creativename

Need help figuring out why I cant seem to get this thing working properly. My radiator was one of the parts replaced after the accident. After everything was buttoned up, I did the whole bleeding process (that I could remember). I put it on my driveway nose up since my driveway is very steep. Took off the cap and filled it up and let it idle to bleed while occasionally making sure the level in the radiator was still good. Didn't overheat while idling, but if you try to drive it around, temp starts creeping up. Tried to bleed it again today, same process but i kept it around 2-3k RPM. Same result. Won't overheat at idle but if you drive it the temp rises. At least I think it isn't overheating at idle. I only let it idle until about the halfway mark on the gauge before I tried to drive it. Also there is no cabin heat whatsoever, not even a wisp of heat. Any ideas on what I need to do? May be unrelated, but I used an automatic radiator from my parts car. This one is manual so i just plugged the cooler ports on the radiator.

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Thermostat.

MicVelo

This ^^^. Think about it, overheating while driving yet no heat inside.... NOTHING is reaching the heater core so no heat to exchange. Why nothing getting to the core? Trace backwards.

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Thermo.

Also if you don't have the non spill radiator kit, you will never fully bleed this annoying cooling system. It's only like $15 on amazon.

Also raising your car super high isn't always the smartest thing. It can actually lead to burning oil while you have it raised or starve your motor due to it all being on one side. If you do raise it only raise it a little. Like wheels off 3" if that.

andybp

had the same problem after an engine swap Probably just trapped air in the system unlikely to be the thermostat took ages to get the air out of mine

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

I'm a former Nissan Dealer tech. It's VERY likely to be the thermostat. I used to swap at least one every few weeks.

andybp

I'm pretty sure water circulates around the engine and through the heater matrix with the thermostat open or closed so the heater should work if it's the thermostat which is why I say it's probably not, I'm trying to be helpful here not disagreeing for the sake of it.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

ffs......go touch the hoses. Is one hot and one cool? If so....thermostat

creativename

Thermostat makes sense. I completely overthought this. I was thinking, head gasket issues, blocked passages, screwed heater core (no leaks though). Just goes to show looking at the simple things can help greatly. Looks like im ordering a thermostat. Yes travlee, i will touch the radiator hoses and check the temps.

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Check back in and tell us if it was thermo or air

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Ill bet on air

Atreyu'z 350

It sounds as if you didn't bleed it properly and there's still air in the system. I mean, you were already unsure about your knowledge on how to bleed the system. So I'd bet on that possibility first before you start buying parts. During your bleeding process, did you open the coolant bleeder near the firewall on the passenger side at all? If not, you're going to want to.


- Start the car, turn heater on high(hot).
- Remove rad cap, overflow cap, bleeder hose cap.
- Top off radiator, fill to 'max' line on reservoir, insert thin funnel in bleeder hose hole and fill with coolant until slightly overflowing.
- Rev engine to between 2500 - 3000 rpm to help circulate coolant for 10 seconds, while feeling for hot air coming from the vents at the same time.
- Top off radiator, put cap ON reservoir, top off bleeder hose with funnel again.
- Put cap ON radiator, make sure bleeder hose is filled with coolant(it should be streaming out a little). If not, top off again and keep revving steadily to 3000 rpm until hot air is coming from the vents.
- After hot air is felt, make sure bleeder hose is still filled with coolant(overflowing slightly) and then put the cap back on.


- If this doesn't work, your thermostat's probably bad.

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Or just spend the $20 for the non spill kit (trust me I'm more stubborn than most and finally did. Wish I did sooner) and just take the rad cap off, fill it 1/4 up and run the engine. Let it do all the work and just sit in the car and feel for heat. You'll get it done in 30 min, instead of 2 hours.

kauai1800

And...check your oil! If it’s low it’ll cause overheating.

creativename

UPDATE: Tried the bleeding, Didn't work, but I figured out the thermostat was in fact bad. Top hose was pretty warm and bottom hose was cold. Swapped it out with an OEM thermostat I got from Nissan, and did the bleeding process again. I also bought a spill free funnel this time. I think I still have air in the system because heat is still ice cold. I did rush it though because it got dark when I finally finished and it didn't help that it was 8°F. So I will be redoing it probably tomorrow.

Oil level is good, just dirty. An oil change is next on the list.

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Yea you're going to have to run it for a good 30 min. Don't fill it over like 1/4 of the bowl. Because it will fill up, leave the fluid on the car after you turn it off. So when the fluid cools it will condense and suck most of the fluid from the fill bowl back in.

Also after about 15 min run the engine at 3k for a good couple min. Again the bowl will probably fill up. But let it run idle and cool down and the coolant will go down some. Then when you shut it off let it sit with the bowl for a good 10 or 15 min. Keep an eye on the bowl still to make sure the fluid doesn't run out and you give it more air.

But a super cold day won't help. Just keep at it.

creativename

SUCCESS! Finally got it bled completely. Took a little over an hour to do, but it worked. Im waiting for it now to cool down and then Im going to drive it to see if this also fixed my overheating issue.