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Unfortunately I have not. There was 1 dyno day that cancelled and I had another appointment in town cancel on me so I gave up on baseline #'s and I have downed the car for winter for upgrades. Food for thought tho... After the fuel pump install I turned the boost up a bit to 12-14psi depending on the outside temp. I raced a friend with a heads cam full bolt on LS3 corvette and we were dead even. He pulled when I shifted and I pulled when he shifted. Can't say it was fluke either after 5 races with the same result.
Well things have taken a bit longer than I originally anticipated...Imagine that... But I'm ready to get the motor out rebuild the turbos add some parts do some repairs and get this thing on the dyno!
Well things have taken a bit longer than I originally anticipated...Imagine that... But I'm ready to get the motor out rebuild the turbos add some parts do some repairs and get this thing on the dyno!<img src="https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/1120x2000/80-img_20170307_223240541_e441cd7f99d1b8f129d02f7868f24988b00f1 47e.jpg"/>
Nice work! Is this just preventative maintenance then or did something go wrong?
Ya pretty much. I'm pulling the motor to rebuild and upgrade the 20g's. Car smokes pretty bad in boost. Found quite a bit of oil in the boost pipes and Almost no oil in the catch can. Compression and leak down tests came back good so I'm going to rebuild the turbos before I strap it down on the dyno. I bought the td05 TD06 upgraded rebuild kits and billet compressor wheels. While the motor is out I'm replacing valve covers, adding the Crawford intake plenum, ATI damper, fuel system, plugs, coils, injectors, harness, ECT. It's been cold and snowing here the last few weeks so I'm excited to get going on the car. Also just bought a nx dry kit for high boost IAT control.
That was fun! 2 days of broken knuckles and a broken steering rack line later she's out! Anyone else's Greddy kit only have half the studs/nuts installed? Ordered new studs and nuts. Repaired a crack in the manifold and dropped the manifolds and turbine housings off at a local shop for ceramic coating Tearing the turbos down Yep I'd say I'd was time for an overhaul! Yummy! I look forward to lots of brake cleaner and scrubbing brushes. I checked the cams with a dial indicator and they are stock...Damnit! Ordered JWT C8 272's. This wasn't an expected expense but hey that's what credit cards are for! I did this whole build without paying a single cent in interest and well there goes that.
Ceramic coating turned out excellent hope it helps the cracked manifold stay together. Stock main studs... That's not gonna work either have a set on the way. So after cleaning silicone for 8 straight hrs I hate my life I also hate silicone. And my fingers hurt. I am a technician by trade and I think I'll pay someone to do this next time...jk Tore down and ready for cams and springs. Retorqued head studs for S&G. Torqued to 95 ft lbs. As recommended got about an 1/8th of a turn on all of them. Glad I did that. JWT C8's showed up today! Over night parts from Japan...Well overnight from CA anyway. Thanx JWT for the super fast shipping! Found a finger tight bolt. Glad I'm doing this tear down I can only imagine the sh#t that would've f#cked up had it backed out and got caught in the timing chain. Unfortunately the turbo rebuilds didn't go as planned. I had binding issues in both turbos after tearing them both apart several times to check n make sure they were assembled correctly. Call to Gpop shop and they are sitting on his bench now. If you guys have any turbo needs Jerry at Gpop shop is the man! Very helpful and will answer any and all questions you have. I highly recommend them! Look at that all nice n neat n stuff! The bottle in the background is assembly oil. I used to vape bro so instead of poring that junk in my lungs I'm poring oil in my engine with it...Works great and probably won't kill me anymore...Knock on wood.
2am post deal with it. Did I mention I hate silicone? If not I hate silicone.
since your blowers / headers are off, consider using allen/hex head bolts and not the stud & nut...they are extremely difficult to take off if you need to take them off and I find that on mine they didnt sit right on the greddy.
Have you replaced your diaphrams in your BOV and your Waste Gates?
I up-sized my oil feed lines to 1/4" and added a oil filter pre-turbo ... I blew out my driverside blower due to a clogged oil line.
How in-love are you with the steel(bronze colored) coolant pipe that is directly above the header? If you wanna get creative and change that to a soft pipe it'll really help the install of the passenger side intake pipe.
looks like you have waste gate relocation kit - can we assume you're going to keep it?
Are you replacing the oil pump? Are you replacing the water pump?
the CJM fuel setup uses a 3/8" hose that comes off the fuel basket and connects to the 1/2" hard line...I scraped that piece of hose and installed a 'fuel-rated' 1/2" soft hose to make the feed 1/2" as much as possible ... what fuel pump are you going with? what injectors are you going with?
since your blowers / headers are off, consider using allen/hex head bolts and not the stud & nut...they are extremely difficult to take off if you need to take them off and I find that on mine they didnt sit right on the greddy.
Have you replaced your diaphrams in your BOV and your Waste Gates?
I up-sized my oil feed lines to 1/4" and added a oil filter pre-turbo ... I blew out my driverside blower due to a clogged oil line.
How in-love are you with the steel(bronze colored) coolant pipe that is directly above the header? If you wanna get creative and change that to a soft pipe it'll really help the install of the passenger side intake pipe.
looks like you have waste gate relocation kit - can we assume you're going to keep it?
