Adjustable rear control arms. Which type?
#1
Adjustable rear control arms. Which type?
Which type of arms do you guys recommend? I see there are straight arms, arms with a slight bend in them. There are arms with a rubber bushing and arms with a pillow ball in them. What do you recommend?
Attached are a few pics of a couple of the different types.
Attached are a few pics of a couple of the different types.
#2
I've got the Z1 rear camber arms with solid/'race' version bushings, nice build quality. Havent had any issues with them and was easy to align the rear. No increased harshness/ noise from what I can feel.
If you go that route, make sure to eliminate the eccentric bolts, since you will now adjust camber from the arm itself.
If you go that route, make sure to eliminate the eccentric bolts, since you will now adjust camber from the arm itself.
#4
New Member
voodoo13 is nice as well.
Z1 is the cheapest but great product- can go rubber or full race bearing
voodoo13- very nice for the price
spl- top of the line, by far the nicest
Personally using a combination of spl and voodoo13 due to budget constraints. If you have a tight budget cheapest i would go would be z1
Z1 is the cheapest but great product- can go rubber or full race bearing
voodoo13- very nice for the price
spl- top of the line, by far the nicest
Personally using a combination of spl and voodoo13 due to budget constraints. If you have a tight budget cheapest i would go would be z1
#6
The rear toe is adjusted by the eccentric toe bolts connected to the subframe via the stock non-adjustable toe arm.
Without lowering you shouldn't need an aftermarket set of toe bolts. However, once lowered by a certain height, you would need to do this to adjust toe back to factory specifications. These aftermarket bolts give increased adjustment due to widening the eccentric bolt holes on the subframe
You may also see 'adjustable toe arms' as a probable solution for toe adjustment. But this is not recommended without foregoing the rear spring buckets, and using a true-coilover suspension. I'm sure you can search up a more detailed explanation as to why, on here.
Without lowering you shouldn't need an aftermarket set of toe bolts. However, once lowered by a certain height, you would need to do this to adjust toe back to factory specifications. These aftermarket bolts give increased adjustment due to widening the eccentric bolt holes on the subframe
You may also see 'adjustable toe arms' as a probable solution for toe adjustment. But this is not recommended without foregoing the rear spring buckets, and using a true-coilover suspension. I'm sure you can search up a more detailed explanation as to why, on here.
#7
New Member
If you buy the camber arms, you don't need to use the eccentric factory bolts. These factor bolts are known to move over time which is why many use lock out bolts and adjust the camber via arm instead. The arms give you more adjustment. Depending on how low you are you may need higher deflecting ofset bolts for your toe. Several companies make these, in order to use them you will have to grind the "pill" hole wider with the template they come with for more adjustment.
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#9
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The Godspeed pillowball versions wear out quick. The heim is just low quality
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