels sometimes pay off by being larger and lighter. Cheaper wheels are likely to be heavier, which hinders performance/handling. Also take into account of tires. It's going to cost you quite a bit so with your budget I'd pass on wheels. Cool wheels won't look good unless properly lowered. If you have VDC on your car, make sure your rear tires' diameter is within 0-3% taller than the fronts (if I'm not mistaken).
Suspensions will definitely make your drive more enjoyable. Springs are a good start and you can find a set for > $150 used easy. Drop your car too low and you'll need camber kit, which will run you around another $250ish for some SPC kit. If you want to shift your game and go with coilovers, cheaper ones can cost around $1k, but good ones will go up to near $2k and beyond.
Modding can get expensive.
My advice is figure out what you want out of your car, because a lot of times there may be unexpected costs that will come up. Don't cheap out on parts too, because you will regret it later. And if you are keeping the Z for a long time, you may end up swapping to those quality parts anyways; costing you more $ in the long run.
There are tons of things you can do to the car and you didn't bring up audio, but the Z is a fantastic car to fit a double din headunit in there. Check out my outdated blog for some ideas in my sig.
Regarding intakes, I'd personally pass on intakes as the OEM HR ones are already most feasible to maintain and still provide u with peak performance benefit. Aftermarket intakes are really only for sound and may even hurt performance.
For exhausts, I would go with Motordyne Shockwave TDX2 for sound + performance. ART Test Pipes if you got extra $.
Any breather bolt on mods will require a tune to optimize your power and correct the car running lean. Your solution is UpRev and that will run you around ~$600-800.
Wheels, whatever you prefer, but most of the good ones are going to cost you ~2-3k for a used set. You can always cheap out and get replicas, and those probably are around $1-1.5k. Expensive wheels sometimes pay off by being larger and lighter. Cheaper wheels are likely to be heavier, which hinders performance/handling. Also take into account of tires. It's going to cost you quite a bit so with your budget I'd pass on wheels. Cool wheels won't look good unless properly lowered. If you have VDC on your car, make sure your rear tires' diameter is within 0-3% taller than the fronts (if I'm not mistaken).
Suspensions will definitely make your drive more enjoyable. Springs are a good start and you can find a set for > $150 used easy. Drop your car too low and you'll need camber kit, which will run you around another $250ish for some SPC kit. If you want to shift your game and go with coilovers, cheaper ones can cost around $1k, but good ones will go up to near $2k and beyond.
Modding can get expensive.
My advice is figure out what you want out of your car, because a lot of times there may be unexpected costs that will come up. Don't cheap out on parts too, because you will regret it later. And if you are keeping the Z for a long time, you may end up swapping to those quality parts anyways; costing you more $ in the long run.
There are tons of things you can do to the car and you didn't bring up audio, but the Z is a fantastic car to fit a double din headunit in there. Check out my outdated blog for some ideas in my sig.
Last edited by Deteria; 05-01-2014 at 08:50 AM.
05-01-2014, 09:18 AM
#36
Registered User
^^^
HR Base wheels are not light. The 5-spoke, staggered wheels weigh from ~24.4-25.8 lbs.
Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15 offset are only 18.2 lbs., and 18x10.5 +15 are 19.05 lbs. I've seen both staggered and square setups at the track.
If you're looking for weight savings I'd look into them.
HR Base wheels are not light. The 5-spoke, staggered wheels weigh from ~24.4-25.8 lbs.
Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15 offset are only 18.2 lbs., and 18x10.5 +15 are 19.05 lbs. I've seen both staggered and square setups at the track.
If you're looking for weight savings I'd look into them.
I had no idea there were more than one hr wheels. I think I have the regular base model. Wow that's a hugh difference.
05-01-2014, 09:56 AM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Im looking more for a mix of both im happy with the horse power it has so not looking for to much gains looking to stand out from most of the stocl z's around va beach I figured it would be best to start with the minor bolt ons and then proceed to the interior and exterior of the car. Im taking the process slow cause I know how expense modding can be
05-01-2014, 10:05 AM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
05-01-2014, 01:06 PM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ended up going with invidia n1 exhaust for now doing more research on other parts not trying to rush into things and regret my choices thanks for all the suggestions and inputs guys.