Hey everyone,

I'm coming over from G35Driver to get some of your opinions. I bought a stock 2006 6MT Infiniti G35 Coupe (Revup Engine) a year ago and have been building it to my liking. My goal is to make my car a fun and reliable daily that I can take to the track every so often for autocross and drifting. I actually have my first autocross event in 4 days. I am currently planning to stay NA for a while since this is my daily and a reliable turbo or supercharger costs a bunch of money. So far I am happy with the mods I have installed, car feels great, and I am now planning my final mods before my first tune.

I am looking for input from you guys on any suggestions or tips on my future mods. I plan to put these mods on before I go get a tune, I live in Florida but I am thinking about driving up (9 hours one way) to Z1 Motorsports for a tune because Z1 is awesome. I'm not looking for big numbers, I think 270-280 WHP is reasonable for my setup but I just want my car to feel alive. Let me know what you think, thanks!

Current plan for next mods and tune:
* Stock HR headers - I am going to remove my stock manifolds to install Z1 poly motor mounts and want to do a cheap header upgrade ($100)
* HR Motordyne ART pipes
* Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
* Z1 Motorsports Dyno Tune

Current Mods:
* Injen Cold Air Intake
* BC BR True Coilovers
* Aodhan Wheels: F19x9.5+15with 255/35 & R19x11+15 with 285/35
* Motordyne MREV2 Lower Intake Manifold
* Motordyne 5/16th Iso Thermal Plenum Spacer
* Motordyne TDX2 Shockwave Catback Exhaust
* Whiteline Lower Control Arm and Compression Rod Bushings
* Kinetix Camber Kit Front and Rear
* Akebono Big Brake Kit
* Z1 Brake Master Cylinder Brace
* Z1 Poly Transmission Mount
* Z1 25row Oil Cooler
* Z1 Mid Weight Flywheel, Clutch, and Pressure Plate
* Z1 Diff Upgrade: Poly Bushings, Upgraded Diff Cover, Diff Brace
* ISR Long SS Clutch Line
* Powergrid Adjustable Endlinks
* Hotchkis Adjustable Sway Bars
* Koyo Aluminum Radiator

 

How much money do you want to spend? and how much money do you want to spend before you turbo/supercharge?

You have all the bolt-on already...headers wont do much and it wont be worth the cash nor the time to install. The ART test pipes would be a good mod to do and then go tune …

 

I'm trying not to go over another $3000 in mods including the tune. But my main thing is getting mods that are worth it. Regarding the headers, I know there isn't much improvement over the stock DE manifolds but there is definitely some gains switching to HR headers. I need to move my stock manifolds out of the way for the motor mounts so I want to install the HR header at the same time. I don't care how much work it is since I will be doing it myself.

HR Headers $100
Carbon Fiber Driveshaft $1000
ART Pipes - Used or new $400 to $600
Tune $850 to $1000

That puts me at $2350 to $2700 which is fine with me. I just wanted to know if there were any more important mods to do before the tune.

 

Headers aren't hard to install, so if you're just going to a set of hr, very cheap too.
I followed this guide when I did my ppe longtubes:



BTW, I'd get a proper diff if you don't have one over the Z driveshaft.

 

You shouldn't need to remove the headers to change engine mounts out, but if you do and you aren't using cats just go for long tube headers. I also second the recommendation of a better diff but it may put you out of your budget. It's future proof mod tho. One thing to consider is what kind of FI would want to do in the future? If the answer is turbo, leave your exhaust alone, do the mounts, diff and tune. Otherwise it's just wasting money, if you supercharge you can do the exhaust stuff since you can keep all of it.

 

Honestly, I think you're wasting 3,000 dollars. None of that stuff is going to net you any power you will be able to feel. Especially 1k for a carbon fiber driveshaft. You'll never feel that, save your money. Either A) trade in the car for a faster car or B) spend $250 on a cheap exhaust just for the sound and spend the other $2750 on vacations to Costa Rica, Aruba, hiking in Arizona, and spend the last $200 on a party with free booze for your friends

 

I have seen that same video before and the work involved doesn’t look too bad, I already found someone that will sell me a used set of HR headers for $100. I have not thought about the upgraded diff. I definitely need to do some research, but I always thought I would just wait until my diff started to go bad.

 

I tried to remove the motor mounts already without removing the header and ended up stripping one of the nuts. Now I am forced to remove the entire motor mount bracket to take off the oem engine mount. The reason I don’t want long tubes is mostly due to sound and money for the gains. I believe the longtubes won’t give enough gains for me to justify putting them in over the HR headers and ART pipes plus they will be loud for a daily. Also, I am planning for a supercharger when the time comes, but that is years away. I am going to look into the diff upgrade though. Thanks.


