Yea, I don't understand why you'd spend 1/3rd of your budget on a driveshaft … and I would source one from a Z (if possible). I have both a 5AT and 6MT in my garage if you want to buy one for much less and/or if you need measurements - feel free to PM me.

Nope, put me in that bucket...although, I am not 'anti' E-85 but it doesn't make sense for me and my application and I think people give it more credit than it deserves. I also think people go E85 without the right measures in place and then bend rods, detonate, jeopardize their engine oil, etc and blame the engine - when in reality you tuned on E85 bc you wanted to see pretty dyno numbers but you bought E60 bc the gas station sucks at inventory/quality control and now you blame the engine for sucking.

if it was me … for $3k I would find a simple turbo kit. I did that rear-mount kit for my buddy and for around $2500 (which included injectors and tuning, he already had an uprev license) he picked up about 120hp/100ft-lbs. You'll never accomplish this with bolt-on and a drive shaft swap.

Starting to feel like a dreamer thread...

 

Some solid advice in here. I'll chime in with my $.02 as a current G35 revup owner. As far as your whp goal, I'll think you'll get there with your current mods with the addition of ART pipes. If not, you may be able to squeeze some more ponies out of your revup with an Admin intake and the NWP 75mm throttle body. As you probably know, not a lot of people do headers since it's not worth the trouble to most, but if you're up to the task, then go for it.

You've also got a solid list of supporting modifications so it sounds like it will be a nice build for what you want to do. In for results!

 

I did all the research for the diffs since next year that's my only planned mod. I spoke with OSG. If you use their fluid you should really NEVER need new plates. Their fluid has some crazy specs and is about $250 for a fill but they say that's half the magic of their differential units

 

I thought about getting a tune and all the bolt on mods... but the amount of money you put into a NA car and the HP you get out is not worth the monetary value.

Going Forced Induction is really the only way to make big power but then the reliability is down.

 

I think my goals and plans are realistic. The 350z carbon fiber driveshaft does not fit on the G35 because the G35 is longer. I don't want to go turbo or supercharger until I get a second daily car. I also want to build my engine with strong internals and make sure my car can handle the power boost that comes with FI because when the time comes for FI, I am going all in. Doesn't make sense to just throw in FI and have my car blow up soon after or some other part of the car breaking because it couldn't handle the power. I know I wont get huge gains with bolt-ons and a driveshaft but that is what I want to do for now. The driveshaft will free up power loss from the drive-train, improve acceleration, and make my car more fun to drive. Its not just for numbers.



Thanks for the advise, I have read about the Admin intake and NWP throttle body and decided I don't need that extra little horsepower bump, I have seen some dynos show a low end horsepower and toque loss due to the bigger intake and throttle body. I plan to post a my dyno numbers up just so other people can see what I got from the mods I have. I always like to see other people dyno graphs just to get ideas. Like, I said I don't care much about the numbers just want the car to feel awesome, right now my G35 feels great and that's before I do these last final steps. Putting in the ART pipes and tune alone will really make all the mods come alive.



That sounds great, do you know how many miles they recommend for each diff fluid change?

 

I'm not trying to say that you are like this, but why do some people say to never do any bolt-ons and just go straight for FI? Wouldn't everyone want a nice catback exhaust, plenum spacer, MREV2, oil cooler, clutch upgrade, lighter stronger driveshaft, test pipes or hfc... to go along with the FI. I know those mods combined wont give you the gains of FI, but it would make your car be able to use the full potential of the FI.

At least for me, I see all the mods I am doing now will benefit me when I build the engine internals and throw in the supercharger. Not only will my previous mods help me put down a little more power with the supercharger, I wont worry about the engine oil overheating or breaking my carbon fiber driveshaft and will make the FI more reliable. Just my opinion.

 

100k miles on the fluid for street use. 50k if dedicated track car

 

Take the 3k and just get the OSG diff $1500, the nismo diff cover for the heat ($180),and the fluid ($250). Power doesn't matter if you can't get it to the ground. This is why BMWs feel so fast with so little power. Every last bit of power is used. The use of the power is far more important than the power itself. For a street car going back to softer springs will actually net you waaaayyyyy more grip and therfore useful power than any of these mods and all it costs are some used springs off ebay from a stock Z

 

That sounds really good. Thanks for the advise, I already have a Z1 diff cover so that should be good. I am definitely contemplating on getting the OSG diff over the carbon fiber drive shaft.

 

I wouldn't get a clutch type diff for the street, the hell with that. Get a Z1 diff, quieter, maintenance free and you save yourself $500.

 

I guess anti-E85 was a bit brash, I'm against converting a car meant to run on gas, with gas only components to run E85. They rarely run right, if it's a car built from the ground up for it then sure. Plus wasting more fuel to make a few more HP isn't my thing, I'll run on strictly 100 octane before I'd do that.

 

Nope. I have a single turbo 6psi, factory exhaust, factor internals, conservative tune, no cooler, no clutch upgrade. Was the best mod for the money. 60whp + 100ft lbs of torque increase for about $2k.
No 350z engine has ever blown with the power ratings I'm running and I run a 12 sec quarter on the cheapest street tires I could buy.
Going on about 5 years and I beat the hell out of it when it's driven.

 

Your limiting factor of FI isn't the aforementioned exhaust, intake, cooler, clutch, driveshaft, etc … it's the internals of the engine … you can have the nicest of everything mentioned above but a stock block will only hold 400 to 425hp …

and therefore:

I agree with this …

I did that rear-mount turbo on a buddy's car … he is up 100hp / 100ft-lbs for around $2k on an otherwise stock engine … because the price point and the output we have a handful of friends that want the same kit on their car.

 

Get the OSG diff. This is a mod you WILL feel. OSGs aren't noisy like other, poorer, clutch type diffs. I've had clutch and helical. Helical is unpredictable when the rear wheels both lose grip. A clutch type is much more predictable. This is why every drift car has clutch or a welded diff.

 

Lack of grip? Not here lol

 

Tell me more about this rear mount turbo set up!! Please!!!!!

 

shoot me a private message -

 

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