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I was getting the code p0021 so I changed camshaft sensors, intake timing control valve solenoids VVT, and oil/filter. I am unable to get any further cause the control valves are spraying oil from the ball valve thing near the top. These are brand new, so are the bolts and gaskets. Does anyone know what would cause this? Those appear to be made to let oil come out but only in an emergency and these are non stop spraying.
The ball bearings are there to seal the hole they drilled as it cheaper than using a threaded plug. Not a safety mechanism.
The part is defective so if you can return it. If you want to try and fix it yourself you need to hammer the ball bearing somewhat gently back into the casting. To soft and you won't fix the leak to hard any you might break the part. It's also possible its just bad and trying to reseat the ball bearing just won't work.
The ball bearings are there to seal the hole they drilled as it cheaper than using a threaded plug. Not a safety mechanism.
The part is defective so if you can return it. If you want to try and fix it yourself you need to hammer the ball bearing somewhat gently back into the casting. To soft and you won't fix the leak to hard any you might break the part. It's also possible its just bad and trying to reseat the ball bearing just won't work.
Do I hit it from the outside where oil is spraying or do I take it a part and hit it from the inside? Do you think if I take the new solenoid out of it's casing and put it into the original it would resolve the issue?
Do I hit it from the outside where oil is spraying or do I take it a part and hit it from the inside? Do you think if I take the new solenoid out of it's casing and put it into the original it would resolve the issue?
Hit if from the outside pressing it further into the casting. If you can remove the solenoid without damage and the other casting is clean it probably your better choice.
Best thing to do you be to return it and get a replacement though.
I remember saying in your original post (please help p00021) that it looked like a poorly designed/incorrect vivts.
1. Throw those out or return them if you can
2. Go buy OEM and install
3. Degrease that engine
4. Smile =]
I used the original housings and the aftermarket solenoids to fix the issue for now. I haven't pot enough miles to know if the p0021 code will be gone for good but I should know soon. I definitely learned my lesson buying cheap parts on Amazon.
I also cleaned the engine bay. I haven't put the engine cover on yet. I need to figure out how I'm going to give it a wire tuck. If the code is gone and everything is good I'm going to start polishing the aluminum parts, something I should have done long ago.
Puurty... Great job, Tony. It looks nice and clean now. I personally don't like the engine cover. Not because of aesthetic purposes, but because I have a long daily commute to and from work everyday and frequently pop the hood to check things out, so the engine cover just gets in my way. It went in my recycling bin the second day I had the car.
I also needed an intake that was carb legal so I made one from a trashcan and stamped the mishimoto carb number on a plate that was riveted to the box/can. My intake temp dropped nearly 60F and i can feel so much more power. Here's a pic.
This is finished with rubber hose for insulation. Passed smog and visual inspection no problem With carb number This is without carb number began life as an $8 trashcan
Good job, Tony. Pretty smart idea with the trash can. Btw, how do you know your intake temperature dropped 60 degrees? Did you use a thermometer to measure the inside of your air box and found it was 60 degrees lower than the inside of your engine bay at operating temperature?
I have obdlink, it plugs into the obd2 port and connects to my tablet via Bluetooth. It gives me access to about 250 gauges, freeze frame, diagnostics, trips, and a lot more. I use this to read my intake temperature in real time. I've since insulated the can more and compared against a pop charger, the trashcan takes the win. The cooler air has given me a consistent 6whp in the lower rpm's, I'm using torque and obdlink for those measurements(I know its not the same as a dyno but the algorithm used is nearly spot on).
Here is a pic out the tablet in my car with the gauges running and the can with better insulation. It passed smog, lol.
This is finished with rubber hose for insulation. Passed smog and visual inspection no problem The tablet connects to the obd2 port via Bluetooth, connects to the head unit Bluetooth, the head unit still powers the Bose system, the tablet fits perfectly where the OEM navigation would go, this makes it where i could have waze/maps running with traffic, Pandora, and my gauges at the same time. I definitely recommend this to anyone with an empty space.