Are you replacing the oil pump? Are you replacing the water pump?
the CJM fuel setup uses a 3/8" hose that comes off the fuel basket and connects to the 1/2" hard line...I scraped that piece of hose and installed a 'fuel-rated' 1/2" soft hose to make the feed 1/2" as much as possible ... what fuel pump are you going with? what injectors are you going with?
give 'em hell!
Thanx man! Been working my *** off and it feels like I haven't gotten much done. I wanted to have to motor back in the car this weekend but that's not gonna happen. Parts didn't get delivered on time so that puts me a few days behind.
. I thoroughly cleaned the oil feeds and return for the turbos and they were clear of any debris so I'm gonna reuse them. The oil pump and water pump both look brand new or someone did and excellent job of cleaning them so I'm going to run with those as well. By looking at the rest of the components in the timing cover and oil pan the water pump and oil pump would have some kind of brown sludge on them and they don't so I'm not worried about it. The coolant pipe I'm not to worried about I'm gonna run with it as is.
For fuel I ordered the CJM twin 255/450 pump combo which has yet to show up.... I have DW1000CC injectors and I'm going to plumb in an inline fuel lab filter.
The turbosmart wastegates and BOV are pretty new so I'm not going to worry about replacing diaphragms. They are easy enough to get to with the relocation kit in the event of issues.
. For the last few days I've been bleeding money so for now nothing else will get replaced unless it absolutely has to. The Tilton twin disc got sent out for upgraded diaphragm springs and discs. Should be back next week. When I get the turbos and manifolds back on they will not be going on and off so the factory studs n nuts will have to do. I am however replacing every single Allen head bolt on the rest of the turbo kit. They all had lock washers which on anything that heats and cools as much as exhaust parts lock washers are a big no no. If anything you use flat washers and metal self locking nuts or with Allen heads u can run them without any washers. Still have a lot of work to do I'll keep posting updates when I need a break for the grind.
Getting started with the main studs MORE SILICONE AAAHHHHHH!!! FML. Done torqued to 65ft lbs. Did them 1 at a time cleaning threads with brake clean and shop air before inserting the studs with loctite. I'm not saying this is the right way to do main studs not checking clearances but this is how I did it and I'm going to run with it. The seal on the main caps was never broken therefore the bearing clearance should not have changed. Hopefully... Kids don't try this at home... Not the right of doing this for sure. Slightly dangerous but hey it worked. So if it's stupid but it works is it still stupid? Working in the world's smallest 2 car garage my options are limited.
Spring comparrison More go fast goodies Turbos showed up I figured this would be a chance for an awesome power adders pic Cams, springs, and valve seals done Timing set Covers on. I also took this opportunity to change the oil galley seals.
This has been a lot of work and I still have a lot to do. I can't wait to get it done and start tuning!
Just about there. Waiting on the clutch and gaskets for the turbos... My dumbass completely forgot to order turbine housing gaskets... They are surprisingly hard to find. Kinguwana was about the only place online I could find them.
Hopefully next weekend I will have the motor trans back into the car and running. I'm trying to do everything as perfectly right as possible no expense has been spared and every single nut and bolt has been torqued to spec. After the motor is back in I will start installing N2O, fuel system, and wiring the haltech for boost control, nitrous control, wideband, and fuel psi.
Well it's ready to be shoe horned back into the car! Twin disc Clutch showed up today from Tilton I sent it to them to have the diaphragm springs upgraded to GG which should hold 455 ft lbs per disc. These discs are getting upgraded to CERAMETALLIC discs. Man that's close heat wrapped the sh*t out of that coupler Got most of the fuel system installed.
Got the clutch back from Tilton and new disc and fulcrum plate Z1 motor sports poly trans mount installed Fuel pump plumbed I cleaned up the casting on the lower plenum and did some mild porting Motor is back int the car
im having a few problems. First it is throwing a cam sensor code and running like sh*t. I'm going to replace the sensor tonight if that doesn't fix it I'll have to recheck timing for the 509th time. I marked the sprockets and chain when I pulled it apart and lined all the marks back up when I put it back together so I don't see how timing could be off. I will tear into it tonight and try to figure it out. Also have low fuel psi after installing all of the CJM stage 2 return kit. I'm sure it just needs to be adjusted but I have to get the car to idle before I can adjust fuel psi.
I got all the N2O stuff plumbed in and wired I'm using the Haltech for nitrous control so I drew up and schematic for myself so I didn't get confused with the ground side relay latch. Twin fuel pump schematic. I had a couple 12v relay contactors laying around so I'm using them for the pumps instead of typical relays. They should allow for maximum amperage to get to the pumps. I'm using the Haltech to turn on the secondary 450 pump once again the Haltech uses a ground signal to latch the relay and I will use the factory fuel pump relay to control the primary fuel pump contactor. Just need to wire in some diodes and install the pump hanger and it will be good to go. What do you call a humped trunk mat?.... Gap insurance
so I got most of the issues sorted out. Still working on solving the P0373 code issue. It comes and goes. Sometimes the car will start and sometimes it won't. But I drove the car for about 20 miles in the last 2 days and seems to be running ok. I have to re plumb the turbo oil drains another forum member gave me some ideas for that. Mabey a few more days left of little things to do and issues to sort out and it will be ready for the dyno and tuning!
11-14-2016, 07:41 PM
