Oh, and the idiot FOREMAN of the Nissan service dept told me I was nuts to install nitrous on an Altima [after telling me the Consult 3 wasn't able to communicate with my used ecm I just bought/installed, but still charged me around $150 for the five minutes of work].

I asked him how long he had been working on cars. He said about 40 years.

I asked him to show me on the f*cking engine where exactly the nitrous was? We walked around to the front of the engine bay, and the idiot pointed to the catch can, fuel pump reg, and fuel gauge.

He was also bitching about my leaving the damned electric motor mounts unplugged [why unplugged, well if they go bad they will take out the ecm, or so several people have said].

This is why I don't trust taking anything to the dealershits as you really don't know if they are competent, or idiots.

Again, they missed the whole thing about the engine running fine in its current configuration for 2 years, with allllllll of that stuff disconnected [ie egr gone, vias gone, hole blocked off, factory $hit trans cooler valve gone, external trans cooler, and filter added, etc.

I knew it was going to be a problem bringing a modded car to the dealershits, but having to get the ecm reprogrammed, what choice did I have?

 

I read through all the posts fairly quickly, but I think I got the jist of everything. So the car does not start, correct? Don't focus on the fact that it seems to just barely fire, that can happen. You said you had no communication with your scanner, did any diagnostic equipment/software communicate with it ? Also this is something I have seen overlooked and a mistake made on more than one occasion, I believe your car should have the same wiring. Are you positive that your crank sensor is plugged into the cooresponding plug ? One of the o2 sensor's share the same exact plug. Main way to confirm is the crank sensor has 3 wires, o2 has 4. If your crank sensor is plugged into a plug with 4 wires then it is wrong. Did you have the maf out ? Is it in backwards ? Sounds dumb but when i did my 6spd swap i did this and after removing the trans 2 more times thinking I somehow installed the flywheel wrong and it wasnt in time with the crank, definitely wasted a lot of time there. If none of those apply then it is most likely the immobilizer. You can purchase Nissan Data Scan 2 software online for like 55-60 bucks and as long as you have a "dumb" obd 2 usb interface cable (most people buy this on ebay for 7 bucks) then you can reprogram your immobilizer yourself. I do mine in less that 5 minutes. I own my own garage and have a brand new Snap On Zeus workstation, it cost me a pretty 15k and it wont even do what that $55-60 software can do. Let me know what you find out or if you have already solved your issue.

Also one last thing. I have a 5.5 gen maxima so this doesnt apply to me but a 6gen maxima and your altima it does apply to. Check the unified amplifier meter. lol what a dumb *** name. google it. you may have change ( pennies and such ) that fell back in there, shorting it out and yes it will keep it from starting. Read what I copy and paste below.Customer Concern:No start. No check engine light, but can communicate with the Engine Control Module (ECM). The security light is on. No communication with the Body Control Module (BCM) and the Intelligent Power Distribution Module (IPDM). Has codes P1610, P1612, P1212, P1564, P0462, U1001, U1000. No turn signals and the cooling fans run all the time with the key on. The fuel gauge doesn't work. The BCM powers and grounds are good. Can only communicate with the ECM, the Antilock Brake System (ABS) and the air bag control units. Checking Controller Area Network (CAN), the scan tool shows ok for all modules for a second and then all go to unknown. The whole CAN system is down. Had to disconnect the battery to get accurate ohm reading on the CAN wires and getting 62 ohms. The CAN voltages at terminals 6 and 14 of the DLC are the issue - 5.0 volts and 1.59 volts. Has CAN type 5.Average Reported Mileage:111051Tests/Procedures:1. Start unplugging all the control units on CAN 5 one at a time and see if one unplugged will return the CAN voltages to normal.

2. This vehicle has issues with coins being set up on the shelf at the bottom of the display screen, and the coins fall through a gap and end up in the unified meter and A/C amplifier, so may want to unplug that first and see if the CAN voltages return to normal.Tech Tips:All of the codes are related to the CAN system being down. The ECM, ABS and air bag control units all have the K-line to them, so they are communicating on the K-line. The CAN voltages at terminals 6 and 14 of the DLC should each have approximately 2.5 volts and add up to about 5.0 volts.Author:Paul KujawaDiagnostic Codes
P0462
P1212
P1564
P1610
P1612
U1000
U1001
Potential Causes

With Service Manual diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
Confirmed Fix Summary

