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I'm guessing he calling the JDM import for getting an engine. For $500 and another engine, still a good deal. Not like me, $3500 and still need an engine
Bingo. $1200, no warranty after start up but they compression test it in front of you. I'll be sure to pull the pan and do the basics. I'm ordering new valve covers, rear main seal, and pilot bushing from CZP. Anything other maintenance items you all can think of?
check you engine mounts, perfect time to upgrade or replace them. I did the BDE mounts when i installed mine. If you have any idea of doing headers this would be the time as well.
Definitely thinking ahead with the rear main, never know how healthy it is and better to do it while out. Depending on the health of your clutch maybe something else to concider. Most everything else can be done after install fairly easily if something pops up.
I went a few steps further and upgraded my trans to the OA and replaced my driveshaft that i found had bad joints when i pulled it. Have health issues so try to only touch certain areas of the car once to make things easier on me.
check you engine mounts, perfect time to upgrade or replace them. I did the BDE mounts when i installed mine. If you have any idea of doing headers this would be the time as well.
Definitely thinking ahead with the rear main, never know how healthy it is and better to do it while out. Depending on the health of your clutch maybe something else to concider. Most everything else can be done after install fairly easily if something pops up.
I went a few steps further and upgraded my trans to the OA and replaced my driveshaft that i found had bad joints when i pulled it. Have health issues so try to only touch certain areas of the car once to make things easier on me.
good call on the engine mounts. I'll be sure to check them. Current blown engine actually has borla headers on it. Probably gonna swap them out for stockers as this will be just be a street car. I'll likely put them on the track car next time I get the chance to pull the motor.
Sooooo I just noticed the transmission fill plug... 10mm doesn't grab at all. The previous owner just told me that he stripped it trying to remove it (clearly tried heat) and then put a self tapper through it to seal it
Any suggestions??
Last edited by Kevin Skene; Nov 5, 2019 at 08:02 AM.
My thoughts (before either of these, prep/soak it with a penetrating oil):
1) is there a slightly larger Torx bit or triple-square bit that would "bite" and you could hammer in there? Then, use an impact wrench to break it loose...but use it at a low pressure for a long time (many small "hits" of the impact wrench) to try and get it to start turning. Slowly increase the pressure in steps until it starts to move, always watching to make sure the bit isn't stripping in the opening.
2) cut a notch at the outermost edge of the bolt head and tap at it in a counter-clockwise direction with a flat-edged tool?
Go old school.... drill, tap for left threaded bolt (obviously smaller than the original shank with sufficient size to handle the torque you'll be applying), install LH bolt and keep tightening (now going left) using a big breaker bar. Best not to use an impact (unless that's the only option) as you may strip the OG threads. Once out, replace with standard RH thread plug if the original threads are still intact.
Some penetrating lube and a fat pipe extractor! Took it out no problem! Got the transmission off and found this flywheel..which isn't the stock one? It had a clutch disk and pressure plate stamped "Exedy" not sure the Nissan had exedy stamped on theirs from the factory.
Either way, ordering a new stock clutch and pressure plate now.
Last edited by Kevin Skene; Nov 5, 2019 at 02:44 PM.
I was perusing YouTube and found that the flywheel has to be positioned correctly so that the crank shaft position sensor reads correctly and not out of wack. How is that done?
Was it me? Cause I did that my first time. When you don't know it needs to be aligned, the dowel pins seem unimportant!
ooooh I don't know....I would be hard pressed to find it again. Did you post a video about not being able to start your car after an engine swap? if so post the link and I'll see if that was the one. LOL
Threw a CZP basic clutch on it. Ready to get this thing back together! Also..taking a look at the plenum, i saw one is “1” and the other is “2”. Any known difference between the 2?
Last edited by Kevin Skene; Nov 8, 2019 at 08:19 PM.
10mm doesn't grab at all. The previous owner just told me that he stripped it trying to remove it (clearly tried heat) and then put a self tapper through it to seal it 