I don’t think it’s a waste. I will feel a difference, the ART pipes and HR headers will finish the intake and exhaust flow. Right now, my weak spot is the cats since they are the most restrictive part of my airflow. I want the carbon fiber driveshaft so I can have better acceleration and to get rid of the 2 piece heavy oem driveshaft. Also, I know it’s cheaper to just buy a faster car but I want to drive a G35 that’s why I bought it. I don’t want to spend $250 on a cheap exhaust to sound and feel like a lawnmower.

 

I guarantee you the long tubes will make more gains than HR manifolds and ART pipes but I feel you on the sound. I really don't think the HR manifolds will be worth it but it's up to you. The sound of actual headers is nice too.

 

I understand what your saying and I know the nice gains that come from longtubes. I just think for my current position I should just do the ART pipes. I spoke with Tony from Motordyne and he said I could test fit his G37 long tube headers on my G35 and then I could buy them for a discounted price if they fit. I really wanted to do it but I decided not to for now. Down the line I can always change my exhaust set up.

 

Yup totally get it, would be nice to hop on that offer! I'm just trying to give you perspective since I've had 2 intake manifold setups, 5 different intake setups, and recently bought 2 sets of cats. Not gonna be like others and tell you how to spend your money but changing setup frequently is a big loss of money. Now I have several parts I can't even sell lol.

 

Since. you're going FI in the years to come, and you are going to get tuned, have you thought about possibly switching to E85? You just need $200 for OEM GTR fuel injectors and a tune, then you're set. OEM GTR is 550cc which is lowest you should go for E85 but for N/A it's perfect.

Lots of benefits from that if you have access to an ethanol pump.

Isn't $1K for a carbon fiber driveshaft a lot? Must be custom made for G? Would be nice to just buy one off a salvaged Z and swap it in, but I do recall G running a little longer...

 

I must be the only person who is anti-E85, I like my gasoline and will stay on gasoline forever lol.

 

Go Earth-Friendly. Support the Farmers! Ha

 

You've already popped the supporting bits around it, you may as well actually change the guts of the thing to something that will put the power down properly.

 

I try to get all my mods so that I dont have to upgrade them later like you are saying. I did a bunch of research on longtubes and have heard a G35 with longtubes in person and hated it, so I am just going to go with the small HR header upgrade and ART pipes. Once this car becomes a real full race car then I wont care much about sound. Hopefully by then, I could just sell my ART pipes and get some nice longtubes to go with the supercharger. Thanks for the help.



I have done some research about E85 and it seems like everyone recommends it for FI not NA. I have seen some dyno graphs and I know there are gains with both but if I were to go E85, I would want bigger injectors like 1000cc so I wouldn't have to replace them again when I go FI. Plus if I wanted to keep it reliable, I would want a flex fuel sensor, maybe new fuel rails, new lines, and new fuel pump that can handle the E85. So I have opted out of E85 for NA, but I will definitely go for it when I build the engine and go supercharger.

For the driveshaft, I know $1k is a little much but I think its worth it. You cannot take a 350z carbon fiber driveshaft and put it on the G35 because of the size difference. The G35 carbon fiber driveshaft is custom made. There are aluminum 1 piece driveshafts for the G35 for around $500 but I have heard they make noise and some people had issues with them. I have asked people that actually have the carbon fiber one on their G35's and they say it helps alot. The carbon fiber one is super strong and actually suppresses noise and vibrations since its made of fibers. Also if the carbon fiber one breaks, it does not destroy your car and lastly, carbon fiber is cool



That is true, I just didn't think my VLSD was that bad. To be fair I have not gone to the track yet so I cant say for sure and this is my first manual and rwd car so I cant say that I have driven a true LSD to compare with. Does anyone have any recommendations on LSD's? Like which ones are made to last and handle the power. If I am going to upgrade my diff I for sure want one that will be able to handle the supercharger when the time comes.

 

If you have the money, OSG.
If you don't, I have Kaaz 1.5way SuperQ (it's still a little bit clunky/noisy but you can arrange the clutch plates to lessen the locking %).

It makes a difference on the street too, not just track.
Have a look at some reviews on them (Z1 have several vids), the stock VLSD struggles.

 

I am doing some reading now from old forum posts but so far everyone says to go OSG if you have the money. I am still figuring it out but with the OSG, people are saying that you have to rebuild it after a certain number of miles/track days? It does look beautiful though...
https://www.forgedperformance.com/st...roductid=20821

 

Rebuilds are probably 100k miles !
With my Kaaz unit, IF you do happen to think or feel that it needs rebuilding, you just buy the new plates (not expensive), and swap them over.
Kaaz has some vids showing you how to do this too. I'd presume the same goes for OSG.
Just ensure you change the oil when it states to (in my case 3k miles).

 

https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...t-p-10365.html

Half the price of CF. Same effect