Confirmed Fix

With Service Manual diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures
23 - Replaced/Repaired Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
1 - Replaced Battery
1 - Replaced Engine Control Module (ECM)Confirmed Fix DetailsTechReported Fix Details
Confirmed Fix1AAAMIDATLANTIC2475B
August 10, 20162007 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- Had 2.05v on can bus line at dlc. Disconnected the unified meter and voltage went up to 3v. Found 2 dimes and a shorted circuit board inside box. The unified meter is a white box directly below the navigation screen and can be accessed by removing the AC control head trim.Repaired Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier2Matt Tortorici
November 14, 20162006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- NO START NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT THEFT LIGHT STAYS ON COOLING FAN RUNS ALL THE TIME FUEL GAUGE INOP BLOWER MOTOR INOP CAN COMMUNICATE WITH ECM BUT WITH THE BCM AND IPDM.REPLACE UNIFIED METER.Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier3JOHNSOND22
October 29, 20142006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- As others stated, removed Unified Meter and found a penny, a hole in the module itself, and a shorted hot spot on the printed circuit!! Replaced with a Nissan unit!Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier4Jason Hulsey
May 31, 20162006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- FOUND 3 PENNIES AND A DIME. MAKE SURE TO TAPE THE HOLE IN THE NEW ONE IF NISSAN FORGOT.Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier5Tim Gilthorpe
June 11, 20142006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- Found a dime in the A/C amplifier. Replaced amp and re assembledReplaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier6Ralph Stowell
May 11, 20132006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- unifed meter an a/c amplifier had coins rolling around inside.Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier7Triangle 4
October 3, 20162006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- penny inside no programming requiredReplaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier8WOLLERTAUTO2
September 29, 20142006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- coins in ac amplifier. replaced.Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier9GAYNORA1
March 1, 20122006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- unified meter and a/c amp.Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier10(+) 11-23David Ervin
June 12, 20152006 Nissan Maxima, SE 3.5L, V6, USA *
Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier
- Unit had 3 dimes in it.Replaced Unified Meter And A/C Amplifier

 

No problem with the crank sensor connection as the engine ran fine for over a year.

Also, thanks for posting about the unified meter problem, but I looked, and all my car has is a fan amplifier that connects under the AC/heater blower motor.

Here is a summery of today's event, and 4th ecm [matching keys, immobilizer]

As a last ditch effort I took it to the shop down the road that offered to scan the car for free using their Snap On scanner, and another $$$ scanner.

Nothing, no communication with ANY module on the car including the ecm. So, the shop owner/operator/head mechanic, asked if I would be willing to pull all of the modules on the car except for the ecm, and try to scan again.

He said that sometimes it can be one module bad, and that leaving them all disconnect would sometimes let the scanner see the ecm. Then you plug modules back in, until the scanner is no longer able to see the ecm, then you know which module is giving you problems.

Well, even with everything disconnected there was no communication with the ecm. He said there had to be a broke wire somewhere. I asked/thought out loud, that I while I agreed with him, I just couldn't see how a wire in the harness could just go bad without either someone tampering/working on the wiring loom [for which I could tell nobody had ever worked on the wires in this car before me], or something shorting out for which there is usually melted wiring insulation, and a burning smell [however faint its there].

So we sat around, and talked for a while as nobody there had seen a souped up Altima before today. Someone spoke up, and said he had a buddy with problems like mine, and when they opened one of the fuse boxes under hood , and found a rats nest.

Now that got me thinking. A rat/mouse would explain everything, and I found a nest in the cabin filter about a year ago.

So, when I got home I just decided to pull the whole damned dash, and be done with it. No rat/mouse damage at all, so I'm back to square one, I'm stumped.

I also did the shop manual diagnostics on the CAN buss, and found nothing, everything passed every test. The only thing that was different than what the test called for was the gauge cluster can wires which should have read 55-66 ohms, but instead read 122 ohms. I checked the continuity, and found where they connected, all was good, no broken wires, or bad connection.

 

Well, the shop down the road has the same car doing the same thing as mine [05 Infinity, 3.5l, auto]

Their throttle body was just like mine as in it wasn't responding to the gas pedal, so they, like me, bought a new TB.

That didn't work for them, so someone held the TB open with a screw driver, while someone tried starting the car.

They said that the engine would catch, and run rough, but as they kept manually moving the tb blade the engine finally took over on its on, and ran.

They drove it down the road, and it drove fine, but had a little skip. They brought the car back, and did some readings while it was running, but didn't find anything. Turned the engine off, and locked up for the night.

Came back the next morning, and the engine wouldn't start. My engine will start, and briefly run by spraying starting fluid into the throttle body [held oven with a screwdriver.] It fires, then tries to run, but just for a second.

So, I'm going to town tomorrow, and buy some starting fluid, and see if I can get the engine running enough with the starting fluid until the engine takes over, and runs by its self.

 

Ok so i have to ask this before we go any further. You said the ecm/ immobilizer are from the same car? What vehicle is the body control module from ? The bcm determines if the transponder key matches the immobilizer for a valid match and then sends a signal to the ecm allowing to start the engine. Also if your bcm and ecm dont match they wont communicate on the can bus network. The vin needs to be registered to match between the 2. If you dont have the bcm out of that same vehicle, then you need to go get it. Read your private messages and take some time to contact me. I think I can help you with this car.